View Full Version : Tandom Rt side brakes not locked up but not completly releasing
The two right side wheels get hot and stick on the disk brakes but the left side is not even warm after a few mile trip. The trailer is a 2003 MC built Torsion bar disk break surge unit. I am guessing I need to take the wheels on the right side off and clean the pistons but then I have another question how should I bleed the brakes after reinstalation, Is my logic for the fix sound right? The wheels go in the water then sit for a while, the two on the right must be a just luck but there could not be an issue with the surge could there since the two on the left work perfect. Your help would be great! :confused:
04-18-2006, 03:09 PM
Have you checked for a kinked brake line? The actuator can create enough pressure to apply the brakes but the kink will hold the pressure and not allow the brakes to release.
There is a single line that comes back to a 'T' at the axle. Maybe the line going to the right side is kinked?
Just a WAG.
Workin' 4 Toys
04-18-2006, 07:02 PM
You are not going to want to hear this.
I'd say you need to replace the calipers with the "NEW" style. Better do pads too.
I got under the trailer and looked, the lines are not kinked and seem in good condition to the right side. I was hopeful in the suggestion that the line to the right two wheels got kinked somehow. It looks like the calipers are where the problem is. Is there any way to take them apart and fix the problem? what if I clean the piston and reasemble. The issue of bleeding still becomes a problem. Is a power bleeder from the wheel going to work. I have bleed cars but the pedal makes it easy.
04-19-2006, 09:56 AM
Actually, bleeding them is not all that bad, but you will need two people. All you have to do is open the release by the hub, and have someone compress the head of the trailer, then tighten the release plug, and let the head back out. Repeat several times and you are good to go.
Just a thought...Have you checked the bearings to make sure they are OK. Is the oil in the oil bath full and not diluted with water? If you have to take it all apart anyways, be sure to check this out.
Also, try talking to your dealer, maybe MC or the the company that makes the braking system had a recall, or will warranty it...never hurts to ask.
I had the same problem with my 2003 MC trailer. Bad design of the calipers. After the brake pads wear down to 50%, the pistons start sticking and won't retract. Cleaning them can help a little but the more the piston extends out of the bore, the more it will start to stick trying to retract.
SERVICE ADVISORY No. 2004.SEPT20.SA-001 Subject: Disc Brake Caliper Troubleshooting Model: All Trailers CONDITION: Most caliper issues are associated with brakes that donít release properly or seem to stay on longer than they should. Usually, this can be caused by one of two causes: a) Guide bushings need lubrication; or b) The piston is stuck out when the brakes are applied. If either condition exists, the guide bushings should be examined to assure the bushings can slide freely inside the caliper.
I did some research on this. Thank you all for the suggestions! FYI... what I found was that the caliper manufacture is the source of the problem. It was a quicandence that the rt. side both axles went first. All the calipers are going to need to be replaced with the better design. Your suggestions to look at the brake line was a good one but the end result is that the calipers will all have to be replaced. I will add that MC stands behind there product extremly well and will probably take care of this. Another reason to buy right and choose MC.
Workin' 4 Toys
04-19-2006, 07:49 PM
Yes, the calipers need replacement, don't bother with the ones you have.
Even if they don't cover them for you, change them anyway. BE VERY careful bleeding them. They have the bleeder design that is not USER friendly if you are use to tightening the old style. Be VERY careful you don't snap the "inner" bleeder off. Don't say I didn't warn you.