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View Full Version : Boat Won't Start.....***?


Datdude
05-16-2006, 11:30 PM
I bought a 1995 Prostar 190 LT-1 last Fall with 190 hours on it. The boat was alreay winterized so I put it into storage. A few weeks ago I pulled it out of storage and took it to the MC dealer to get prepped. They changed the oil/filter, changed the trany fluid, replaced the impeller, and ran it on the hose. When I bought the boat the hourmeter read 190.9 hours. When I picked the boat up tonight the hourmeter read 191.0 so I know the boat runs. My problem is that it will not start. The battery is fully charged, the saftey tether is hooked up, the shift lever is in neutral, but there is nothing, not even a clicking noise. Before I go back to the dealer looking like a moron( I know it is something simple :confused: ), what am I missing? This happened to my 1999 Sportstar last year, but I had knocked the tether off on accident. Thanks in advance

ski36short
05-16-2006, 11:56 PM
Are all the fuses/breakers OK?

jayderwin1
05-16-2006, 11:58 PM
try moving your throttle back and forth and back to netrual then try. some times my looks and feels like it is in netrual its not quiet there.

Datdude
05-17-2006, 12:06 AM
try moving your throttle back and forth and back to netrual then try. some times my looks and feels like it is in netrual its not quiet there.


I tried moving it back and forth while I had the key turned and no luck. Thanks

bcampbe7
05-17-2006, 12:09 AM
Is the battery connected?
What about the starter wires?
What about the main fuse on the motor, as ski36short mentioned?

You said no clicks or anything?

Datdude
05-17-2006, 12:18 AM
Is the battery connected?
What about the starter wires?
What about the main fuse on the motor, as ski36short mentioned?

You said no clicks or anything?

The battery is connected and everything seems to be normal. Where is the main fuse on a 1995 LT-1? What would cause the fuse to go bad?

The most frustrating part is that the dealer just had the boat running a few days ago.

SKI*MC
05-17-2006, 12:24 AM
Erk just has this problem with his boat at the dealer. Make sure that your fuel injection lines and wires are all conected. If they are't the boat won't turn over at all.

Leroy
05-17-2006, 12:46 AM
Do the lights dim or anything electrical change when cranking? I guess not and that you are not even getting voltage to the starter relay.

6ballsisall
05-17-2006, 01:05 AM
Check to see if the dealer disconnected the ground wire that grounds to your block. My dealer for whatever reason left that off and after some time I figured it out, but of course, not before a few choice words :mad:

erkoehler
05-17-2006, 01:59 AM
Chad, just behind the flame arrestor there should be some wires, are those plugged in?

That was my problem, but I have the TBI engine ????

JimN
05-17-2006, 03:16 AM
The injector harness has no bearing on whether the motor will crank. If they're off, it obviously won't run, but that's all. Remove the shift cable and have someone crank it while you move the shift lever. You can also use a screwdriver to make contact on the two screws on the neutral safety switch. If it starts, you need a new switch. You may also have a loose screw on the ignition switch. Press on the lanyard or the pin in the safety switch if these other things don't work. This would indicate a bad safety switch or lanyard- they tend to relax over time and can't push it in far enough. Do your gauges come to life when you turn the key to ON?

The hour meter advancing .1 hours means that the key was turn to ON, not that it was running. Also, 6 minutes isn't really a whole lot of time to see if a motor is running OK, is it?

Datdude
05-17-2006, 09:51 AM
The injector harness has no bearing on whether the motor will crank. If they're off, it obviously won't run, but that's all. Remove the shift cable and have someone crank it while you move the shift lever. You can also use a screwdriver to make contact on the two screws on the neutral safety switch. If it starts, you need a new switch. You may also have a loose screw on the ignition switch. Press on the lanyard or the pin in the safety switch if these other things don't work. This would indicate a bad safety switch or lanyard- they tend to relax over time and can't push it in far enough. Do your gauges come to life when you turn the key to ON?

The hour meter advancing .1 hours means that the key was turn to ON, not that it was running. Also, 6 minutes isn't really a whole lot of time to see if a motor is running OK, is it?

