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-   -   89 prostar 190.. winterization (need a pic please) (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57940)

89mastercraft 10-23-2013 04:49 PM

89 prostar 190.. winterization (need a pic please)
 
I hate to start a topic because there are already so many, but i don't fully understand this process..

I have a 89 prostar 190 and I have open the valves on both sides of the block... drained the water and I pulled the plugs from the manifolds and drained the water from both of them as well

I see people making custom buckets and hooking them up to what appears the water pump..

Why do you have to modify the bucket? Couldn't I just fill a bucket up with marine antifreeze and use a hose to suck it through?

Could someone PLEASE help me out and show me exactly which hose i need to undo to pump antifreeze through the whole engine?

Also i have already put my boat in the back yard.. far away from water for me to run a fake-a-lake to make the engine reach operating temperature, is this TOTALLY necessary?

I was going to buy about 4 gallons of antifreeze and just run it until it comes out the exhaust.

ANY pictures or help would be me much appreciated...

It's getting down to 30 here over the weekend and makes me nervous :o

TSchimizzi 10-24-2013 07:43 AM

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=57925

That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.

CruisinGA 10-24-2013 08:01 AM

I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

blackhawk 10-24-2013 10:53 AM

CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.

bochnak 10-24-2013 01:53 PM

I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.

bochnak 10-24-2013 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruisinGA (Post 987435)
This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?

89mastercraft 10-24-2013 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSchimizzi (Post 987434)
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=57925

That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.

I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruisinGA (Post 987435)
I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackhawk (Post 987475)
CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bochnak (Post 987524)
I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.

Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them

thatsmrmastercraft 10-24-2013 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bochnak (Post 987525)
Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?

Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.

bochnak 10-24-2013 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89mastercraft (Post 987526)
I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures







Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...1-00-26+PM.jpg

My motor is an Indmar, not sure what yours is? Your boat is probably carbed and does not have a knock sensor like mine.

Thermostat is on top and personally would not remove it. Drain all water and let the impeller suck the RV through the motor.

bochnak 10-24-2013 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft (Post 987531)
Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.

Got it, thanks.


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