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View Full Version : Decal Install tips and tricks


JohnnyB
04-23-2006, 09:40 PM
Got my new decals from BAWS when they bought all the old model decals from MC.

Old ones came off of my boat relatively easy with a heat gun on low heat.....now I'd like to put the new ones on but need to make sure they cover where I took the old ones off.....

Anybody have tips or tricks to share for putting on new decals? Positioning in my case is somewhat important....

I saw a product called sticker-on in Overtons, would this help?

:confused: :confused: :confused:

87MC owner
04-23-2006, 09:44 PM
When reapplying decals spray the area with a very mild soapy water, this will allow you to reposition the decals for accurate placement. Once you have them where you want them, simply use a towel to gently push the water to the edge of the sticker. If no bubbles exist the decals will dry beautifully.

JohnnyB
04-23-2006, 10:21 PM
Will this work with the rub-on style decals? How long do you let them dry before you peel the backer off of the "non-boat" or "non-sticky" side?

erkoehler
04-23-2006, 10:37 PM
Will this work with the rub-on style decals? How long do you let them dry before you peel the backer off of the "non-boat" or "non-sticky" side?


If you put the soapy water on, it is going to have to dry before you pull the "tape" off....is that what your talking about?

vogelm1
04-24-2006, 12:40 PM
I've used the soapy-water trick as mentioned above, for just about any adhesive-backed decal you can think of and it works excellent. A teaspoon of dish washing soap into an empty windex bottle, fill with water and spray down the area to apply...squeegee out the water or blot down with a towel. Let dry really well before peeling off the carrier paper - pull back a corner and see if the decal comes with. If so, give it another couple hours to dry.

JohnnyB
04-24-2006, 01:40 PM
Erk....peeling the "tape" off is what I was talking about. I talked to a guy that prints vinyl adhesives as a side business and he walked me through it in great detail. He uses soap to position and then squeegees (sp?) all the water out from underneath. The most important thing he said was to pull the tape parallel to the surface (180deg angle) and not at a 90deg angle.

Thanks to all of you for the help....I'll let you know how it goes.

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 02:32 PM
Soapy water is the ticket. When I did the woodgrain on my old jeep, I used a soft plastic "spatula" (not like the kitchen utensil) to smooth out the air bubbles.

88 PS190
04-24-2006, 03:09 PM
Like a bondo knife?

east tx skier
04-24-2006, 03:24 PM
I think it's called a "rubber burnisher." Personally, I might opt for a rubber squeegie.

TMCNo1
04-24-2006, 06:32 PM
A quick trip to one of your local vinyl sign shops will usually get you a couple of 3M or equal plastic and or nylon squeegies that they use and or supply with decals they produce for customers. Auto body/paint supply houses also carry them for sale to body shops and the general public. Sign shops buy them by the case for pennies and will usually give you a couple for your possible future business.
A good application fluid mixture is 1/2 bottle of window cleaner with 2 tablespoons Dawn dish detergent topped off with water. You need the window cleaner in it to accelerate the evaporation as you squeegie out the fluid from under the adhesive, so you can remove the transfer paper more quickly. I have been using this mixture for 30 years in my sign business, although I do not produce vinyl decals, I have shops I buy decals from for my customers needs and apply for my customers. This mixture is also what most sign shops use rather than the commercially available application fluid at 5 times the price.
Use masking tape as a guide, when you lay out the location of your decals for the top and left leading edge of decals before application, by placing the decal against the tape edge. It shows through the transfer paper and will peel off when the transfer paper is removed.

Thrall
04-24-2006, 07:36 PM
When I put the new decals on my '96, I didn't use soapy water for placement. In fact, I only use that method if I'm applying a large surface area decal, like our Company logos on vehicles which are a solid 14"-16" oval, that have alot of potential for air bubbles.
The only problem I encountered, and it was a BIATCH!, was the old OEM gunwale decals, the MASTERCRAFT and the PROSTAR 190 stickers, were adhered to the face backing better than to the boat. It took me several hours to peel the covers off the decals. I used a newer style decal on the transom and didnt have any troubles w/it.

campbelljo
04-25-2006, 12:36 PM
This may be a little hard to explain, try trimming the backing very close to the decal at the top, spray the area with a solution, position the decal exactly like you want it and tape the very top as many places as neccessary. Leave all the edges and bottom untaped. Now flip the decal up (picking up the bottom) remove the backing tape and allow the decal to flip back in place. The tape at the top should act like a hinge and the backing should be able to be removed without disturbing the position of the decal. The solution will allow you to remove the air bubbles.

