Running about 3700W of amps, has any body used these?
I'm curious if anybody here has experience with Lifeline 8D batteries? I'm considering having 2 of these hooked up on a separate bank to power my system.
Lifeline Battery GPL-8DA
Amp. Hrs 255
Thanks for your input!
No, but I would love to hear your list of amps! 3700w is a plethora...
I cant imagine needing 3700 watts of amps. Youre probably going to need a new alternator also.
I'm isolating the battery bank completely from the alternator and the main electrical system...the battery bank is strictly for the stereo...hence the 300lbs of batteries. I will shore charge since I have power at my hoist. My expert math tells me this will give me roughly 400 minutes of play time at a louder volume than would be needed.
2 x 600W MHD 6600's = 1,200W (these come with the boat)
1 x HD750/1
1 x HD1200/1
1 x M200
So 3,350 W total...my math was off the first time around, oops! Anyway if anybody has used these let me know if you have any opinions one what or another.
I don't think you are too far off, but real world can be different than calculations and both amps and speakers make a significant difference.
I run approx. 3300w on 5 Kinetik 2400 batteries - 110ah @ 20a each.
3 RF Power T600 for my highs - 2 WS 485, 4 bullet HP 6.5
1 RF Power T1500 for subs - 2 Kicker L7 15"
I can play about 120 min at 80% then notice the lower voltage dropping full power to the subs.
We have similar:
battery bank rating 550ah w Kinetiks vs 510ah Lifelines
similar total amp output
Things working against me include:
A/B amps with lower efficiency
more battery cells
Unknown - sub size. I can tell you the two 15" L7 consume SIGNIFICANTLY more power than 4 Kicker 10" CompVR on the same T1500 amp. (They are similar magnitudes louder)
Being generous on the greater efficiency of JL amps and assuming you have smaller ish subs, I would guess a useable play time of 200 minutes at similar 80% volume. This means you will realistically probably get 250-300 minutes total play time since usually you will not tie up and turn it to 80%. Volume will ramp up over an hour or two and if you are smart, taper off when you start to feel things weaken.
Fewer large battery cells will yield better discharge results. Thus a pair of 8d's should be as good as my 5. Even though on paper the Kinetik bank appears stronger.
You might also consider a pair of 6v which will yield 12v series. Bonus, they can be space saving if you have the height, depending on installation. See Lifeline's lineup - http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/marinedeepcycle.php
LifeLine are bad azz, top of the line, but you better treat them right or it will be a waste of $$$.
Trojan wet cells can offer similar performance for a significant savings, easier to maintain and charge.
Deep discharge whether intentional due to extended playing or accidental will significantly shorten the life. Hey, it happens....I would rather buy the Trojans twice with $$$ to spare. Its not like we are on an ocean voyage where failure could be catastrophic.
If you really want to play all day on the Holiday weekends or just treat your batteries better - Install a large power supply from IOTA or Kinetik. These can handle most stereo play and still charge the batteries if you have a power source on the water like an extension cord to a cruiser or genny running in the bow. Try that with a standard battery charger and see how many burn up...
I run a 90A Iota and Honda2k. The party don't stop!
Added bonus, of the H2k - I can run a crock pot of pork shoulder for the best on water, bbq pulled pork sandwiches and the party goes into the night!
Thank you for the great response! So a couple more pieces of info...yes all the amps will be the class D so they will be a bit more efficient than the A/B's.
Sub wise I am running a single JL 13W7 in a ported box...that is what the 1200/1 amp is for.
So question would be on the Trojan batteries...are you saying to go with the Trojan version of the 8D's? What do you mean that they would be less maintenance or easier to treat right vs. the Lifeline? They are about $200/each cheaper to go with the Trojans.
Anyway, I appreciate the info, you sound like somebody who party's like I do!
Yes, after considerable debate...I ordered the boat with the (4) JL cans. I thought long and hard about going with (4) Wetsound Rev 10's. I really like how those absolutely crank...my only very very slight complaint is that to me...and this is very subjective...they sound slightly more "tinny" if that is even a word. It is not they they are bad at all, just slightly different that the JL 7.7's.
The other thing that sold me on sticking with JL's is that there is an X45 on my lake that has the same cans, but with 200W to each of the speakers. NIGHT AND DAY difference from how the factory powers these. JL's are great, just underpowered...That's why I'm solving that part of the equation.
Also, being able to control the zones for the tower vs. in boat and sub on the new Fusion controller is going to be a huge improvement.
I went from 4 7.7s on 150w to 4 pro 80s at 175w each. I have to agree that the JLs sound more full, but there is no questioning the absolute madness of the rev 10s and their performance. Im ready to hear these new JL 8inch ones that came out.
My friend has 2 Rev 10's and 2 Rev 8's on his X15....ummm nothing short of amazing. I really had a hard time not doing the Wetsounds. When it came down to it, I negotiated a fairly respectable deal on the new boat, and with going with the black JL cans vs. the billet aluminum from MC, it was dramatically more cost effective than going the wetsounds route. Not that cost was the driver, but having heard the 7.7's with 200W going to each, for me it was more than good enough, plus the sound would be matched to the in boat speakers. Something 98 people out of 100 could not perceive on my friends boat, but I can. I could live with it since I do think the Rev10's are better overall, but I believe I will be happy with the JL's
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