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-   -   Wet sanding, then 3m Clear Bra? (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=52778)

Aric'sX15 02-19-2013 12:30 AM

Wet sanding, then 3m Clear Bra?
 
Well im tired of people scratching the transom of the boat up, even with the transom saver on the teak. I need some advice on how to wetsand, what to use and how to do it. Ill try and get some pictures up of it soon.

any recommendation for wetsanding products? then when completely done bringing the transom back to life, im contemplating putting 3M clear bra on it to prevent scratches. any one with experience with this?
thanks for the help!

Aric'sX15 02-19-2013 12:34 AM

Mods can move my post if necessary.. its late and i forgot to post it in the appearance section.

FourFourty 02-19-2013 08:04 AM

Foor deeper imperfections-
1-Start with 400 grit and be very careful of how much material you are removing. Get the imperfection close, and switch to 800 grit. Feather the surface outward from the imperfection. Any imperfection that really catches your finger nail (.040 or deeper. Lets say, deep enough that a toothpick would set down into the void more than half way....Hard to explain....) should be filled. The gel is usually thick enough to remove even deep scratches, however, you will see a low spot there, after the repair.

2-Only use 800 to even out the scratches of the 400.

3-Switch to 1200 grit and even out the scratches from 800 grit. This is where you can start using water. Water, is only used, so that you can see the scratches, and imperfections better. Other than that, the water has no purpose.

4-At this point, you can choose to hit it with 1500 grit (wet), or switch to medium cut compound. If you hit it with 1500 grit (or even 2000), you will save a little buffing time. Being as I have a good orbital buffer, I usually go to compound after the 1200 grit. If you used 1500 or 2000, even out the scratches from the 1200, and then switch to medium cut compound.

5-Once the surface looks very smooth, and you can only see the swirls/scratches under direct, bright light, switch to a fine cut compound. (proper lighting is VERY important). Continue with a fine compound until only fine swirl marks can be seen, when looking at the surface at a 45 degree angle, with light shining directly on the surface.

6-Swirl remover until mirror shine.

For Scuffs, marks, and light Scratches- Start at step 3.

I rarely ever wet sand. I have done it so much on cars, and boats, that I dont need to anymore. I will usually have a rag with wax/grease remover on it, and use it to swipe the surface after each step. This removes any chance of contamination, and also puts a gloss on the surface, so that I can see any leftover imperfections. It also saves myself from cleaning a mess after.

FourFourty 02-19-2013 08:09 AM

Oh, and I think the 3M clear-bra is a fantastic idea. I plan to do that on my new boat.

boogie420 02-19-2013 10:27 AM

Guy at service dept txmc think his name was earnie does this. Think was only 400 bucks for the entire boat. No 3m just the sand/buff process.

TXMC-06X2 02-19-2013 10:44 AM

Were the guys at TXMC able to give you contact info on Earnie?

boogie420 02-19-2013 11:04 AM

i didn't save the number.i went up there and asked service dept about buff then he gave me a call few hours later. his bill was separate from the work i had done while it was there.

Aric'sX15 02-19-2013 11:53 AM

I think he was going to do my boat a few weeks ago before I picked it up, but I was far too eager to get back on the water. I would contact Jeff in service, as he was going hook me up with him.

Fourfourty, thanks for the info! Going to try and knock it out this weekend! Incredibly jealous on your new boat, she's a beauty!!

CantRepeat 02-19-2013 12:03 PM

Post a couple of photos of the damage.

And remember, go with the least aggressive approach first. You can't magically un-sand the gel coat once it's gone.

Aric'sX15 02-19-2013 01:22 PM

I'll try and grab a few pictures of it this week!


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