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6ballsisall
04-19-2006, 02:50 PM
I need some good recommendations please! Our 95' is idling a little rough on occasion and my anal retentive self doesn't like it! it's not severe but she isn't purring like a kitten like normal.

Here is what spring maintence I've done

New Oil-engine and trans
New Impeller
New Thermostat
New Belt
New spark plugs-NGK-gapped and tested @ .045 as per specs

What I am going to do now:

New cap & rotor
New fuel filters

THe boat runs sweet once off idle but just has a little bit of a lope at idle I'd like to get rid of. It idles around the right speed so that seems ok. Any other things I should check out?

THanks!

erkoehler
04-19-2006, 02:53 PM
I'd go with new plug wire's first...probably do the fuel filter at the same time.

Both are inexpensive.

bcampbe7
04-19-2006, 02:57 PM
The '95 is EFI, correct?

I would also try some Seafoam in the tank. You should be able to find it at O'Reilly's or Napa.

Fuel filter, plugs, and wires is a good place to start also and doesn't hurt to change them every so often anyways.

Prostar19
04-19-2006, 02:58 PM
If you remove the center section of the back seat you will see a small fuel filter that most people do not know exists. That could be part of the problem. Have you inspeced the rotor and cap?

6ballsisall
04-19-2006, 03:04 PM
To answer questions, don't know about the quality of the cap and rotor. We bought the boat last year and didn't do one so I just bought one from Skidim and will put that in this weekend. I have to check out the fuel filter scenario because apparently in that year there are multiple styles.

It is a 275hp EFI/TBI Chevrolet motor.

JohnnyB
04-19-2006, 03:10 PM
I think you are headed down the right path.....nothing mentioned above is terribly expensive.

How bout going easiest to hardest/cheapest to most expensive......

1) is it last season's gas? You may consider running some isopropyl fuel addative in your tank...you may have some water accumulation
2) I'm not sure on the 95, but I'm assuming timing could be an issue that's easy to check (help on this one guys...)
3) check plug wires for wear, nicks, etc
4) change fuel filters
5) change cap and rotor
6) change wires

BrianM
04-19-2006, 03:15 PM
New Thermostat


THanks!

What temp thermostat are you running?

6ballsisall
04-19-2006, 03:18 PM
What temp thermostat are you running?


Whatever OEM is, I want to say thats 160??

BrianM
04-19-2006, 03:20 PM
Whatever OEM is, I want to say thats 160??

That is kind of the question. Seems that there is not necessarily an OEM t-stat. Where does your temp gauge run? What about you Erk?

east tx skier
04-19-2006, 03:22 PM
If you do the seafoam thing, warm it up, pour half the can slowly into the throttle body. Kill the engine and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Pour the rest of the can into the gas tank. After twenty minutes, crank it up and drive it like you stole it for a while.

As long as you're messing with all of this stuff, go ahead and clean the flame arrestor, too.

erkoehler
04-19-2006, 03:31 PM
That is kind of the question. Seems that there is not necessarily an OEM t-stat. Where does your temp gauge run? What about you Erk?


160 for me, and I believe that to be the stock one as well. Jrandol, I had to clean my flame arrestor last season as well, it does make a difference, and only costs about $5 to do.

JimN
04-19-2006, 03:52 PM
Cleaning the flame arrestor requires carb cleaner, about $3- $4 /can. I use the NAPA stuff in the blue can and it evaporates so fast that it forms frost on a hot day.

Usually, plugs or wires will make a TBI idle rough. Occasionally, my truck will do this and I spray carb cleaner on the outside of the injectors and let it sit. I know it sounds like BS but it does make a difference. It's also possible to have a bad spark plug, right out of the box. Why did you switch to NGK? I know they're good plugs but the MR43TS is a good plug, too. If the parts store says they can't get them, their supplier may not have them or they're lying and don't want to bother. I just got some for a friend's boat.

For cap & rotor, I use Borg Warner Gold series. This one has a 5 year warranty and does cost a bit more, but IMO, it has been worth it. Wires can definitely do this, too. Get some good ones. AC will work fine, or you can get Taylor from various places and online.

If you use SeaFoam or anything like that, it's best to do it before changing the filter(s) because in a plastic tank, crud can loosen and clog the first filter. No point killing a new one.

The TBI should be one of the smoothest engines you'll see. If it's rough on idle, there's something a bit off, somewhere. If you check the timing, you'll notice that it jumps around- don't worry about it, just get a scan tool, put it in 'Diagnostic Mode' and rev it to 1000 RPM. It should be rock solid.

peason
04-19-2006, 04:03 PM
I used to have my wife take the flame arrestor into the oil/lube shop and have them put it in thier parts washer- they always did it free for her. She's a lot better looking than I am!

east tx skier
04-19-2006, 04:09 PM
Cleaning the flame arrestor requires carb cleaner, about $3- $4 /can. I use the NAPA stuff in the blue can and it evaporates so fast that it forms frost on a hot day.

