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-   -   96 PS 190 PCM ZR6 Conversion (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=57937)

Bouyhead 10-23-2013 08:39 AM

96 PS 190 PCM ZR6 Conversion
 
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Figured I'd take the advice of CruisinGA and start a thread on my ZR6 conversion. Pretty sure not too many guys will actually refer to this how to thread but it is the off season:[email protected] ericB I got the motor through Discount Inboard Marine from PCM. It is a leftover rated at 375HP @ Ben I was looking into a repower for ZO capabilities and when I inquired at DIM they gave me a great price on the ZR6 with a new 1.1 tranny. I'm selling my power package complete and unloading my PPSG to a buddie offset to the cost. Right now I'm looking at a custom driveshaft as the motor has to be pushed forward to get clearance for the bell housing, and maybe a spacer plate for the front mounts to get the motor a little higher. Should have more pics after the weekend. Pretty cool that the red matches my boat!
Attachment 102478

Dylan 10-23-2013 10:22 AM

First and foremost, awesome project! The motor looks good sitting there. How far forward does the motor need to slide?

mgs96ps 10-23-2013 01:17 PM

I have a 96 Prostar with an lt1 Corvette engine in it rated around 320 horsepower...I can only imagine that boat with another 50 to 60 horsepower....wow! if the perfect pass stargazer doesn't work out with your buddy can I be first on the list?

MC25 10-23-2013 02:13 PM

dang.... now THAT is awesome!

CruisinGA 10-23-2013 02:46 PM

Buoy- I travel to NYC and area on the reg for work. You need to finish this up by springtime so I can get a barefoot pull behind it! It should be rocket fast!

willyt 10-23-2013 03:05 PM

indmar to PCM? that's an interesting switch, would have thought all your harnesses would be different

Bouyhead 10-23-2013 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dylan (Post 987294)
First and foremost, awesome project! The motor looks good sitting there. How far forward does the motor need to slide?

Thanks! Right now it looks like I have to go all the way forward. Going to do a final mock up on Saturday and hopefully drill and tap new holes, get the motor bolted in and lined up so I can measure and order a new driveshaft.

D3skier 10-23-2013 08:58 PM

that is just absolutely SICK!!! good luck with the project

DooSPX 10-25-2013 08:55 AM

Awesome! Going to be watching this project!

JohnE 10-25-2013 10:02 AM

Great project Mike, looking forward to seeing it progress.

CantRepeat 10-25-2013 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnE (Post 987771)
Great project Mike, looking forward to seeing it progress.

I agree with John.

I'll add this:

I think you don't see a lot of people asking about repowers or howtos because there just aren't a lot of people doing them. I think the more that do happen and are well documented would increase other people doing the same kind of stuff.

I'm very interested in the conversion/upgrade and especially in the ECM wiring part of it. I assume the mechanical is pretty straight forward.

scott023 10-25-2013 04:52 PM

That looks awesome in there. Why are you doing this changeover? Just for a power increase?

maxpower220 10-25-2013 05:58 PM

Here's my dumb question: Why couldn't you use the original mounts from your Indmar chevy engine on this chevy PCM? I would think your old tranny would mount up and then your shaft and angle issues would be resolved, no???

With the different mounts, position, and tranny, will you be able to get the proper angle on the shaft without binding?

sethro 10-25-2013 07:22 PM

PCM utilizes a different mounting system. The engine sits level, while the transmission has the 9 degree down angle. One of the things I prefer over the Indmar marinization.

I'm assuming he's using a PCM engine/Power Plus transmission package as he said he was selling his entire driveline to help offset the cost.

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:22 PM

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Thanks for all the positive comments guys, this project is a little daunting. Right now the wiring harness seems to be the least of my worries. I got the adapter from DIM, the boat end, (black)is for an older boat, it won't plug into my harness, and the one i need is no longer avilable. So I'll just cut off the boat end and hard wire that as I can just unplug from the motor.
Attachment 102574

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CantRepeat (Post 987864)
I agree with John.

I'll add this:

I think you don't see a lot of people asking about repowers or howtos because there just aren't a lot of people doing them. I think the more that do happen and are well documented would increase other people doing the same kind of stuff.

