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-   -   2001 x 30 tower speaker wiring (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=53494)

racrowe 04-08-2013 09:23 PM

2001 x 30 tower speaker wiring
 
Hello,
i have just bought the rev 3 some for my tower and a syn 6 to power the speakers. i am wondering what the best/easiest way to wire those speakers would be. I know i am going to have to be drilling holes in the tower which i don't have a problem with. i just wanted some ideas on how other people have wired their speakers with the 2001 x 30 tower. any recommendations and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. i am also redoing the four speakers in the boat and putting the xs650's in and powering them with a HT 4 and also putting in the WS 420, adding a second battery and isolator. hopefully this system will be pretty loud!

racrowe 04-09-2013 01:27 PM

any help is greatly appreciated! also, is this tower hollow all the way through?

bsloop 04-09-2013 01:39 PM

Don't have any suggestions on wire routing but make sure it is heavy, 10ga would be ideal for those big 10s and lots of power. Prob do 12ga on the cans but unless you have multiple rolls of wire or are very space limited, bulk 10ga is prob the best option.

Personally, I have not had/seen good luck with isolators and high power stereos. You would be money ahead using a standard perko and put the rest into an additional battery and onboard charger.

System should rock the mids and highs! I bet this time next year you will be looking for subs to round out the system ;)

racrowe 04-09-2013 02:26 PM

Bsloop,
I have already ordered a 12 inch alpine type r subwoofer with a 1000 watt amp also, I forgot to add that. I have 250 feet of 12 gauge speaker wire for the speakers. I doin the isolator for 30 dollars so I figured I would try it out. I will probably end up replacing it with something else in the future.

bsloop 04-09-2013 03:38 PM

Sounds good. I have run my 485's with 12ga KnuKonceptz wire with good results (I assume) and 600w going to each. Just been getting an overall feeling 10ga is preferred with the larger 10" woofers to give max bass headroom, just like they would in a sub installation.

Chart from Steve Mead Designs - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...irefuse-guide/
Speaker wire is down a little ways on the list.

Interesting how the wattage drops and resistance decreases.

Really think you need to look at 3-4 batteries in the stereo bank if you are running 3 amps. Those 10" and subs will eat power, regardless if you have efficient amps. More batteries will help the life of the entire bank by not running down as often (hopefully).
Unless you have done some serious alt upgrading, don't try to play the stereo hard leaving the cove with low batteries trying to charge. You WILL cook an alt.

mcrowe 04-09-2013 06:07 PM

Ryan,

Greetings from Colorado! Your English sucks ***! Good to know that private education is working out. See you at the end of the week.

Love,

Your older and much more intelligent brother, Matt.

PS. it was 70 here last night and there is snow on the ground today.

jafo9 04-09-2013 06:48 PM

how you wire the tower depends on which bar you want to hang the speakers on. i just went through this. the speakers that were already installed were mounted on the rear bar but the wires were routed out holes in the front bar. having clearance for my bimini was a priority so i really didn't have a choice. it was a real pita to get the wire from the front to the back. if i was starting from scratch i'd strongly consider routing the wires up the back bar. i know this would mean that a) you could never put your tower down or b) you'd have to add some type of connection point external to the tube. as my wires already went up the front leg, i chose to keep that orientation and just route the wire through the middle bar that connects the front and rear tube. there is a hole drilled in the front and back to allow the wire for the all around white light. it isn't very big and honestly i had a heck of a time just passing jacketed 14ga. if you enlarged the holes, you would have to remove the wire to the light first or it would be destroyed in the process.

here's my thread on this topic with some pictures and lots of good advice.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=52345

jigster 04-09-2013 09:16 PM

As mentioned above, run the wires through the center oblong pipe where the marker light wires are. Luckily the holes in my tower were larger and i was able to get two runs of 14 gauge through no problem. I used the tc3 swivel clamps to mount mine but my outer cans are feed externally thru wires coming from the front pipe where the factory cans where. Use weather pak connectors at the tower joint so you can remove the tower if ever necessary.

-jason

mcrowe 04-10-2013 10:56 AM

Looks like you are getting some good advice. I second the quick disconnect.... Is there any type of mounting equipment that will deter these things from walking away?

You better buy me a drink or something this weekend. I find it funny that the year I move out the boat gets 6k in stereo equipment. ***!

swatguy 04-10-2013 11:55 AM

That's system is gonna thump. I agree with the above regarding a 3 or 4 bank system. If you plan on party coving it or swimming with it that system is going to suck your single battery dead quick. I say single because you are going to want to make sure you have a safety/ starter battery so you can fire up after draining your stereo battery.


That is boat is gonna rock tho.


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