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Old 03-14-2013, 08:04 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
Well, may be heading to Alaska for the next 2 years. Not taking the boat for obvious reasons. I can layup the boat in my shop where it sits in the winter for about 8 months anyway, so it dry and protected, but a couple years is a different story.
Couple things I'm planning in addition to everything required to winterize normally (already done) are as follows:
Block up trailer on frame to keep the weight off the axles and tires (never done this before, but usually end up moving the boat once or twice in the offseason for some reason).
Fog the cylinders. (Again, never done in the past for a winter layup, but probably will do for 2 year layup.)
Pull the batteries. (And put them in my truck. OE batteries are 7yrs old in the truck anyway and hate to trash a couple high dollar Odyssey batteries and dont want them sitting that long unattended on the maintainer.)
Fuel? This is the big question. Typically I just run it low, Seafoam it and call it good for the winter, never had any trouble with that. But 2 years, closer to 3 yrs maybe adding in this current off season, is different. I'm sure the fuel pump "should" stay wet, but what ever, that's an easy cheap replacement if when it craps out. Drain the tank? How to get all the fuel out?
What about the engine/fuel rail? Run it out of gas? What's best with regards to this?
If I was close to someone I trusted I'd rather it get run a few times each summer, but not possible here.

Any other suggestions?
I would probably run it very low and buy a cheap fuel pump from Napa or somewhere to evacuate the tank completely, or to the point that a few shop towels can blot up the rest. The fuel lines and rails should angle downward when the boat is level, to removing the fuel line(s) to let the fuel drain to a container near the tank might work. If you want to make sure, maybe compressed air can be blown in at the Shrader valve. If the fuel can't drain into the tank when the lines are connected, maybe low pressure air can be used while cranking the engine to clear out anything past the Shrader valve.

I would also disconnect the exhaust hoses from the manifolds and use rubber caps that seal with a hose clamp, rather than a plastic bag- they're cheap and harder for a critter to chew through. LTR? I would get a container of Damp-Rid and place it inside of the flame arrester and cover that well, so damp air can't get into the cylinders and cause corrosion on the areas the fogging oil misses.

Why the move- are you going on the lam?
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