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-   -   Perfectpass Resets when I crank ignition (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=37287)

jconover 08-09-2010 10:59 PM

Perfectpass Resets when I crank ignition
 
Recently added a PerfectPass Stargazer to my boat (mechanical model with servo). PPSG turns on when i flip the key to on -- dash module beeps and initializes, servo initializes, system ready to go.

Turn the key to the crank position, and there is a voltage drop across the whole system. PPSG dash module reboots (beep) and the whole thing re-initializes. This is highly inconvenient, as it is generally necessary for me to give the boat a bit of gas right after turning the key. When the dash module resets, it re-initializes the servo motor. Moving the throttle during the initialization really dorks things up.

Any PP owners out there had challenges like this? Any suggestions?

My boat is wired factory, as follows:
Negative ground from battery to front of block near alternator (cleaned this up)
Positive from battery to starter motor on 00 marine cable (new)
Positive from starter motor to terminal strip on 10 gauge marine wire.
Positive (charge) from alternator to terminal strip on 10 gauge wire.
Dash power from terminal strip to dash via factory harness (two feeds)

PP is wired in to dash wiring. Positive comes off of keyswitch "on" terminal.
Negative is tied in to dash wiring via T-Tap.

I am considering running a clean ground from the battery directly to the PPSG and/or to the whole dash. Any other suggestions on how to clean up this annoying problem.

Side note: The battery is brand new 1000CCA, tests good at the battery shop under load.
Side note 2: The radio suffers a similar reboot. It is wired basically the same way, but on the accessory pole of the keyswitch.

east tx skier 08-09-2010 11:18 PM

Try wiring the power on your Perfect Pass directly to the battery.

jconover 08-09-2010 11:26 PM

Thanks east TX - if I do that, won't it run my battery down when the boat isn't running? I suppose it is a good method for troubleshooting. I was wondering what a more viable long-term fix might be.

André 08-10-2010 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jconover (Post 700548)
Thanks east TX - if I do that, won't it run my battery down when the boat isn't running? I suppose it is a good method for troubleshooting. I was wondering what a more viable long-term fix might be.

You need to install a relay to power the PP.
Do a search on waterski forum(Nicholl.s).There's a schematic somewhere posted by Thomas Wayne...

east tx skier 08-10-2010 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by André (Post 700580)
You need to install a relay to power the PP.
Do a search on waterski forum(Nicholl.s).There's a schematic somewhere posted by Thomas Wayne...

Sorry, yes, do what Andre says. I was posting while child raising last night.

jconover 08-10-2010 01:14 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Found this
http://ballofspray.com/vanillaforum/...cussionID=1118

Skipper 08-10-2010 08:43 PM

Somebody help me out with this schematic:

I am tracking that a new wire must be run from the battery to the terminal marked "87".

I think a wire is supposed to be run from the terminal marked "30" to the back of the PP display where there is currently a purple wire. This wire will replace the purple wire. What happens to the other end of the purple wire?

Now for the black and purple wire that goes to the PP logic module. Does the black wire get disconnected from the tach and then a new wire runs from terminal "86" to the ground on the tach? And what is the deal with that purple wire?

I am so confused.:confused:

Skipper 08-22-2010 03:16 PM

.....................................

jconover 08-24-2010 12:45 AM

This circuit simply switches power from terminal 87 to terminal 30 when 12 V is applied to terminal 85.

Yes, a clean 12V needs to be pulled from a battery to terminal 87.
You wire terminal 30 to the PP purple wire. The old purple wire can simply be "nutted" off - it was the 12V power supply from the PP harness.

You wire terminal 86 to ground. It doesn't have to be ground on the tach. If you chose to wire to ground on the tach, don't remove the wire that is already there (you'd be removing the ground, which is what you are trying to steal). He is basically just using the ground on the tach as a convenient place to steal a ground. I ran mine to a clean ground run from the battery.

The remaining wire is a new clean run to the ignition switch, and applies 12V to the "switch" in the relay whenever the key is in the ACC, RUN, or START positions.

For the logic module, you're doing more of the same. You are breaking the 12V feed to the logic module, and providing a new power source from terminal 30. So you'd clip the purple wire, cap off the end that doesn't go to the logic module, and run an additional lead from terminal 30 to the purple wire that feeds into the logic module.

jconover 08-24-2010 12:48 AM

Update on my issues - I was trying to avoid adding a second battery to my boat, which is what this circuit will require. Adding the relay will not stop the starter motor from drawing down the battery voltage, assuming everything else is the same. I am going to try this circuit with a single battery first, but I am not expecting any better results than I already have.

I finished cleaning up the ground on my existing battery - replaced the crimped-on 2 ga connector with a clean bolt-on battery terminal connector, and ran a clean 10ga ground from the battery negative screwpost to the dash (I tied it to the existing ground behind the dash, Y'ing in the 2 PP ground wires at the same time to ensure I had the best possible ground for the PP). Net results: No better behavior - the PP still resets every time i start the engine, as does my radio.

I will try this circuit next weekend - i have the relay in hand.


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