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02ProstarSammyD 12-31-2012 09:45 AM

3m di noc trim update
So a few were curious about this and I finally got done this weekend and thought I'd a cheesy write up. My dash trim and rear cupholders had the machined metal look and while it looked great there were spots where the PO (pos) had gotten some glue or something on the clear. It basically looked pretty bad.

You can order this stuff from pretty much anywhere online. I used metrostyling off amazon b/c I had some rewards off a card saved up. Came to the door in about 3 days. First off this material is far more impressive than any other vinyl carbon fiber ive seen. It has a nice lil shine to it and an actual texture.

First step: Cut a hole in the box (jk)

Step 2: remove the trim pieces. The rear cupholder is just held by 2 screws and pops right out. The dash pieces vary but you will have to remove all of the gauges. Not a big deal since I timed the new depth finder install around this. All the gauges on a normal boat are held by a U bracket on the back held by 2 nuts. The plugs are all the same and 1 click to pop them out. This does go out the window when you get to your rocker switches. I just removed one rocker switch at a time and marked each with a wire marker. All these are are numbers you can buy at the hardware store that have numbers on them. I mark all the wires in my boat as I work on stuff just in case something gets jarred loose, etc. Nothing worse than trying to backtrack lv wiring.

Step 3: With the dash pieces removed I scrubbed them with standard household cleaner. If your clear coat is damaged or you have "gunk" on the top you will have to chip it away. I had to remove the clear coat off 1 piece with a razor to get a 100% smooth surface. Any surface imperfection will show through this stuff (ask me how I know).

Step 4: lay the trim piece over the vinyl (with a piece of cardboard under both) and cut a template with roughly a 1/4-1/2" of excess around the edges to fold around. This material will peel if you try to trim it right to the edge.

Step 5: Remove the backing and place the vinyl on the surface. If you get some air bubbles its ok. DON'T freak out. You can rub the bubbles out to the side easier than normal vinyl. If its really bad hit it with a hair dryer and repeat the step.

Step 6: fold the edges around the back of the trim. For corners you will want to make small slits to the edge of the trim. this will allow the material to not bunch in corners. A hair dryer makes this material highly pliable. You can stretch it, fold it etc. The cut your holes for the gauges. Again make slits to the edge, heat it up, and fold it over the back. You don't need an edge sealer on this product if you do it right since all edges will be sandwiched by gauges or dash.

Overall it takes awhile to do this project. If you get this done in less than a few hours you are a better man than me but I think the final product is pretty cool. I used the silver dinoc and it is the closest to the factory "aluminum" color. After I got done I might have used the graphite or black just for better styling. The silver does look more "factory" imho.

02ProstarSammyD 12-31-2012 09:47 AM

Final products. Ill try to get a few more overall dash pics tonight to show how it all came together


and yes I'm putting the check engine light back in. Waiting for a new one

02ProstarSammyD 12-31-2012 09:50 AM

clrussell 12-31-2012 10:37 AM

Looks very good!


02ProstarSammyD 12-31-2012 10:51 AM

Oh and to add the 1'X4' is about 20 bucks. Has a 5 year outdoor life. I did the back cupholder piece, and all the dash done with the 1x4. I'll have to order a smaller section to do the side section if I choose to but for 20 bucks and 4 hours I'm more than happy to change it every 5 years. Comes in like 7 colors too including brown, red, white, etc

thatsmrmastercraft 12-31-2012 10:53 AM

Nice work. :toast:

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