Attached is the set of instructions I like to use. They were originally posted by someone else on this forum but I forget which thread I dug them out of - credit goes to the original poster. Both seem to address the procedure from the direct drive point of view. So you have to translate a bit to v-drive.
So referring to the attachment in this post "first part is to make certain that the engine is parallel and co-linear with the strut", I like to think of as aligning the shaft coupling to the transmission coupling in the up-down-left-right to make the bolt holes align - this is the best way I can describe it. Another way to think if it is you are setting the engine so that when you mate the couplings you are not pulling the shaft in any direction. During this part you are moving the part of the engine (transmission mounts) that is closest to the couplings.
During the "Second Part" of the procedure you are making the surfaces of the couplings "co-linear" and you are adjusting the mounts (engine block mounts) furthest away from the couplings.
Adjusting the up-down is easy. Adjusting left-right is more difficult. A lot of times the engine just wants to move back. So I have a wood clamp that I trimmed down so that it will work in the engine compartments on the motor mounts. I use the clamp such that it is on the bolt on the mount attached to the hull; the other end is on the bracket attached to the engine. The clamp is not able to move the engine but rather keeps it from moving back. Then when I bump the engine with the 2x2 it moves right along. Also, during the second part of the alignment process and wanting to move the engine in the horizontal direction, I only loosen 3 of the 4 mounts one one time so that I'm pivoting the engine.
Others have posted that they have used come-alongs to move the engine. I've also used ratcheting straps but they work best on the transmission mounts. I also put marks on "slide bars" of the mounts using a sharpie - this gives you a reference so you know how much you moved the engine when bumping it with the 2x2.
With practice I've found it easy to do.