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BrianM
04-25-2006, 08:58 PM
I had a few light scratches on my boat around the transom from skies and maybe the dock (don't know exactly they were there from previous owner). Being the perfectionist that I am they drove me nuts so I decided to tackle wet sanding them out. These scratches were deep enough that rubbing compound alone would not get them out but when you ran a nail over them you could just barely feel it catch.

Started out with 600 grit sandpaper keeping it very wet (just a couple of drops of soap in the water) and sanding in very small circular motion. Just worked the paper and rinsed frequently to check progress. As soon as the scratch vanished I rinsed and then dried the area and moved on.

Next step was 1500 grit paper. Again working in small circular motion keeping very wet. Just worked the 1500 over the area and just past were I had sanded with the 600. Rinsed and then dried.

Now I went to 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound. I just rubbed firmly by hand until it basicly wiped away then wiped of any remaining reside with a clean cloth. After this the area looked almost perfect but just a little duller than the rest of the gel.

Finally I finished off with a little3M Cleaner Wax. This has a very light compound in it with the wax. Again just worked this in firmly by hand. Let dry to a hazed and then buffed with a clean cloth.

Results are perfect. :banana:Sorry no pictures but I have another small area to do and will get some before and after pictures. A little intimidating at first to take the sand paper to the side of the boat :eek3:but worth it.

SKI*MC
04-25-2006, 09:10 PM
an easy cure to the scraches on the back. A home made transom saver.

east tx skier
04-25-2006, 10:04 PM
Good work, Brian. While I had mine at my local dealer, they took out a scratch from the P.O. that had always bugged me with an orbital buffer. Followed with a polish and a wax, it's like it was never there. They wet sanded out another one that the metal bit of the boat buddy (exposed after 13 years) left. It feels good to get a long time thorn in my boat's side removed.

BuoyChaser
04-25-2006, 10:08 PM
an easy cure to the scraches on the back. A home made transom saver.
easier and cheaper than that, make all beginners put their skis on in the water!!! :)

vogelm1
04-25-2006, 10:14 PM
an easy cure to the scraches on the back. A home made transom saver.
Nice work Ski*MC! Is there a local lumber dealer by you that carries teak? I assume that was teak - sure looks like it anyway. Would be helpful to know...next time I'm down at the cabin I'd probably pick up a chunk. I was thinking about ordering the "transom saver" through the dealer in town here, but I would enjoy making it more.

roddydog
04-25-2006, 10:16 PM
That's good!!

I have also seen (on here I believe) A clear film sticker that you can apply on the transom, can't see it and it absorbs all kind of abuse.

TMCNo1
04-25-2006, 10:20 PM
BrianM,
Now I went to 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound. I just rubbed firmly by hand until it basicly wiped away then wiped of any remaining reside with a clean cloth. After this the area looked almost perfect but just a little duller than the rest of the gel.

[/QUOTE]


Another, simpler way to remove sanding marks after using 1000, 1500, 2000, wet/dry sand paper, rather than using compound is BlueMagic, Flitz, paste type metal polishes and a 7" drill mounted buffing pad from Ace Hardware. Dampen the buffing pad with water prior to using to reduce dust from the pad going everywhere and start polishing at slow speed then increase speed to finish. Also apply and polish area with wax using the same buffing pad, you will never see where you removed the light scratches. I learned this trick from a fellow who restores and shows Corvettes.

BrianM
04-25-2006, 10:28 PM
Another, simpler way to remove sanding marks after using 1000, 1500, 2000, wet/dry sand paper, rather than using compound is BlueMagic, Flitz, paste type metal polishes and a 7" drill mounted buffing pad from Ace Hardware. Dampen the buffing pad with water prior to using to reduce dust from the pad going everywhere and start polishing at slow speed then increase speed to finish. Also apply and polish area with wax using the same buffing pad, you will never see where you removed the light scratches. I learned this trick from a fellow who restores and shows Corvettes.

Thanks for the tip, but in this case the area that I was doing was about the size of my hand and I had it rubbed out in the time it would have taken me just to find the drill.

SKI*MC
04-25-2006, 10:42 PM
Nice work Ski*MC! Is there a local lumber dealer by you that carries teak? I assume that was teak - sure looks like it anyway. Would be helpful to know...next time I'm down at the cabin I'd probably pick up a chunk. I was thinking about ordering the "transom saver" through the dealer in town here, but I would enjoy making it more.


No, ita actually not teak, but i remember how evpensive it was for a piece of lumber for it. I will ask what kind it was, i dont remember off the top of my head. But it was a hard wood, that resists the elements. We used teak oil on it, to get it as close to the platform color as posible.

Thrall
04-26-2006, 09:48 AM
It's nice to be able to do that little stuff to keep the boat looking nice.
I had the pleasure of spending an entire weekend w/ several packs of wet/dry paper and a polisher getting my boat cleaned up when I bought it (price was right though).
Only thing I'd suggest next time you have to pull out some scratches, if you're starting w/ 600 grit for deeper scratches, use 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 in order. It will take the sand scratches out easier and then buff and polish.

BrianM
04-26-2006, 10:43 AM
It's nice to be able to do that little stuff to keep the boat looking nice.
I had the pleasure of spending an entire weekend w/ several packs of wet/dry paper and a polisher getting my boat cleaned up when I bought it (price was right though).
Only thing I'd suggest next time you have to pull out some scratches, if you're starting w/ 600 grit for deeper scratches, use 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 in order. It will take the sand scratches out easier and then buff and polish.

I read a lot of articles all over the web about scratch repair and from what I read and now my experience I do not think that it is necessary to use all of those grades of paper. From my reading the scraches from the 600 could actually be removed with the compound. Using the 1500 after the 600 made those scratches go away much faster though. After the 1500 there were no scratches visable just a little dullness. The 3M Super Duty Compound is basicly the same as using a 2000 grit paper. With the results I got and the ease of getting the extremely fine 600 scratches out with the 1500 I just don't see a need for using a 1000 and 1200 in between.

BrianM
04-26-2006, 10:46 AM
easier and cheaper than that, make all beginners put their skis on in the water!!! :)

That little scratch on the upper left side of your photo will disappear using the same steps I did. The ones I took out were about 3 or 4 that size in the same general location. Looks good as new.

BuoyChaser
04-27-2006, 02:02 PM
Using the 1500 after the 600 made those scratches go away much faster though. After the 1500 there were no scratches visable just a little dullness. The 3M Super Duty Compound is basicly the same as using a 2000 grit paper. With the results I got and the ease of getting the extremely fine 600 scratches out with the 1500 I just don't see a need for using a 1000 and 1200 in between.

so your steps, you use the 1500 paper first then the 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound (model# 09004 16oz)???do you do all this by hand or Orbital Buffer or Drill with 3M Superbuff Adapter???

what type of application or cutting pad are you using???

i've got an old Sunfish sailboat i want to work on this winter, have a couple wakeboarders looking at my '85 I'm selling so have a feeling they won't be taking as good of care of it!!!