Originally Posted by Tristarboarder
^ I see the obvious Perko, but what is the brand/make/model of the battery isolator on the bottom there? I think I need one right? currently I have two batteries (1 cranking, 1 deep cycle) and 1 perko.
Blue Seas isolator. If I were to do this again, I'd forgo the Perko. It's an added step (at the end of the process) that is not necessary. Go back and read about Diesel's setup and the lone isolation switch wired to the ignition of which he used. That is truly all one needs, but it's each to their own...
Your Perko is doing what you tell it to do in a manual selection manner (if I am not mistaken). The isolation switch will work according to your ignition switch commands if you wire it properly, no need for the Perko. The isolation will open and close as directed by 'on' and 'accessory' positions of the ignition switch.
The Perko I have basically over rides the isolation with an 'off' position for disconnecting both batteries (I use battery monitors , one for each battery in the off position), the next position is 'on' for obvious operations, and thirdly (probably the only benefit of the Perko) is to combine both batteries in some scenario where both batteries may need to be used in parallel for cranking. Otherwise, the single isolation switch will work fine.
I think the important underlying aspect of the dual battery system is to also upgrade the alternator to something of 100 amps so the alternator can work easier while maintaining two batteries. That will give you the life expectancy of the alternator in lieu of it (at 50 amps) having to work overtime on two batteries; also the need to put in a heavier alternator cable to starter. It's an endless money pit...