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View Full Version : Novice needs tune up and 4010 Carb help


hz900
05-06-2006, 05:38 PM
This is a new boat for me and I've had it out 3 times now, first 2 it ran great aside from idling rough, 3rd it was very sluggish and would top out at 35 mph with the same number of people as previous when it would do 45ish. I'm new to inboards and don't know much about carbed engines, I work on FI car V8's. Anyway I know the 4010 isn't the better carb, but because of budget reasons I'm stuck with it for now. I found the two adjustment screws on either side and from another post of mine I know what the base adjustment is and the cleaning procedure which I'll try when I take it out next weekend. When I took the air cleaner off I notice that the flap at the top of the carb was open, and the boat was in neutral (boat wasn't running if that makes a difference). I took and closed it and it closed fine, or I could open it and it would stay there as well. Somebody tell me if this is right, I was thinking it should be connected to something or springloaded somehow. Also can someone tell me how to check the floats on this carb to see if they are sticking.

I also just changed the plugs and took off the valve cover to inspect the seals, but they looked to be in great shape. Wires look good visually. Any other suggestions for tune up. BTW the engine is filthy with oil residue some of which seems to be coming from the oil fill breather cap thingy, any harm in cleaning the engine with engine degreaser and then rinsing off?

Cloaked
05-06-2006, 06:29 PM
Put a spacer plate under the carb.

Search the forum for many opinions and suggestions but the plate is the fix for your woes.

The two screws are the air adjustments. All the way in and back each out about 1/2 turn and tweak until the engine smooths, running at about 2000 rpms. You can run the engine in the driveway with a water hose into the tranny cooler / pickup or some other gadget folks talk about here....

The floats will be OK unless you see one of two things... abundant fuel pouring into the carb upon throttle or no fuel upon throttle.

If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

The 4010 is notorious for not starting at operating temps, thus the plate to resolve that issue.

The choke is operated by the coil pack on the side of the carb.

east tx skier
05-06-2006, 07:25 PM
I always had the spacer on mine and it never resolved the issues. Supposedly, some adjustment to float level will make it better, but my guys could never get it going, even after a rebuild. Jim@BAWS may be of some assistance here. I seem to remember him telling me that he had been able to get them to work. ICBW.

hz900
05-06-2006, 09:33 PM
Put a spacer plate under the carb.

Search the forum for many opinions and suggestions but the plate is the fix for your woes.

The two screws are the air adjustments. All the way in and back each out about 1/2 turn and tweak until the engine smooths, running at about 2000 rpms. You can run the engine in the driveway with a water hose into the tranny cooler / pickup or some other gadget folks talk about here....

The floats will be OK unless you see one of two things... abundant fuel pouring into the carb upon throttle or no fuel upon throttle.

If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

The 4010 is notorious for not starting at operating temps, thus the plate to resolve that issue.

The choke is operated by the coil pack on the side of the carb.


Where would I get a spacer plate (part # if you have it) and how thick should it be?

Cloaked
05-06-2006, 09:40 PM
Where would I get a spacer plate (part # if you have it) and how thick should it be?My suggestions have been from my experience, and as you see, East TX has a different opinion on the matter, which is perfectly fine.

Have a look see here ==> http://www.mortec.com/carbs.htm for additional info.

In addition, two more reliable resources of info are:

1) www.skidim.com

2) http://www.bayareawatersports.com/

A phone call to the technical service departments will be beneficial.



And as a reference site ==> http://www.holley.com/types.asp?type=21

east tx skier
05-07-2006, 11:54 AM
My suggestions have been from my experience, and as you see, East TX has a different opinion on the matter, which is perfectly fine.


As Sporty says, while my opinion is ultimately different, I did intent to convey that there are some who will say that this carburetor can be adjusted to perform well.

But if we are talking about the 1.5" spacer, I'm almost positive I've got this on my boat FWIW. I looked to see if I could find a picture of it at skidim, but couldn't find it.

Wes
05-07-2006, 03:16 PM
I had the same problem with my 4010 and finally got rid of it, I replaced it with an Edelbrock Marine Carb. Although it ran fine with the Edelbrock, it had a problem of having gas spill over into the chambers beside the secondarys. Edelbrock could not come up with any solutions, and I was going to take it back and bite the bullet and get a 4160 Holley, but decided to try a wedge plate, took a bit of customization to install it, but it did the trick. Boat runs awesome and so far no fuel lying around in the carb.

hz900
05-10-2006, 07:45 PM
Picked up a spacer (free) from Mechanic friend of mine. I was going to put it on and noticed that there is already some sort of spacer between the carb and manifold. There are two of them stacked totalling about 1-1.5" thick. The manifold is painted black and so are the spacers. Are these from the factory, or has the spacer mod already been done on my boat?

Hoosier Bob
05-10-2006, 08:21 PM
Assuming timing , plugs and wires are AOK go to the local automotive outlet store (PEP/ZONE ETC) and get the haynes HOLLEY CARBURETOR MANUEL/TECHBOOK. The 4010 is a bad arse carb but just like anything HIPO it requires attention. I have little glitches early every year but a good cleaning always clears all up. The carb performs flawlessly when set correctly. Get the manual and it will guide you through troubleshooting and setup. By the way the correct setting for the idle mixture screws you were speaking of is 1.5-2 full turns out from the lightly seated position. Any other questions I will try to help. Trial and error but remember blower on and follow instructions.
See yah! :banana: Picked up a spacer (free) from Mechanic friend of mine. I was going to put it on and noticed that there is already some sort of spacer between the carb and manifold. There are two of them stacked totalling about 1-1.5" thick. The manifold is painted black and so are the spacers. Are these from the factory, or has the spacer mod already been done on my boat?