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JimN JimN is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 22
  1. osbornda
    07-26-2013 10:53 PM
    osbornda
    Jim,

    I wanted to shoot you a quick message. It seems you are the M-Craft guru!

    I live in Hawaii and am very limited on wake-boat support out here. I'm having a problem with my gauges. I have an '04 X-80 STS. The speedo and both tachs are inop. The Speedo is wheel based, not a pitot tube. All grounds have been triple checked, both engine harnesses have been replaced. The ecu's are brand new on both engines and read find when plugged into a rinda system reading there outputs.

    Once in a while oil temp and water temp gauges shut off, but normally they all work. I have unplugged individual gauges and nothing changes. I have two MMDC boxes, but dont want to replace if it doesnt sound like this is the issue? Do you have any other ideas? I have read that gauges go haywire, and MMDC boxes fail... I purchased boat from Las Vegas area, so there were freezing temps in that area....but without water coming in from speedo, i wouldnt imagine that is the problem?

    What do you think?
  2. glasswater
    07-01-2013 12:42 PM
    glasswater
    Hey Jim,
    Please help me with my 93 Indmar corvette LT-1.
    See the forum under gen discussions with the fore firing problem... long story.
    Please call me @262-370-4005
    thank you,
    Jon DeBelak
  3. livid
    05-06-2013 03:06 PM
    livid
    Hey Jim, I saw a forum yesterday in which you replied about taking a wire straight from the battery to the crank on the ignition switch to test it. I was getting a flashing ECU when I tried to start my boat, I went back yesterday and when I turned the key to on, I got nothing, not even the flashing ECU... So I tried running a wire like you said straight from the battery to the ignition and I got the display gauge back (Still flashing ECU). This is an after market ignition that was installed by the dealer because they got it as a repo. I guess my question is what does it mean to run the wire straight from the battery to the ignition? Is that testing the igniton switch?
  4. djobarefooter
    07-17-2011 12:36 PM
    djobarefooter
    Hello again Jim, Last I contacted you was in 2009. Here I am again with another fuel pump issue. ( We have fixed our voltage issue) Yesterday we ran our 1995 LT-1 Sammy Duvall Craft with no issues and 15 gall. of gas. Pulled 4 slalom runs, put boat on lift.
    this morning, took off lift to put gas in for barefoot run , boat started, then died in approx 1 min. or so. Won't restart. Battery ok. No humm or click from fuel pump. Checking the fuses and "boxes"(relays) as we speak. We are going through a pump every other year, and only put less than 50 hours on each year. Any ideas what would cause this? Never have run the boat out of gas, but have run it 1/4 tank. Could this be the problem even though th fuel pump is not in the tank? Anything will help us !! Thank you once again in advance!!
  5. tazdevil
    08-14-2010 10:11 AM
    tazdevil
    hi jim
    you seem very knowledgable with idmar engines i have a rpt1 2006 runs fine the only problem is that three injectors wont open i tested them on the bench they work fine but the computer won t open them i am running on a 30psi pump mercruiser coolfuel gen 11 any idea why 3 injectors won t open there are no mastercraft dealers near thanks
  6. boyd
    06-12-2010 05:20 PM
    boyd
    Jim,
    You have helped me before. Hopefully you can do it again. I bought a new to me 87 supra. PCM. Starter is turning over very slowly. New battery, cable connections, I cleaned all the connections. It is original starter. Boat only has 302 hours on it and it's VERY clean. The last owner had the small battery connections coming from the cables to the battery(trolling motor), they were also melted off and he replaced with replacment connections. So, it's been hot before (battery)
    Do you think new starter is next ?
    Is rebuilding the starter just as good. Is there anything else to check ?
    Thank you.
    BOYD
  7. J NORRIS
    02-18-2010 05:14 PM
    J NORRIS
    Jim,
    I am planning on hooking the hull on my 2001 prostar 209. I have contacted Houston Master Craft and the drawing I got from them is no help at all. It had no dimensions on it! It looked like they wrote it on a napkin while drinking at the bar. I have a reputable fiberglass company here in Houston call Northwest Fiberglass to do the work. However I need the dimensions for them to be able to do the work. If you can help me in anyway it is much appreciated.
    Jim Norris
    (713)725-5901 if you feel like talking in person about it.
    or just reply to J NORRIS on the board.
  8. fentong
    08-19-2009 10:23 PM
    fentong
    Jim, you seem to be one of the more knowlegable trouble shooters for electrical issues on this forum. I posted an issue yesterday titled Gauges Problems (yeah I know bad choice of title to get attention). I was hoping you could take a look and reply if you have any thoughts on what the issue might be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. EricB
    08-17-2009 02:19 PM
    EricB
    Jim;
    I have a waterpump seal leaking on my 98 w/LT1. From the looks of it, the engine circulation pump is camshaft driven?
    What's the best way to replace that seal. Can it be done by removing the front watrepump cover, or do i have to take off the whole pump and reseal that way?

    thanks,
    EricB
  10. JimN
    07-06-2009 11:11 PM
    JimN
    That's possible but I would still like you to try running a ground from the splice to the battery negative. As I posted, they had a bulletin for these and that was the fix at the time. If that doesn't fix it, then I would look at a new MDC box. Also, look at the terminals on the plug and if the box opens, look inside- if the speedos have pitot tubes instead of a paddlewheel, water can get inside if you have hard freezes in winter and the tubes aren't cleared out when winterizing.

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