The guages come to life when I turn the key on and there is a beep. I am going to try pushing the safety tether with my finger to see if that does the trick. I am also going to take the boat to the dealer today to see what is up. Thanks for the help guys.....hopefully this gets figured out soon. I really think it is something very minor

JimN
05-17-2006, 10:21 AM
If the gauges come to life, the lanyard is working and the switch is OK. Go to the solenoid and with the key off, connect the yellow/red post to the heavy battery post. If you hear a click and nothing happens, the solenoid is toast. If you hear nothing, check the voltage on the battery post- low means either bad battery or dirty terminal/bad cable/loose connection/bad ground. Also, check the voltage on the yellow/red during cranking. If you see 0Vdc, again, look at the ignition switch and/or the neutral safety switch.

Datdude
05-17-2006, 11:03 AM
If the gauges come to life, the lanyard is working and the switch is OK. Go to the solenoid and with the key off, connect the yellow/red post to the heavy battery post. If you hear a click and nothing happens, the solenoid is toast. If you hear nothing, check the voltage on the battery post- low means either bad battery or dirty terminal/bad cable/loose connection/bad ground. Also, check the voltage on the yellow/red during cranking. If you see 0Vdc, again, look at the ignition switch and/or the neutral safety switch.


I will check this stuff out when I get home from work. This website and all of its members are AWESOME!!!!! I really appreciate the help guys. :toast:

Workin' 4 Toys
05-17-2006, 11:24 AM
You may also have a loose screw.
That's what I was thinking.......;)

But seriously, Isn't there a main circuit breaker on his boat?

Oh, and DD, you should be used to this sort of thing, you do have a Skidoo don't you..... J/K, I thought I'd beat Erk to that one....

JimN
05-17-2006, 11:26 AM
There is a main breaker and if it popped, the dash won't get any power, either.

The loose screw reference wasn't an insult, BTW.

Workin' 4 Toys
05-17-2006, 11:27 AM
Jim, I am sure he knew that, but you beat me to the suggestion.....:rolleyes:

Datdude
05-17-2006, 11:41 AM
That's what I was thinking.......;)

But seriously, Isn't there a main circuit breaker on his boat?

Oh, and DD, you should be used to this sort of thing, you do have a Skidoo don't you..... J/K, I thought I'd beat Erk to that one....

I have never been left on the side of the trail or had a ride cancelled because of mechanical failure since I have been riding Ski Doo (2002). My buddies Cats have let us down a few times(crankshaft, stator, blah blah) :cool:

I really do have a screw loose, but it has nothing to do with the boat :uglyhamme

No offense taken :D

Datdude
05-18-2006, 01:04 PM
Dropped the boat off at the MC dealer this morning. The mechanic checked the battery and it was good, the fuel pump runs when you turn the key on but there is nothing after that. At first he thought he knew what it was and reached around behind the throttle, but that was not it(whatever he was looking for?). Now he thinks the starter is stuck since it won't crank over, or something electrical :mad:

JimN
05-18-2006, 01:23 PM
If it takes him a long time to troubleshoot this, beat bumps on his head.

BTW, when you looked at it, did you loosen the starter bolts? That's where it grounds to the block and could also cause this. He may have been feeling around for loose wires going to the safety switch and if he was, he was looking in the wrong place since the motor will crank but not fire if these wires are loose. He needs to look on the battery cable, solenoids, ignition switch, starter and the yellow/red wire path.

Diesel
05-18-2006, 01:45 PM
Dropped the boat off at the MC dealer this morning. The mechanic checked the battery and it was good, the fuel pump runs when you turn the key on but there is nothing after that. At first he thought he knew what it was and reached around behind the throttle, but that was not it(whatever he was looking for?). Now he thinks the starter is stuck since it won't crank over, or something electrical :mad:

First bypass the neutral saftey switch to elilminate it. Unplug it at the top of the transmission and/or behind the throttle and instert a jumper wire and give it a shot. My 95 LT1 was notorious for this.

Also one year my 95 did nothing at start up. I shorted the solenoid like Jim described and it fired right up. Never had to do it again but for some reason it was stuck.

Datdude
05-18-2006, 02:39 PM
First bypass the neutral saftey switch to elilminate it. Unplug it at the top of the transmission and/or behind the throttle and instert a jumper wire and give it a shot. My 95 LT1 was notorious for this.

Also one year my 95 did nothing at start up. I shorted the solenoid like Jim described and it fired right up. Never had to do it again but for some reason it was stuck.


