View Full Version : Do I need a new actuator?

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 09:23 PM
So I've noticed that I'm losing some brake fluid out of my actuator. Can this be repaired (assuming I can find the leak), or do I need to replace the actuator?

Assuming I need to replace it, what's involved with that. Would you leave it to your dealer or would you DIY (and by you, I mean me).

Dorsey has the UFP actuator for $139.

04-24-2006, 09:34 PM
It may not need replace, where is the leak coming from? It may be were the line enters the actuator.

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 09:38 PM
It's coming from around the ball coupling. Seems a good distance from the reservoir.

04-24-2006, 09:40 PM
OK, your screwed.

Just kiddin, I got nutin.

04-24-2006, 09:41 PM
You can order the parts direct from UFP and replace what is leaking. Their number is (800)835-9211. I rebuilt mine 2 years ago. The master cylinder was $45.03. PM me and I can e-mail you a *.pdf of the entire manual including the troubleshooting guide and the exploded parts list.

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 09:46 PM
Thanks, Johnny. I was just on the UFP website looking at that. I had the master cylinder replaced two years ago. I'm thinking of just running it over to the brake place that worked on it and have them look at it.

04-24-2006, 09:51 PM
DIY on this is actually very easy. You may want to invest in a vacuum bleader pump if you do it yourself. It makes putting in new fluid and bleeding lines much easier. Also, when I did mine, I ordered a brake line kit out of overtons that was all synthetic tubing....easy to install and no rust to worry about.


I ordered the single axle brake kit. I probably replaced the lines start-to-finish in well under 2 hours, including bleeding.

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 09:59 PM
Actually, when I got the new master cylinder put in, I got all new stainless lines put in as well. 93 had some weird sheath around the lines. Rust was almost a given. New wheel cylinders, too.

04-24-2006, 10:26 PM
SO you have a new master cylinder and stainless lines?

What is in the actuator anyway? I thought it was just a spring loaded rod back to the mastercylinder? Didn't know there was any fluid in the actuator.

04-25-2006, 07:50 AM
The actuator was leaking on my '93 trailer as well. I just replaced the whole thing rather than bother with trying to figure out what was leaking.

It is pretty easy.

1. Disconnect brake line at back of actuator.
2. Use snap ring pliers remove the snap rings from the 2 pins.
3. Pull actuator out.

Beware, those 2 pins hold everything in the actuator together. When you pull it out, all the pieces will fall out the bottom if you don't hold them in there.

Likewise, when installing the new one, you have to hold it all together until it is inside the trailer tubing. Someone here gave me a good tip. Use a piece of dowel rod that is cut to length to just fit inside the trailer tubing. Use that to hold the actuator together, then just drive it out with the pins when you install them. You can also use a socket to do the same thing.

east tx skier
04-25-2006, 09:54 AM
Leroy, yes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and lines were replaced in 04. For some reason, I thought that there was a fluid reservoir (which I thought could be the culprit).

Pete, thanks for the rundown on the R&R.