To clarify a bit (because I used to buy a ton of the stuff and soak my flame arrestor in it), I believe Jim is recommending the spray to be used away from paint and children and sprayed through the flame arrestor from the inside out.

6ballsisall
04-19-2006, 04:15 PM
The man has spoken!! Thank you Jim!!


Cleaning the flame arrestor requires carb cleaner, about $3- $4 /can. I use the NAPA stuff in the blue can and it evaporates so fast that it forms frost on a hot day. Thanks! I'll give that a shot

Usually, plugs or wires will make a TBI idle rough. Occasionally, my truck will do this and I spray carb cleaner on the outside of the injectors and let it sit. I know it sounds like BS but it does make a difference. It's also possible to have a bad spark plug, right out of the box. Why did you switch to NGK? I know they're good plugs but the MR43TS is a good plug, too. If the parts store says they can't get them, their supplier may not have them or they're lying and don't want to bother. I just got some for a friend's boat. The plugs I got from the local MC dealer, it's what they recommended as well.

For cap & rotor, I use Borg Warner Gold series. This one has a 5 year warranty and does cost a bit more, but IMO, it has been worth it. Wires can definitely do this, too. Get some good ones. AC will work fine, or you can get Taylor from various places and online. I have a new cap and rotor on the way from Skidim, whatever they sell is what I bought. The wires look really new and good, how can I tell if they are at fault?
If you use SeaFoam or anything like that, it's best to do it before changing the filter(s) because in a plastic tank, crud can loosen and clog the first filter. No point killing a new one.

The TBI should be one of the smoothest engines you'll see. If it's rough on idle, there's something a bit off, somewhere. If you check the timing, you'll notice that it jumps around- don't worry about it, just get a scan tool, put it in 'Diagnostic Mode' and rev it to 1000 RPM. It should be rock solid.

I'll check the timing with my light, what should the timing be at TDC for this motor? I remember when we bought it, it idled like a dream. I don't have a scan tool but it was in the dealer recently and they said they had it on the scan tool and found nothing out of whack.

jimmer2880
04-19-2006, 05:59 PM
If you remove the center section of the back seat you will see a small fuel filter that most people do not know exists. That could be part of the problem. Have you inspeced the rotor and cap?

My '95 PS190 stock didn't have one there. However, I added one because I kept clogging up the fuel pump screen.

My point is - not all '95's have a filter between the tank & the pump.

bcampbe7
04-19-2006, 06:01 PM
When all else fails, try taking it out and driving it like you stole it. Blow the smoke out! :woohoo:

Footin
04-19-2006, 10:00 PM
Jeff, I think you are on the right track. Change the two fuel filters, cap and rotor and fill it up with fresh gas. My guess is that it will run like a scalded dog.

jimmer2880
04-20-2006, 07:16 AM
My '95 PS190 stock didn't have one there. However, I added one because I kept clogging up the fuel pump screen.

My point is - not all '95's have a filter between the tank & the pump.

If you dont' have a filter between the tank & your pump (the pump should be at the rear of your motor box area), I'd also recommend checking your fuel-pump inlet screen. However, usually the boat will idle fine, but not have any arse out of the hole.

6ballsisall
04-23-2006, 09:05 AM
Well I replaced the cap & rotor. That rotor was a biatch to get off, it was on tight!! The cap???? Uh....... well lets just say I can't believe the boat ran!!! :eek: I couldn't even see the contacts as they were completely covered in corrosion!! I'll try and post pics.

I think I just gained about 50 hp!! :shocked:

JohnnyB
04-23-2006, 10:38 AM
Great to hear you solved your problem....interested to see the pics.

I replace my cap and rotar every-other year.....about 120-150 hours.

JimN
04-23-2006, 10:54 AM
One of the beauties of annual maintenance is that you don't have to go through all this because it usually runs right.

Base timing is 10 degrees BTDC but unless the distributor hold-down has been loosened, it hasn't changed since the last time it was set.

6ballsisall
04-23-2006, 10:58 AM
One of the beauties of annual maintenance is that you don't have to go through all this because it usually runs right.

Base timing is 10 degrees BTDC but unless the distributor hold-down has been loosened, it hasn't changed since the last time it was set.

Thanks Jim! I couldn't agree more on that!

I haven't got to run it yet but I am betting the new cap and rotor solved my rough idle issue completely. Can't wait to try it!!