I'm very interested in the conversion/upgrade and especially in the ECM wiring part of it. I assume the mechanical is pretty straight forward.

It seems the motor functions/ ECM are all self contained. The adapter appears to be powering the ECM,dash switches, starter, and gauges.

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxpower220 (Post 987880)
Here's my dumb question: Why couldn't you use the original mounts from your Indmar chevy engine on this chevy PCM? I would think your old tranny would mount up and then your shaft and angle issues would be resolved, no???

With the different mounts, position, and tranny, will you be able to get the proper angle on the shaft without binding?

Being an LS motor the mounting holes on the block are different and the diameter of the trunnions are different as well.

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott023 (Post 987868)
That looks awesome in there. Why are you doing this changeover? Just for a power increase?

Thanks, the main reason is for Zero Off speed control, and I got a pretty good deal on this motor as it was a leftover. BTW, that new avatar freaks me out! I can't look at it for more than a few seconds!

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:38 PM

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Got a friend who's a pretty good fabricator but hates boats. Made me some spacer blocks to raise the front of the motor and get the proper bell housing clearance. Evidently MC molds a section of metal the entire length of the stringer so drilling and tapping new hole was a breeze.
Attachment 102575

D3skier 10-26-2013 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bouyhead (Post 988013)
Thanks for all the positive comments guys, this project is a little daunting. Right now the wiring harness seems to be the least of my worries. I got the adapter from DIM, the boat end, (black)is for an older boat, it won't plug into my harness, and the one i need is no longer avilable. So I'll just cut off the boat end and hard wire that as I can just unplug from the motor.
Attachment 102574

instead of cutting off the harness can you use a small all and push the wires out to be able to connect the wires directly to the new harness that fits the new motor?

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:40 PM

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I pad makes me post one at a time:confused:
Attachment 102576

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:41 PM

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Attachment 102577

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D3skier (Post 988018)
instead of cutting off the harness can you use a small all and push the wires out to be able to connect the wires directly to the new harness that fits the new motor?

The gray ends will plug into the harness on the new motor, so I'm thinking ill just hard wire the boat end so I can still just unplug if I ever have to pull the motor.

Bouyhead 10-26-2013 09:55 PM

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One thing that worked out great today was crating up the ol' TBI to be shipped.
Attachment 102578

Ben 10-26-2013 10:36 PM

Is that the boat carpet or do you have something sacrificial in place? I would hope so.

1redTA 10-27-2013 07:32 AM

Lookin good

scott023 10-27-2013 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bouyhead (Post 988016)
Thanks, the main reason is for Zero Off speed control, and I got a pretty good deal on this motor as it was a leftover. BTW, that new avatar freaks me out! I can't look at it for more than a few seconds!

Lol. I figured the motor boat belonged on a boat forum. ;)

Bouyhead 10-27-2013 10:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Anyone want to buy a ZR6 cheap? I've been fighting this thing all weekend. I have good clearance underneath and shaft angle is real close. Many hurdles to jump yet but the front mounts have me concerned. I'm running an inch and a half spacer plate under the front mount and still have to crank the front mount all the way up. Having the mount cranked all the way up on the stud is not as stable as having it halfway as you see on most boats. If I run them that high i'll have problems down the road. Not sure how much higher I could or would want to go.
Attachment 102601



Anyone have any ideas? If I can talk DIM into exchanging it for the 300 hp 5.0 liter I might do it. Other commitments and the weather have me running out of time. Boat doesn't fit in the garage and working outside gets old real quick when the weather turns.

Spork 10-27-2013 10:04 PM

Add another spacers under the front mounts..:confused:

Ben 10-27-2013 10:44 PM

Agree on higher mounts. You may want to consider an extra plate on the side of the mount to drop down and screw into the side of the area below the mount. This would help with lateral support for a really tall mount

Or, skip that. Not sure how much lateral force the motor sees. Seems like normal is torsional due to spinning the prop. This would seem to result in one mount (left one I think) being in tension and the other in compression.

How are the rear mounts looking?

