I agree that rebuilding these transmissions is unlikely to be the equivalent of rocket surgery... pretty sure the guys Ive had rebuild mine arent members of Mensa (I could be wrong!).
My point was that it seems experience counts for a lot on these things. Ive seen many smart guys f it up. The price difference between buying the components yourself and paying for a professional rebuild is not very much (I pay $600-700 for my rebuilds and Im pretty sure the OP is in the same ballpark). The guys who do this for a living have a bunch of cores and other hard parts lying around so if it turns out your pump is bad, they'll throw a good one in (usually without an extra charge) rather than charge you full retail for a new one. They also tend to know which part kits are higher quality and which small adjustments to make, as theyre usually warrantied and they dont want them coming back. Just something to think about.
Originally Posted by Kyle
Get the tranny back in and hooked up. If you have not fooled with any adjustments on the mounts then I bet you will start alignment in somewhat of a good ballpark figure. Get the mounts tightened to the stringer and tranny ready to roll. Start the boat and see if the tranny shifts correctly. After verifying correct tranny rebuild then fool with the strut.
If something freaky happened when you rebuilt the tranny and it has to be taken out again then the strut steps and pre alignment was all done for no reason and will have to be done again.
I think we disagree again here. There is no need to install the tranny before doing the first half of the alignment, as it is completely independent of powertrain location.
1. Align strut to the log
2. Align powertrain to the shaft
Both halves require you to feel for the spot where the shaft rotates freely in the bore of the strut, and align the components to that point. It is definitely a LOT easier to do the first half of the alignment with no powertrain in the boat whatsoever, if thats an option. Definitely no need to have the tranny in place either way.
Regarding repairing the shaft, that sounds like a fool's errand to me. Not sure what it would cost to repair, but I bet the difference in price between the repair and a new ARE ($380 for a 1-1/8" from SkiDIM) is less than the cost of a new prop... which is exactly what you'd be buying if the shaft breaks. Shafts can and do break- Ive seen it. Especially considering the fact that youve got the torque of a 1.5 reduction tranny twisting it, mated to a big frickin prop. Theres a reason MC went to the 1-1/8" shaft, remember.