Thanks for the help guys.....

The boat is fixed-it was the neutral saftey switch that was bad. Wonder how much this is gonna cost?

Diesel
05-18-2006, 02:42 PM
$15.50 according to ski dim.

http://www.skidim.com/images/R153011.jpg

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R153011

Installation takes all of 5 min.... ;)

jmyers
05-18-2006, 03:21 PM
$15.50 according to ski dim.

http://www.skidim.com/images/R153011.jpg

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R153011

Installation takes all of 5 min.... ;)
Part at MC $45
Minimum shop charge $85
Service charge $30
Owning a MC PRICELESS! :D

Tom023
05-18-2006, 03:42 PM
The hour meter advancing .1 hours means that the key was turn to ON, not that it was running. Also, 6 minutes isn't really a whole lot of time to see if a motor is running OK, is it?


Jim, IIRC my LTR manual says the hour meter only registers if the RPMs are over 300. Is it different for the LT1 or different boats? I'm guessing the MDC vs. a hard wired hour meter would make this different.

Diesel
05-18-2006, 03:53 PM
Jim, IIRC my LTR manual says the hour meter only registers if the RPMs are over 300. Is it different for the LT1 or different boats?

Yes it is different. The LTR uses the MDC box which controls the guages and hour meter. The older guages were tied into the ingition switch.

Learned that the hard way the first year I had my 95 and would listen to the stereo in the "ON" position. True engine hours are logged by the ECM and IMHO are the only way to determine acutal hours on the mid 90 boats. The hour meter was just too easy to disconnect.

JimN
05-18-2006, 04:37 PM
Actual hours based on whether the ECM was replaced or subbed for some reason.

I didn't know if the gauges were the old style or with the MDC box. Easy to use the 300 RPM cutoff that way.

jmyers- if there's a minimum charge, what is the service charge for?

I thought we covered the neutral safety switch in the first few posts, as well as how to bypass/check it.

Datdude
05-18-2006, 11:09 PM
Part at MC $45
Minimum shop charge $85
Service charge $30
Owning a MC PRICELESS! :D


Actually........the repair bill was only $39.72 with tax. The part was $15 and 1/4 hour of labor. I was very scared when I called in to find out, and got lucky this time. Thanks again for all of the input.

Thanks to Stengl Marine for getting me in and repaired the same day-one week before Memorial Day!!!!


Also on the hourmeter subject, my boat shows 191 hours and the previous owner(parent's neighbor) told me that his dealer left the key on over the weekend when it was droped off for service and registered over 50 hours that are not really on the boat. I would have been suspicious of this claim, but he told me about it two years before I bought the boat.

jmyers
05-19-2006, 03:13 PM
Actually........the repair bill was only $39.72 with tax. The part was $15 and 1/4 hour of labor. I was very scared when I called in to find out, and got lucky this time. Thanks again for all of the input.

Thanks to Stengl Marine for getting me in and repaired the same day-one week before Memorial Day!!!!


Also on the hourmeter subject, my boat shows 191 hours and the previous owner(parent's neighbor) told me that his dealer left the key on over the weekend when it was droped off for service and registered over 50 hours that are not really on the boat. I would have been suspicious of this claim, but he told me about it two years before I bought the boat.
That's great! I was just busting your chops on the pricing! :D Glad it worjed out for you! :headbang:

Bert
05-19-2006, 09:14 PM
Also on the hourmeter subject, my boat shows 191 hours and the previous owner(parent's neighbor) told me that his dealer left the key on over the weekend when it was droped off for service and registered over 50 hours that are not really on the boat. I would have been suspicious of this claim, but he told me about it two years before I bought the boat.
I have done that twice now and each time only took about 11 hours on my hour meter to kill the battery.

Datdude
05-19-2006, 11:01 PM
I have done that twice now and each time only took about 11 hours on my hour meter to kill the battery.

What is drawing power from the battery besides the depthfinder and the hourmeter assuming the radio is off?

Bert
05-20-2006, 01:25 AM
What is drawing power from the battery besides the depthfinder and the hourmeter assuming the radio is off?
Nothing at all

JimN
05-20-2006, 09:55 AM
Bert- So you have checked the current draw with the key on and the hour meter disconnected, right?

