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View Full Version : My Perfect Pass is Possessed!


AZHAWK
05-30-2006, 11:52 AM
Was out on the lake all day on Sat/Sun this weekend and my Perfect Pass would not hold a steady speed. I have had it vary in speed a little in the past.... especially when its rough. But I am talking a continuous 10-12mph fluctuation. Almost like a consistant surging speeding up/down and up/down etc. We ended up turning it off and driving manually all weekend. I did notice that the speedo (which is in the PP module) was not always keeping consistant numbers either. This made me belive it was a problem with the paddle wheel. After we pulled the boat out on Sat., we checked the paddle wheel for debris/connections but everything seemed OK. Has anyone else experienced this? Need some suggestions folks...HELP! :confused:

Also, I did check the PP settings and everyting was still set at the levels they were prior to the problem (dealer set).

3event
05-30-2006, 11:56 AM
Didya look at the servo and make sure the cable is tight? A quick twist to take up slack. That usually leads to throttle lever travel problems but probably not speed variation, anyway worth a look.... maybe if the cable was quite slack it would bounce around ? ? ? ? ?

prostar205
05-30-2006, 12:01 PM
AZ -

Where is the paddle wheel located? Middle of the boat next to the center drain plug or slightly in front of the motor on the port side? Mine did the exact same thing that you decribed when the paddle wheel was located in the middle of the boat. As you go thru rough water, the paddle wheel "sees" air pockets and that screws with the PP computer. My dealer moved the wheel to the rear of the boat and MasterCraft paid for it under warranty.

It now works like a charm.

RobertT
05-30-2006, 12:03 PM
Check the water proof connection for the paddlewheel. Its, shall we say, not really waterproof. Mine was just laying in the bilge, it should be zip tied up higher out of the water.

In the end, the wiring harness was allowing water to screw things up....the dealer ran a new paddlewheel wire up to the module and it has worked right since.

bigmac
05-30-2006, 12:13 PM
Didya look at the servo and make sure the cable is tight? A quick twist to take up slack. That usually leads to throttle lever travel problems but probably not speed variation, anyway worth a look.... maybe if the cable was quite slack it would bounce around ? ? ? ? ?Yes, cable slack can be a problem - easy to fix.

The other issue is the junction of the servo cable and the L-bracket on the throttle arm. ANY gap between those two structures will create surging.

http://www.perfectpass.com/images/figure_c_large.jpg



Here's what it looks like on your MariStar/MCX

http://mccollister.info/ppcable.jpg

The location of the paddlewheel on the V-drive hulls is not ideal, but that wouldn't cause 10-12 mph speed fluctuations, even in very rough chop. Furthermore, info from the paddlewheel is only used in Wakeboard mode, and only at speeds less than 25 mph. In Slalom mode, or RPM mode, ALL of the info comes from the tachometer and the paddlewheel isn't used at all to maintain a speed. Having said that, the paddlewheel does still come through the pp module to display speed info on the gauge.

Other possibilities include bad computer module, or wire connector failure as other's have mentioned. I'd look at the L-bracket on the MCX, check the servo cable tightness. If those are OK, I'd call Perfect Pass. They are very customer-responsive and eager to help with problems like these.

AZHAWK
05-30-2006, 02:47 PM
bigmac- I checked the cable slack...and it was a little sloppy by the servo. So, I tightened it up a tick. Looking at the pics bigmac, my servo is installed in a different location. It looks to be installed on a water hose and not the exhaust. I like the location that is in the pic better, I may need to move my servo. Where my servo is mounted, it creates an aggressive bend in the cable. This is creating an upward pull on the L shaped adaptor. Now, the throttle cable seems a little sloppy also. I noticed that there is about 1/4" gap between the Brass Hex and the start of the threads (cable is exposed). In the first pic it states that "With the boat in neutral, make sure there is no gap here" but in the second pic it looks like there is a gap. Is the Brass Hex to be screwed on to the threads as close as poss. to the Hex Nut that is right in front of the L-Shaped adaptor? Please clarify. Thanks.

prostar- my paddle wheel is located next to the center drain plug. I have been told of the issue with air pockets causing fluctuations. When it is rough i do see some minimal changes in speed but nothing like what it is doing now. Moving the paddle wheel makes sense but my dealer originally told me that they didn't recommend trying to do it. How did they fill the hole? Did they leave the old paddle wheel (disconnected) and add a new one in the rear? Curious.

RobertT- the wiring harness for the paddle wheel is zip tied up and out of the way. I don't think this is the problem but who knows....

prostar205
05-30-2006, 03:48 PM
AZ -

Perfect Pass makes a plug for the thru hull fitting that is left when the paddle wheel is removed. Very clean patch.

bigmac
05-30-2006, 04:40 PM
bigmac- I checked the cable slack...and it was a little sloppy by the servo. So, I tightened it up a tick. Looking at the pics bigmac, my servo is installed in a different location. It looks to be installed on a water hose and not the exhaust. I like the location that is in the pic better, I may need to move my servo. Where my servo is mounted, it creates an aggressive bend in the cable. This is creating an upward pull on the L shaped adaptor. Now, the throttle cable seems a little sloppy also. I noticed that there is about 1/4" gap between the Brass Hex and the start of the threads (cable is exposed). In the first pic it states that "With the boat in neutral, make sure there is no gap here" but in the second pic it looks like there is a gap. Is the Brass Hex to be screwed on to the threads as close as poss. to the Hex Nut that is right in front of the L-Shaped adaptor? Please clarify. Thanks.


I installed my own Perfect Pass. I put the servo on the top of the exhaust hose because it made more sense to me from a cable routing standpoint, even though the instructions called for it to be on the water hose as you describe. It would be easy for you to move - you'd just need some big-a$$ hose clamps.

The gap they're talking about is the gap between the threaded end of the servo cable AFTER it is secured through the L-bracket, and the long brass hex nut on the throttle cable.

http://mccollister.info/ppcable2.jpg

Leroy
05-30-2006, 04:58 PM
I think it is a paddle wheel problem. Somewhere on the site someone posted how to measure the voltage coming off of the wheel to see if it is jumping around. Maybe someone else knows.

djhuff
05-30-2006, 05:28 PM
When I had that boat, I put the servo on a water hose on the opposite side of the engine than the throttle control. Made for a nice easy bend of the cable. I would check all connections, take it out to some smooth water and see what happens.
My old PP would do some funny stuff like that, but after I picked up my rider and turned the engine off, when I re started, all was normal again.

Hope all of this helps.

RobertT
05-30-2006, 08:51 PM
I almost forgot this...

When we were trying to diagnose my problems with PP, two things came up.

First, the stock configuration on my 04 on the MCX caused a problem because of a tight bend in the wire. Dealer fixed quickly.

Second, to test your paddlewheel, take a volt meter and check the voltage at the PP module. When you spin the wheel by hand, it should go from 8-11volts to zero as you spin it slowly. Spin it fast and it averages out.

I was told, by memory, that if that voltage is less than about 8 volts it will not work properly. That was the case with mine. Voltage drop due to wire insulation failure.

My poor dealer was down on my lift every morning for a few weeks on this problem. It can be very frustrating. He got it though.