Originally Posted by JMann
Is there anyway to tell if you have a collapsed hose without removing them?
did you order 3" hose from Skidim about $17 per foot, how any feet did you need?
Also for the cooling trident hoses, I agree I like the blue. Do they sell molded hoses or did they bend enough for your needs? I have a 91 also if you have part numbers please PM me.
Most of the time a collapsed exhaust hose will sound "different" to some degree. It also will exhibit a soft spot when doing a visual or a hands-on inspection. In my last case, one of my banks was overheating to the touch. Water was going into the one collapsed end and it was not open on the other, thus creating a pocket inside of the hose for hot water to backwash into the riser, restricting waterflow to say (guess) to less than 25 - 50%.
Look on Skidim for the soft-walled hose at $17.99/ foot. Soft hose is much easier to work with and most I have ever replaced had seen service life upwards of 20 + years.
Skidim does not sell the Trident hose. Theire small bore hose comes with a white background and black lettering. The Trident is a bit more attractive, but it's hose on an engine. Like a teal platform. It's a machine. The small bore hose are flexible, nothing molded.
You will not need molded hose for the riser to exhaust hose. Molded hose is for the water pump to the thermostat housing on the Indmar. PCM engines have the straight piece with a j-tube (much nicer) but Indmar was too lazy and short-sided to move the alternator enough to use the j-tube configuration (easy for winterizing). Not enough room to swap over to the PCM configuration (already tried) without moving the alternator (not willing).
If I PM you, then no one else will have that information. You can find the hose here ==> http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MPI200-3000
part number 30505. While you're there, order two riser gaskets, 8 hex
head fasteners for the risers, and just remove the risers for ease of installation, then reinstall with new hardware. It's a half day job considering the time to clean the mating surfaces for the new gasket on each. No need to use any sealant on the gaskets. Put anti-seize compound on the hose connections to the riser and the exhaust and they will not stick. I use dish washing soap for a pre-fit for ease of slipping on and off until you get the angle of the cut correct. Soft wall cuts very easy. Don't get carried away with a box knife when fitting.
You'll have to measure the hose before hand. My measurements will not be the same as yours. Again, easy to do... Pull the rear seat, the fuel cell, and the center floor section (which will require the engine cover to come with it). Measure all of the hoses and replace.
While you're there, order two riser drain plugs and replace them as well. Do not... listen to me... do not over tighten. Don't even tighten at all until spring when you get water back in it to tighten ONLY until the leak stops. A 1/2" drive socket ratchet will do the trick.
And while you're there, order new brass drain plugs for the block and get rid of the fancy drain c0ck gadgets.
And while you're there, order the molded hose for the other above described connection (as a spare) unless you have a PCM engine (don't recall which is in a 91).
And truthully, while I was there, I'd replace the rear hoses from exhaust to transom. That's the easy part.
And while you're there with the center floor section out, give the rudder grease zerk a shot of grease.
And for my OCD, I'd also order a new mechanical fuel pump for the Friday afternoon that the pump goes out and you have big plans on Sat and Sun. and all parts places are closed. Auto parts will not have what you're looking for that Sat morning. Been there too many times. I keep a spare. Happens everytime like that. A fuel pump takes about 15 minutes or less to install.