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SpokaneSteve 06-15-2018 11:40 AM

Advice on adding fuse block
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello all:

I have a bit too much of a rat's nest of wires coming off my battery (3 amps and one extra ballast pump circuit).

I would like to add a fuse block like this one:

Attachment 176987

This should cover what I am doing now and allow for two additional circuits in the future and I like that I can eventually eliminate the in-line fuses.

I'm thinking that I would need to add some fairly short but stout positive and negative leads from the battery to the fuse block. What gauge would you all advise and is there a company that will supply them pre-crimped with appropriate connectors? I don't want to buy a crimper just for this one project. Will they need any special type of connector (stainless?) and should I get them soldered?

Any other advise from other's that had done a project like this?

Thanks much, Steve.

MLA 06-15-2018 11:47 AM

That is not intended for amplifiers. Its best for ballast pumps and other similar loads. The best practice for the 3 amps, is to run a trunk line to a distribution block, then branch lines to the amps. This will remove 2 terminals from the battery.

Gauge to amps will depend on their specific models and the gauge supply to the fuse box will depend on its potential loads. IIRC, that one is rated for 100A, so that would be your number for making the calculation based on distance.

bturner2 06-15-2018 03:47 PM

^^^^ THIS^^^^

The only wires going to the battery should be the leads from distribution blocks with the exception of possibly a lead from a bilge pump but even that can be tied to the distribution block. If you have accessories wired directly to the battery someone took a shortcut.

I bought my current boat with what was advertised as a $3000 professionally installed sound system. What I got was a rat's nest of non marine rated wire tied directly to the battery with car audio amps. Wiring going to the tower speakers were equally crappy and something you'd pick up at Autozone. If you're going to fix it, fix it right the first time so you don't have to mess with it again.

SpokaneSteve 06-15-2018 05:22 PM

Rethinking my plan
 
Always glad I post here so I can learn more.....

So, it sounds like what I need is a distribution block. Is there one folks could recommend?

Is there a distribution block that has the fuses built in so I can get rid of the in-line fuses?

Is there a website or go-by I can read so I don't waste you all's time ?

I appreciate all the help - just trying to get this wired up correctly - I'll take a picture tonight.

Thanks much! Steve.

MLA 06-15-2018 05:48 PM

Yes, there are fused blocks, but the fuses are not built-in, but rather installed and need to be appropriate for the amp and branch cable gauge. Yes, you can eliminate the individual amp B+ inline fuses, but the trunk line needs proper circuit protection as well.

If the amps' B+ are all individual runs, odds are the amps' grounds are to. This means the battery negative stud has the same issue as the positive.

bturner2 06-16-2018 06:39 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Actually what I used was terminal blocks from Blue Seas.....

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...usBars/MaxiBus

It takes some planing to figure out what you have, where the components are physically located and how to lay it out so you eliminate the clutter and simplify the installation. This is what I started out with and ended up with. And yeah that's the battery switch mounted to the plastic battery box. Nothing like a professional installation right?

bturner2 06-16-2018 06:55 AM

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This is my old set up. Last year I pulled both amps and replaced them with the newer, smaller JL Audio marine amps. The installation is a 1/4 the size which allowed me to tuck up all the wiring and components but still uses the same process.

Originally both amps had car audio in line fuses one of which you can see in the first picture. It may be fine for car audio but I wouldn't have used that set up even in my car. In the picture below you can see the two buss bars I used to combine the power and ground from the two amps into one cable for each circuit (power and ground). The ground goes to a ground terminal block located next to the battery. The hot goes to a circuit breaker then to the Battery 2 (house battery) terminal post on the battery switch along with the main cable from the dash which powers all the accessories (lights, bilge pump, ballast pumps etc.). Battery 1 (starting circuit) on the battery switch has just the starting circuit on it.

bturner2 06-16-2018 07:12 AM

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Here's a picture from another angle. I went with the optima's so I could clean the installation. The billet mounting brackets allow you to get rid of the horrid, cheap looking battery boxes which you don't need any longer as the Optima's are a sealed battery. I was however very careful to make sure all the terminals were covered with protectors so that some one throw gear under the seats didn't accidentally short the batteries somehow.

As stated above this was stereo installation 1.0 rev2. Since these pictures the new amps went in and with them a new reduction in exposed cables and cleaner routing. If you do some searching on this board you'll be able to find some great installations where guys have made amp racks or amp mounting boards to really hid all the wiring. For me this was mostly creating a functional installation that would be more reliable.

SpokaneSteve 06-16-2018 09:37 PM

Here is what I have now - help please
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is how she looks now:


Attachment 177060

It sounds like I need a terminal block to consolidate three of the wires. Can anyone suggest a particular one?

I will need some large gauge wiring to connect the batter to the block. Should I get the parts to crimp myself or is there a company that will make wires for me?

Finally, is there a way to clean up and improve the fuse situation? I have three crummy looking in-line fuses. I would like a better system for them.

thanks again, Steve.

waterlogged882 06-16-2018 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpokaneSteve (Post 1421114)
Here is how she looks now:


Attachment 177060

It sounds like I need a terminal block to consolidate three of the wires. Can anyone suggest a particular one?

I will need some large gauge wiring to connect the batter to the block. Should I get the parts to crimp myself or is there a company that will make wires for me?

Finally, is there a way to clean up and improve the fuse situation? I have three crummy looking in-line fuses. I would like a better system for them.

thanks again, Steve.

Go to ==> Genuine Deals <== and you'll find everything you need. Let those guys crimp and build your large cables. I do my own small gauge wire.

They have terminal blocks in varying load carrying capacities.

Measure the length of your cables. Add extra for up the side of the battery box and across the top of the battery.

Measure for the diameter of the terminal lug ring holes for each connection. Each hole is different depending on the bolted connection point on the terminal block, engine block, starter terminal, amplifier, and each battery terminal.

Order new cable. I suggest new hot and ground.

Get shrink connection ends.

Let those guys crimp your large cables (I'd use 2AWG or 00AWG for primary battery cables). It is $1.00 extra for each crimp. Well worth a nice connection.

They ship in a one size fits all USPS at a flat rate.

In-lines can be unattractive but ............. all depends on the application. You could run any in-line type accessories through a distribution panel (I use fused VS circuit) and make it a little neater.

For the larger in-line, I prefer the ==> terminal fuses <==. Your call.

Thing is, understand what you are getting into, determine what you want, plan it out, and order from these (above referenced) guys.

All in what you want and what the budget allows. Cable, connectors, crimpers (DIY for small gauge wire), strippers, fuses, and a fuse block (I'd look at Amazon for the ==> Blue Seas <== ) can tally up quickly.

Lots of other good advice here (above posts) as well.

.


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