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Footin 12-31-2013 04:29 PM

New Ballast System
I am starting to map out my custom ballast system I will be installing in my 2007 Maristar 200VRS.

I will be installing 3 pumps feed from 3 thru hull pick ups (drain and fill below water line) with the X2 bow sac and TBD sized sac in the rear lockers. I have not decided on rear sac as of yet. I have a lot of room because there are not ballast tanks now so it will be 455, 600, 720 OR 750'S. I am looking forward to drilling 6 holes in my new toy.


As I was looking at different wiring options and I came across this:

I think this would give me all I need, the switches (gauges will not work with bags) harness to the fuse panel, relays, harness to switches and harness to pumps...AM I CORRECT????

CantRepeat 01-02-2014 05:26 AM

That's a great way to start. To me, it looks like the only thing that is missing this the connecter at the end of the pump run. It's just a dual pin deutsch connector.

You would need 3 of these to make the pig tail that would run to the pump.

I would think you could just zip tie up the gauge pig tails behind the side panel. Of course, as you said, they will not work.

The big issue with this knowing the difference change years. 06 and newer will be relays and the 07 and later will be timers, which you do not want in your case.

Good luck with your up grade.

You might find this post useful.

CantRepeat 01-02-2014 05:46 AM

I can't tel if that kit comes with the this cable or not.

It looks like the one that might run from the relays to the switch panel.

Looking at your linked kit it does appear to that cable.

bturner2 01-02-2014 08:35 AM

Last summer they had the same kits without the gauges which in your case would have been even better but this looks like a great solution for you.

To be truthful my gauges are not accurate at all and are a very general indication of water level. They rarely show empty if they've been filled that day and the true indication of full is when you hear the water coming out of the overflow.

Footin 01-02-2014 08:44 AM

I still might just drill my current plate and install 3 of the toggle switches:

Then run 12 or 14 gauge wire back to the pumps and 3 separate fuses power wires to the main hot terminal without using relays.

This would be much less expensive and not very difficult.

CantRepeat 01-03-2014 01:02 AM

Then get some.

bturner2 01-03-2014 10:52 AM

Going direct is certainly an option but as you state you should be fusing each circuit. The reason for going with relays is for a low current to control a much larger current path. When you start adding up the cost for tinned wire, switches, circuit breakers and connectors that $230 may start looking cheap let alone the time to lay it all out.

I am on board with using the existing panel and forgoing the non functional gauges but I'd probably just pull them out of the supplied panel in that kit.

bturner2 01-03-2014 10:56 AM

Another thought is that a lot of the boats started coming pre wired for all the options. The power and breakers may already be in the panel and a connector sitting there. You may be able to tap into this or if you go with the kit just plug it in.

Rossterman 01-03-2014 12:22 PM

I was able to find a factory loom on ebay and this turned out much cheaper then trying to build my own for my ballast project. As stated by others, the connectors can be purchased to complete a factory looking install. Our 2001 didn't have any existing wiring but the harness had connection points that were correct length to connect to power blocks under the dash. The looms appear to be very well made and have a very heavy corrugated cover to prevent wear.

Footin 01-03-2014 06:44 PM

I am still thinking about ordering the kit, I just wish I could tell if it comes with everything I need.

I have never wired with relays before, does it lay out like this: main hot lug behind dash panel to black relay breaker box to switches to pumps?

If I knew the kit was complete, I would order it.

Here are some better pictures from ebay:

I am not sure on this one.

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