Originally Posted by TRBenj
That $250 quote you got on the shaft doesnt include the coupler, does it? The $300-350 for the dual taper does. I have not found a new price on a single taper shaft + coupler that was lower than the dual taper system when using the appropriate discounts. Really, its a no brainer.
Again, with grooving on the shaft, I would not run it as-is. I would not invest a dime in trying to fix it. Just replace it, or risk ruining a day on the water, along with losing your prop, if it breaks.
Good job on getting the strut lined up (I assume you lined it up to the point where the shaft spun freely and was not sagging under its own weight?). Sometimes it takes a bit of coercion to get it there.
My price on the shaft was using my original coupler, so thats mainly where the savings comes from.
As for the shaft, we are talking about a few thousandths of run-out where it rides on the bushings. It sits pretty snug in the strut. Is that really that bad? I have ruled out trying to fix this one, its either runable or being replaced. Its obviously taken many years to get to this point and running this way for quite a while.
As for your input on the strut alignment, I want to make sure we're on the same page so I get it right. My strut alignment was done with the shaft not coupled to the trans. I positioned it so that it rides as close to center as possible in the log and plan to align the motor/trans to where the shaft rides free and centered in the strut. This seemed to make the most sense to me since the log was the only good reference point I had for my alignment considering the motor, trans, and strut were all off.
Also, when I had the trans out the shaft would easily pop out by pushing forward out of the strut and then pulling it out of the log. Now it can only go back and it binds against the rudder when it goes that way. Am I missing something here or is there an easy way to get it out? It was the same way before my manipulation of the strut.