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-   -   2013 X55 Sound System (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=58434)

2013X55 12-16-2013 12:47 PM

2013 X55 Sound System
 
Just picked up a 2013 X55 and am trying to learn more about the sound system setup...

Everything is JL (4 tower speakers, small sub (I think its an 8"), then I think 6 components inside the boat). Head unit is the clarion without the bluetooth. There are 2 JL 600x4 Amps (I think) pushing everything.

It gets loud and is very clear, however I've got a couple of things I'd like to figure out and am hoping someone can help.

First, what sort of sub is this? In my old boat (2001 Malibu 25LSV) i added a sound system to it, and I think i either had a 10" or 12" that was LOUD and would really shake when it hit. This sound system although clear and loud...has very little bass. In fact, it doesnt even seem like the sub hits very hard.

I've looked on the head unit and there's no adjustment for the sub...only bass, which I dont want to turn up that much because all that does is crank up the bass on the speakers...which is not good because they'll eventually blow out if I've got that cranked to the max.

Has anyone looked into this and determined if there are some adjustments that need to be made, or is this sound system just underwhelming off the factory line? I would expect nothing but the best and top notch with a boat at this price level...

ol1970 12-16-2013 03:32 PM

Hey there, congrats on the purchase! I understand 100% where you are coming from, if you read a few posts that I've made you'll understand what I'm doing on my new 2014 X Star that I pick up next month. Essentially the sub is a free air JL 10" unit powered by I believe 200W. Yep, it does not do much...especially when you are used to "REAL" bass.

My advice, cut bait...leave the factory system exactly as is and add a separate ported sub. I suggest the following if you want unbelievable bass that is more than enough: JL 13W7 in a ported box powered by a JL 1200/1 HD amp. Done...you will smile, make sure you get a separate level knob for the sub. I'm going a little crazier and upping the power to all the in boat speakers in mine to 200W to get the full potential from the speakers.

Good luck!

2013X55 12-16-2013 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol1970 (Post 998458)
Hey there, congrats on the purchase! I understand 100% where you are coming from, if you read a few posts that I've made you'll understand what I'm doing on my new 2014 X Star that I pick up next month. Essentially the sub is a free air JL 10" unit powered by I believe 200W. Yep, it does not do much...especially when you are used to "REAL" bass.

My advice, cut bait...leave the factory system exactly as is and add a separate ported sub. I suggest the following if you want unbelievable bass that is more than enough: JL 13W7 in a ported box powered by a JL 1200/1 HD amp. Done...you will smile, make sure you get a separate level knob for the sub. I'm going a little crazier and upping the power to all the in boat speakers in mine to 200W to get the full potential from the speakers.

Good luck!

Appreciate the reply. Any idea where you would mount this? I don't want to blow my eardrums (which I know a W7 is MORE than capable of doing) I want to be as minimally invasive as possible if/when i go this route.

Secondly, can the amp(s) be adjusted at all to get a little more performance out of the existing sub? Would replacing the head unit with a separate sub control help?

On the old boat we had, there were 2 tower speakers, 6 components in the boat and the sub...all being pushed by a 1000w JL amp...it sounded great...that's all im trying to reproduce.

MLA 12-16-2013 09:01 PM

In the head-unit menu, look for the "non-fade" level adjustment. This is likely the output that is going to the sub chnls of the amp.

2013X55 12-16-2013 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MLA (Post 998568)
In the head-unit menu, look for the "non-fade" level adjustment. This is likely the output that is going to the sub chnls of the amp.

yep, saw that in there...i'll have to get back in there and take a look at that. I dont remember there being an adjustment for it, but perhaps i missed something. is there any adjustment on the amp i can make?

MLA 12-17-2013 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2013X55 (Post 998604)
yep, saw that in there...i'll have to get back in there and take a look at that. I dont remember there being an adjustment for it, but perhaps i missed something. is there any adjustment on the amp i can make?

The amp's gain setting will impact the subs output, but only up to the point of being set to optimal. Its not a volume knob and should not be used as such. So if it is set on the conservative side, going up a little will increase the sub output. The bass-boss-boost setting and cross-over point will also impact the subs performance. Also, the settings for the in-boats. Dialing those back, will bring up the sub a little.

If that sub is getting 200W rms, then thats respectable power for it. It would take a lot more power to make a real difference, probably more then the sub will like. So you need to investigate a new sub/amp combo.

2013X55 12-17-2013 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MLA (Post 998631)
The amp's gain setting will impact the subs output, but only up to the point of being set to optimal. Its not a volume knob and should not be used as such. So if it is set on the conservative side, going up a little will increase the sub output. The bass-boss-boost setting and cross-over point will also impact the subs performance. Also, the settings for the in-boats. Dialing those back, will bring up the sub a little.

What do you mean above?

If that sub is getting 200W rms, then thats respectable power for it. It would take a lot more power to make a real difference, probably more then the sub will like. So you need to investigate a new sub/amp combo.

Right, you set the gain and leave it alone and when the volume is raised/lowered...it will rise and fall to some degree. I think that it SHOULD be getting 200W rms right now but isnt. I didnt get a chance to look the amps over really well, but given that there are 6 speakers in the boat, 4 on the tower and then the sub tells me each speaker has a channel and then the last 2 channels are bridged (I hope) to run the sub. So, I need to make sure it is indeed bridged and then also check that the crossover is set correctly. Given how little is coming out of it right now, I think there certainly some room for improvement with what I've got before I go adding anything. I had an 8" sub in my truck running on 150 rms that hit harder than this...so i think i just need to mess with settings.

craig3972 12-17-2013 11:32 AM

I believe you have a JL MIB10W5 (10" marine grade, infinite baffle, W5 sub). If you can put a sealed box in behind it in the original position and give it 250W to 375w it will produce for you. This way you dont have to give up much storage space for a large ported sub box. I am running two of these subs in this configuration (375wrms each) I have ran both the M10IBW5 and M10W5 (non infinite baffle) and find very little difference between them.

ol1970 12-17-2013 11:46 AM

So I lived with the 10" free air sub for a couple years in my boat before upgrading. It does sound very nice for a factory system...but it is kind of like once you get a car with heated seats...you can never go back to living without it. Yes a 13W7 will be obnoxiously too much bass for the majority out there, and it is a little pricey. You could add 1 more 10" free air right next to the one in you boat if there is room...but to me that would sort of be like kissing your sister.

craig3972 12-17-2013 12:13 PM

I also run 2 13W6's with 1200wrms to each, they are not direct radiating cause I didnt want to cut my boat up. The two little M10W5 in sealed boxes with 375wrms each out perform the 13's. The 13's just shake the boat and dont produce as much sound in my install.


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