Bert
05-20-2006, 10:34 AM
Bert- So you have checked the current draw with the key on and the hour meter disconnected, right?
Yes, no draw at all. May have been a weaker battery ? Have a new one in there now. Still think 50 hours to drain the battery could be a stretch.

JimN
05-20-2006, 10:53 AM
If you want to be sure about it, measure the current draw of the hour meter. If you know the draw, you can calculate the length of time to deplete the battery but dropping the voltage to zero is really bad for a battery.

Anyone ever heard of a Battery Buddy? A breaker pops when the voltage drops to ~9.5V and prevents any draw. Keeps the battery from being damaged by deep discharges.

Datdude
05-24-2006, 10:46 AM
Well.................

After having the neutral saftey switch replaced at the MC dealer last week I took the boat out last Sunday. It started great when I got to the lake, after stopping at my boss's house and stopping for lunch. My problem is that it WON'T START NOW :mad: . It has exactly the same reaction as it did before. When I turn the key, the fuel pump cycles but when I turn the key-NOTHING. I talked to the dealer this morning and he told me to jump the wires coming out of the transmission before the solenoid. The problem is that I am not a mechanic and have no idea how to do this. Talk about feeling like a moron :o . Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated-pictures help too. I really don't want to miss this weekend on the lake if I can help it. Thanks


I am at work and do not have access to the boat, but how hard is it to replace the neutral saftey switch?

JimN
05-24-2006, 10:51 AM
The neutral safety switch has two screws holding the wires on and removes with a socket or box wrench (5/8 IIRC). Very easy to do. Next time it doesn't start, press on the part of the lanyard that pushes the safety switch in. That kind of lanyard can relax over time if it stays on the switch.

You probably have a solenoid behind the plastic cover at the rear of your motor. That can go bad and cause this problem. Ask the dealer if they checked this.

Datdude
05-24-2006, 12:38 PM
The neutral safety switch has two screws holding the wires on and removes with a socket or box wrench (5/8 IIRC). Very easy to do. Next time it doesn't start, press on the part of the lanyard that pushes the safety switch in. That kind of lanyard can relax over time if it stays on the switch.

You probably have a solenoid behind the plastic cover at the rear of your motor. That can go bad and cause this problem. Ask the dealer if they checked this.


I have pressed on the lanyard to no avail. I will have to find out if they checked the solenoid when the replaced the neutral saftey switch last week. Does anyone know how to bypass the neutral saftey switch to see if that is the problem?

JimN
05-24-2006, 12:57 PM
You can bypass the neutral safety switch by making the two wires touch. If it starts, the switch isn't being pressed in enough. You can check this by removing the switch and pressing the ball in while cranking. If it works, look at the washer that is on the switch or the transmission case- if there's one on each, remove one of them. If the one that's there is particularly thick, you might need a thinner one. If connecting the two wires does nothing, look at the solenoid under the cover as the source of trouble. This needs to be grounded, so look at the bolt or stud behind this cover for corrosion. All of the motor's ground wires are attached at this point. Wiggle the wires individually and see if any break loose. If they do, they were going to go bad anyway. These should be crimped AND soldered.

Datdude
05-24-2006, 04:26 PM
I am a MORON :o

When I had been trying to start the boat I was playing with the shifter in an attempt to get it into neutral. As it turns out you have to pull up on the plunger and then move the shifter back and forth slightly. When that is done the boat starts every time. Now it only appears that my boat needs a throttle cable adjustment. :D

Saved the weekend :banana:

jimmer2880
05-25-2006, 06:52 AM
Good to hear it wasn't anything serious.

JimN
05-25-2006, 09:53 AM
You aren't a moron, your dealer didn't find it, did they?

Datdude
05-25-2006, 10:55 AM
You aren't a moron, your dealer didn't find it, did they?


I took it to the dealer and the salesman helped me out. He jumped the wires on the neutral saftey switch and it started so we figured it was the switch. Then he was moving the shifter while turning the key and it started. I had tried that for 20 minutes and it did nothing for me so I asked what he did. That is when I found out that he lifted the plunger and then moved the throttle. I am very happy that it is nothing major.

BUT, I wonder why the boat started perfectly last Sunday right after they replaced the neutral saftey switch....then nothing on Tuesday night. Weird