TeamTalk

TeamTalk (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/index.php)
-   Restorations and Refurbishments (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/forumdisplay.php?f=62)
-   -   Oxidation. (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=54540)

LGP 05-23-2013 09:39 PM

Oxidation.
 
The 1985 SS I recently purchased needs a good rub. I thought about having it professionally clear coated but the first bid was $3500. I have researched and read that some folks wet sand using 400 through 1500 grit paper then apply rubbing compound and a quality wax. The results seem to appear nice.

Any one have some good ideas for this weekend project?

Thanks.

orbeamlb 05-23-2013 11:06 PM

Depending on condition of your finish you may need a wet sand (if heavily oxidized). If lightly oxidized you should be able to cut out the finish with a liquid compound applied by rotary buffer, follow with a polish to remove swirl marks and bring out the shine then finish off with a good quality wax. Keep the buffer moving and let it do the work for you. As long as you don't camp out on the decals they will be fine. Step back and admire your new found shine.

There are many good products out there that will get you the results you're looking for. I've used Meguiars number series products for years with great results. Their Flagship Marine Wax works very well too.

barefoot 05-24-2013 08:11 AM

I did my boat this past spring. There was a heavy dull white oxidization in some areas...enough so that I did a 400 & 600 wet sand before compound.

You can do it yourself and learn as you go. Start with a good buffer. I like Makita, others prefer DeWalt, Porter Cable, etc. 3M has a nice series of products to get the results your looking for. The rest is your time.

The set-up will be costly at first, but a heck of a lot cheaper than having someone do it for you. Spend the money on the good stuff and you'll be happy you did.

d2jp 05-24-2013 08:33 AM

Good info here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

psychobilly 05-24-2013 09:45 AM

There's only about a hundred great threads in here on this subject already.

TayMC197 05-24-2013 11:17 AM

Collinite 920 cleaner, try using this with a buffing wheel! I love this stuff for what it did to my boat.

XavierSPL 05-25-2013 08:44 PM

Great vid above.. I personally shudder at the thought of hitting the gelcoat with something as course as 400 grit.. When I get to that point on my project boat, I was thinking more along the lines of starting with 800-1200 then hit it with compound.. Seems fairly aligned with 3M's process in the vid..

JRW160 05-25-2013 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XavierSPL (Post 939395)
Great vid above.. I personally shudder at the thought of hitting the gelcoat with something as course as 400 grit.. When I get to that point on my project boat, I was thinking more along the lines of starting with 800-1200 then hit it with compound.. Seems fairly aligned with 3M's process in the vid..

I had some pretty heavy oxidation on my transom. I started with 600 then 1000, 1500, 2000, rubbing compound with a wool pad, finishing compound with a foam pad, then wax. Time consuming, but great results

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk HD

TOO-TALL 05-25-2013 10:49 PM

great video....

willg 06-10-2013 12:20 AM

Gelcoat is much more stronger than automotive paint, so do not be afraid to buff it. I usually buff my boat at least once a season. I recommend investing in a good quality variable speed buffer. The cheap ones tend to be very heavy and make the job much harder. I use this one http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...6cagpspn%3Dpla but any good quality tool manufacturer should have something suitable. When I bought my boat, it had been abandoned in the sun for 2/3 years uncovered. I used this http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666-- with a wool pad (more aggressive) or foam pad (less aggressive) and it brought all the depth and shine back to the boat. Just remember if you are doing a large surface, like a boat, wash your pad frequently to keep the compound from building up.

I would try to hit it with the polish before wetsanding. Modern polishes and compounds work wonders. As I said before, gelcoat is much stronger than automotive paint, so I would not be afraid to buff it with an orbital buffer, even if you do not have much experience.

Once you see the results a few hours work can bring, you are going to start buffing and polishing everything you can find. I've used mine on tile floors....


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:13 PM.