Danimal
04-25-2006, 06:29 PM
This isn't exactly how I do it but I have seen some people do it this way.

Boat Decal Application Tutorial (http://www.motorcyclesafe.com/video/installing%20truck%20lettering%20boat%20name%20dec als.hi-res.wmv)

JohnnyB
04-29-2006, 06:00 PM
I put my new decals on today. Didn't use soap spray and really didn't have issues with any air bubbles. Used masking tape below and to the left edge to line up the decal once the backing was peeled off. All went well....i'll post pics....downloading from the camera and cleaning up right now.

NEW ISSUE....the older MC stickers (probably original 92 stickers) left some adhesive residue on the vinyl....any ideas as to what is best to remove this???? I was thinking Goof-off or denatured alcohol....

JohnnyB
04-29-2006, 07:39 PM
You can see the entire boat in the Marketplace and in the MCs for sale thread....here are my new decal pics....

JohnnyB
04-29-2006, 07:40 PM
and another....

Larryp
04-29-2006, 09:59 PM
When I put the new decals on my '96, I didn't use soapy water for placement. In fact, I only use that method if I'm applying a large surface area decal, like our Company logos on vehicles which are a solid 14"-16" oval, that have alot of potential for air bubbles.
The only problem I encountered, and it was a BIATCH!, was the old OEM gunwale decals, the MASTERCRAFT and the PROSTAR 190 stickers, were adhered to the face backing better than to the boat. It took me several hours to peel the covers off the decals. I used a newer style decal on the transom and didnt have any troubles w/it.
I am having the same problem, right now I have no decals due to this. how did you get them to work.

Farmer Ted
04-29-2006, 10:08 PM
I put my new decals on today. Didn't use soap spray and really didn't have issues with any air bubbles. Used masking tape below and to the left edge to line up the decal once the backing was peeled off. All went well....i'll post pics....downloading from the camera and cleaning up right now.

NEW ISSUE....the older MC stickers (probably original 92 stickers) left some adhesive residue on the vinyl....any ideas as to what is best to remove this???? I was thinking Goof-off or denatured alcohol....


did you try acetone?

I was told to use this to get the boat buddy marks off the front

TMCNo1
04-30-2006, 07:42 AM
[QUOTE=Farmer Ted]did you try acetone?

I was told to use this to get the boat buddy marks off the front[/QUOTE

Acetone can attack to gelcoat and the vinyl, try alcohol, then apply a coat of wax.

Larryp
05-18-2006, 11:11 PM
actually I meant to say the stickers stick to the backing, the masking tape will not pull them off the backing, have spoke to my dealer and she is talking to MC warranty, right now my boat is stickerless what can I do.

Larryp
05-19-2006, 11:07 PM
any ideas on this?

Hoosier Bob
05-19-2006, 11:11 PM
Yes I do! I purchased new decals for my MC 2 years ago and I had the same problem. My sollution as always with decals was my trusty hair dryer. I actually used a piano stool (flat and long) as my base and heated the decals until the primary backing came off. I then ran to the garage to place the decals in the nice taped off area I had set up.
Hope this helps and remember to go slow on those older decals. :D

Larryp
05-20-2006, 12:18 AM
Yes I do! I purchased new decals for my MC 2 years ago and I had the same problem. My sollution as always with decals was my trusty hair dryer. I actually used a piano stool (flat and long) as my base and heated the decals until the primary backing came off. I then ran to the garage to place the decals in the nice taped off area I had set up.
Hope this helps and remember to go slow on those older decals. :D
thanks, excellent idea

Hoosier Bob
05-20-2006, 12:21 AM
No problem LP! It is amazing what I can come up with after a twelve pack or so! ;)

mitch
05-21-2008, 09:53 PM
This isn't exactly how I do it but I have seen some people do it this way.

Boat Decal Application Tutorial (http://www.motorcyclesafe.com/video/installing%20truck%20lettering%20boat%20name%20dec als.hi-res.wmv)


Will the wet method work for the newer drip mold decals. Looks for tip on doing my transome decal, thx

badams
05-21-2008, 10:47 PM
I've used Sticker On to put stickers on the back window of my Tahoe. They sell it at Overtons.