View Full Version : Left brake rubbing

05-31-2006, 09:47 PM
Last night after pulling the boat into her bed, I noticed a strange smell from behind the truck. I smelled the brakes -- nothing. I smelled the wiring harness - and it seemed to come from there. Weird.

Today, I got paranoid and thought it might have been the brakes, so I jacked the trailer up, and did a brake test. The right wheel didn't have any issues. The left wheel however, had a slight catch on each rotation. The brakes applied fine. The catch doesn't immediately stop the wheel, but it does apply some friction.

I pulled the caliper off and the brake pads don't seem to be worn unevenly. There is plenty of pad left. I spun the wheel very slowly, and you can definately see where the pad meets the rotor on both sides. The rotor isn't noticably warped.

When the brake is released, what makes the caliper pull back? I read on one thread that the lines could get gummed up and not all the piston to pull back. I'd buy that if I was getting a drag, but a single catch on < 1/4 of the rotor doesn't seem right. Could the rotor be warped such that its not easily visible? That doesn't seem right either.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

It's probably worth noting that the MC cap on the 03 trailer couldn't have been designed more poorly. I believe this is why I have to constantly flush my brake lines. I did a small bleed on the left side tonight, and the fluid was a shade darker than apple juice. So, I know it isn't in bottle like conditions, but its not nearly as muddy water colored as it was the first time I flushed it. Also, the brakes seem to work - and I'm assuming they wouldn't work quite so well if it was water since it wouldn't compress. I'm contemplating replacing the rubber hoses w/ steel braided ones if I can find out where to order them.

Thanks for taking the time to read this long winded post. :)

06-01-2006, 02:22 AM
I had the same problem with my 2003 MC trailer. Bad design of the calipers. After the brake pads wear down to 50%, the pistons start sticking and won't retract. Cleaning them can help a little but the more the piston extends out of the bore, the more it will start to stick trying to retract. I provided the below information to my dealer. Even though it was not covered by the warranty, they replaced the calipers since the caliper manufacturer seems to be covering it.

from mymastercraft.com
SERVICE ADVISORY No. 2004.SEPT20.SA-001 Subject: Disc Brake Caliper Troubleshooting Model: All Trailers CONDITION: Most caliper issues are associated with brakes that donít release properly or seem to stay on longer than they should. Usually, this can be caused by one of two causes: a) Guide bushings need lubrication; or b) The piston is stuck out when the brakes are applied. If either condition exists, the guide bushings should be examined to assure the bushings can slide freely inside the caliper.