Another option would be to see if there is a mount that slides into the engine with a "drop" to it. This would result in the eyelet being say two inches below the round part that slides to the engine.

Another option would be a rework or modification of there the mount connects to the engine. Pics of this?

Bouyhead 10-28-2013 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben (Post 988175)
Agree on higher mounts. You may want to consider an extra plate on the side of the mount to drop down and screw into the side of the area below the mount. This would help with lateral support for a really tall mount

Or, skip that. Not sure how much lateral force the motor sees. Seems like normal is torsional due to spinning the prop. This would seem to result in one mount (left one I think) being in tension and the other in compression.

How are the rear mounts looking?

Another option would be to see if there is a mount that slides into the engine with a "drop" to it. This would result in the eyelet being say two inches below the round part that slides to the engine.

Another option would be a rework or modification of there the mount connects to the engine. Pics of this?

When I did some research on these type of mounts and shaft alignment they really don't suggest you run them so high on the threaded stud because of the lateral forces you describe. You can't see it in the pic but when you try to move the motor siedways it puts a lot force on the stud and that in turn makes the trunnion bind, making it difficult to move the motor.

The rear mounts look good, no spacer plate, and I have the trunnion sitting halfway on the threaded stud.

I'm going to inquire about different mounts today. If thats a no go my fabricater wants to build up the base of the front mount so I can drop the front trunnion an inch or so. Not sure I want to add another spacer plate like J.mccreight suggested, the one i have now seems to effect the way everthing lines up. I'd like to do away with the plate entirely.

CruisinGA 10-28-2013 08:47 AM

I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.

Bouyhead 10-28-2013 01:10 PM

[quote=CruisinGA;988206]I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.[/QUOTE

The spacer plate will work but I would like the mount sitting on the stringer. One reason is with the mount on the stringer I can run the stock inch and a half bolt vs a three inch. And if I go higher, now i'm looking at a four inch or better bolt.

DIM put out a call to PCM this morning and they are sending out new taller mounts. Looking foward to giving them a shot.

thatsmrmastercraft 10-28-2013 01:20 PM

[quote=Bouyhead;988257]
Quote:

Originally Posted by CruisinGA (Post 988206)
I'm with Mccreight, maybe I am missing something, but I don't see how more spacer is going to negatively affect anything.[/QUOTE

The spacer plate will work but I would like the mount sitting on the stringer. One reason is with the mount on the stringer I can run the stock inch and a half bolt vs a three inch. And if I go higher, now i'm looking at a four inch or better bolt.

DIM put out a call to PCM this morning and they are sending out new taller mounts. Looking foward to giving them a shot.

Hope the taller mounts work. This will be a really cool set-up if you can get it all together.

sethro 10-28-2013 05:29 PM

It appears you aren't using a PCM transmission? I think that would make everything work better with the alignment issues. The engine is designed to sit level, while the transmission has the angle. Now, with that said, I think taller spacers would solve your issue without harmful effects if that gives you the correct angle for the shaft.

Bouyhead 10-28-2013 07:58 PM

[quote=thatsmrmastercraft;

Hope the taller mounts work. This will be a really cool set-up if you can get it all together.[/QUOTE]

Did you just say if?;)

Bouyhead 10-28-2013 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethro (Post 988326)
It appears you aren't using a PCM transmission? I think that would make everything work better with the alignment issues. The engine is designed to sit level, while the transmission has the angle. Now, with that said, I think taller spacers would solve your issue without harmful effects if that gives you the correct angle for the shaft.

When I got the schematic from PCM with all the dimensions it showed the PCM 1.23 gear box with the angled flange. I was pretty sure it wasn't going to fit as the overall dimension with the 1.23 box were longer so they fitted it with a 1.1

DooSPX 10-29-2013 12:40 PM

So you are using a LHR 1:1 correct? Not the RHR?

Bouyhead 10-29-2013 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DooSPX (Post 988503)
So you are using a LHR 1:1 correct? Not the RHR?

Yes, standard 1.1

1redTA 10-29-2013 04:59 PM

If you go higher on the mounts I would use a crossmember to tie thing together


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