Thread: confirm
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2013, 11:02 PM
Flatwaterfooter Flatwaterfooter is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2006 PS 197
Location: NH
Posts: 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBoatN View Post
I'm curious why you did not just dry block the MCX?

I have an MCX and dry block it myself for winterizing. I would add that you flip the ignition over a couple of times after draining the block and risers, then proceed to the hoses. Also, I've found that the hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the CATs (mine is a 2010 with CATs) will have a little water in them so they need drained as well as the hose running to the water pump - you said you drained all hoses so you covered that as well. It also helps to shift the engine around a little to get all the water out; do this by either driving around on the trailer up and down some hills (best) or raise and lower the trailer jack a few times. Since you antifreezed after dry block I would think you will be OK. I too will add that I'm not a mechanic and this is just an opinion...
Was told to dry block the LT-1 because of the aluminum. Run the run antifreeze in the mcx to help prevent rust. Maybe wrong maybe right just going with what I have read and heard.
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