Poured concrete typically is more costly for the diy contractor. Mainly cost of formwork combined with access to place the concrete. Unless it's a level pad that you can drive the mixer truck around you pretty much are relegated to pumping the concrete which is costly.
Now combine the cost of pumping and you now need to have enough forms to do the whole basement and garage at once or pumping costs go crazy.
At $3-4/sf/mo form rental (what formwork outfits charge home owners for crappy old forms), the cost goes up pretty quick.
To mediate those costs and still do a poured basement, last house I built, I scheduled the excavation work to coincide with pour days and used the excavator (bucket) to place the concrete. Ended up costing me about 1.5hrs of excavator time per pour, 3 pours. Still less than the cost to pump the whole thing at once. I poured about 2/3 of the bsmt ftgs and walkout ftgs and walls chute dump by leaving a ramp into the basement from the front. Tore the ramp out then did the rest by bucket.
For formwork, I bought enough BB plywood to do about 1/3 of the walls. Took good care of the plywood, then re-used about 80% of the plywood as sub flooring. Since it wasn't t&g plywood I cross sheeted with 1/2" OSB at less than $10/sheet. Ended up with 1-1/4" of flooring for barely any more $ than t&g plywood and since alot of the main level was tile I negated the need for cement board underlayment under the tile.
And I rented a couple barrels of form clamps from a local guy I met at the bar for 2 cases of cheap beer!
If I hadn't jumped thru all those hoops, block walls would have been more economical.
'06 X2 MCX
"I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN