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NatesGr8
04-17-2006, 11:15 PM
So have any of you LT-1 guys needed to replace the alternator in your boat? If so, where'd you get it and how much did you pay. Talked to skidim today, they want close to 300 for a new one. I'm trying to find a marine alternator, with a bit more amperage that fits the lt-1, if anyone has suggestions please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Nathan

JimN
04-17-2006, 11:21 PM
Go to a shop that rebuilds alternators, starters and other motors. They will (or should) be able to do it to marine standards. It'll save a lot of money. They may be able to increase the output, too.

NatesGr8
04-18-2006, 08:34 AM
okay, thanks. i'll go through the local yellow pages today and give that a shot.

Workin' 4 Toys
04-18-2006, 09:39 AM
I agree with JimN.
I had a non-marine alternator in the past go out, it was going to be $300+(I am not a fan of autoparts rebuilt units).
I was refered to a guy by a friend that rebuilds them. He replaced everything inside including bumping the amps up a touch, if I recall it was $120.00. He was able to do ANY alternator/starter.
A good find.

JimN
04-18-2006, 09:43 AM
Nate- when you find a rebulder, ask them which dealers and repair shops they do them for. If they list most of the dealers in town, go there.

NatesGr8
04-18-2006, 12:45 PM
here's one i found in my home town http://www.barbinelectric.com/indexx.shtml
they seem to be pretty good. a buddy of mine recommended them, he's in the auto repair buisness. so as soon as i get the alternator out i'll be dropping it off there. thanks for all the input and help.

Nate

Engine Nut
04-18-2006, 01:10 PM
The alternator on your engine is 55Amps. The wiring between the alternator and starter solenoid as well as the ground from the alternator is sized for a 55A alternator. If you bump up the alternator output, you also need to increase the wire size appropriately.

Engine Nut

NatesGr8
04-26-2006, 12:37 PM
about a week and $90 later my alternator is as good as new. thanks to everyone who suggested the rebuild approach. happy boating :woohoo:

Workin' 4 Toys
04-27-2006, 06:06 PM
about a week and $90 later my alternator is as good as new. thanks to everyone who suggested the rebuild approach. happy boating :woohoo:
Did they run a test on it afterwards for volts and amps? Did they tell you the results of that test?

formosa
07-16-2007, 03:43 PM
I went to arco marine. They were incredibly helpful and knowledgable - they don't know the boat, but given the engine and a couple of questions they zero'd in on the part. They knew the history of the part and even recommended the current replacement (which provides more output 70amp). Evidently they have been doing this for a long time.

Make sure you mention if the pully is V or serpentine - different part number. Arco part for 1995 LT-1 (exact replacement 60055) - current late model replacement 20820 (with 65mm serp pulley).

www.arcomarine.com

Engine Nut
07-16-2007, 08:18 PM
I went to arco marine. They were incredibly helpful and knowledgable - they don't know the boat, but given the engine and a couple of questions they zero'd in on the part. They knew the history of the part and even recommended the current replacement (which provides more output 70amp). Evidently they have been doing this for a long time.

Make sure you mention if the pully is V or serpentine - different part number. Arco part for 1995 LT-1 (exact replacement 60055) - current late model replacement 20820 (with 65mm serp pulley).

www.arcomarine.com

Remember, the wiring in the wiring harnes is sized for a 55A alternator. Changing to 70A without changing the wiring is asking for trouble... besides being in violation of Coast Guard regulations.

Engine Nut

formosa
07-20-2007, 09:31 PM
Good point and thanks. From your note (thanks again) I did change the wiring from the 10 AWG (55amps) to 8 AWG (73amps) - used ANCOR marine wire from WestMarine (there's one down the street). The entire path from the Alternator B+ to the Starter/+Battery cable is now 8 AWG. On my 1995 VRS LT-1 it is three wires with standard lugs make up the path.

As you said "harness" are there other wires to change out?

formosa
07-20-2007, 09:31 PM
Good point and thanks. From your note (thanks again) I did change the wiring from the 10 AWG (55amps) to 8 AWG (73amps) - used ANCOR marine wire from WestMarine (there's one down the street). The entire path from the Alternator B+ to the Starter/+Battery cable is now 8 AWG. On my 1995 VRS LT-1 it is three wires with standard lugs make up the path.

As you said "harness" are there other wires to change out?

Engine Nut
07-21-2007, 07:49 AM
No, you did what was needed. When I referrec to a harness I was referring to a herness that we had made up for our alternator upgrade kits whitch is basically what you did.

Larry

rem_pss308
06-16-2009, 09:12 AM
I need to upgrade my wires too.
My new alternator recomends 4 gauge wire.

Do Inderstand correctly that only the one wire needs to be upgraded?

MIne has three wires.

And is it ok to wire it to the same spot where the Starter wire is hooked to the starter?

JimN
06-16-2009, 09:42 AM
I need to upgrade my wires too.
My new alternator recomends 4 gauge wire.

Do Inderstand correctly that only the one wire needs to be upgraded?

MIne has three wires.

And is it ok to wire it to the same spot where the Starter wire is hooked to the starter?

The purple wire doesn't carry much current, so that can stay as is. The others need to be larger.

BriEOD
06-16-2009, 09:55 AM
Jim--


Just the charging lead, or the lead and ground?

JimN
06-16-2009, 10:15 AM
Jim--


Just the charging lead, or the lead and ground?

Sorry I omitted this, I would upgrade the ground, too. I think we need a clarification on this from EngineNut- any chance of a diagram that shows where the alternator ground wire is connected on the other end? I would assume that it goes to the ground stud on the rear of the motor but I would also assume that the alternator grounds pretty well through it's bracketing, too. Obviously, these connections can degrade over time but unless the bolts are loose and corroded, I would think that it should work for most normal applications..

BriEOD
06-16-2009, 10:38 AM
Sorry I omitted this, I would upgrade the ground, too. I think we need a clarification on this from EngineNut- any chance of a diagram that shows where the alternator ground wire is connected on the other end? I would assume that it goes to the ground stud on the rear of the motor but I would also assume that the alternator grounds pretty well through it's bracketing, too. Obviously, these connections can degrade over time but unless the bolts are loose and corroded, I would think that it should work for most normal applications..

I concur. Thx!

rem_pss308
06-16-2009, 11:17 AM
I talked to the people at DB electrical where I purchased the alternator, and they advised me that Only the wire going to the battery needs to be upgraded.

the other two wires do not need it.