View Full Version : anti-freeze or not to anti-freeze

09-28-2004, 08:01 AM
Just woundering what everyone else thought. Do you guys use anti-freeze to winterize or not. I live in Michigan so it gets real cold in the winter. I hear different things about it. I have a 2002 197 and this is the first year i'm going to winterize it myself.

Zach S
09-28-2004, 08:41 AM
Same question. I have an '85 S&S. I live in central IL. and the winters can get pretty rough as well.

09-28-2004, 08:45 AM
Well, I keep my boat in my basement where the temp never gets below 55-60F and I still use the pink antifreeze every winter. I've been told that it helps prevent rust from forming inside the engine, as well as providing protection from freezing. Since the antifreeze is relatively inexpensive and the work is pretty simple there's no way I wouldn't use it if I stored my boat in colder temps. :twocents:

09-28-2004, 09:19 AM

Dan K
09-28-2004, 09:23 AM
I have always used RV anti-freeze usually the -100 type on my 81.
I warm the engine up good and then suck 4 gallons out of a bucket using the raw water intake that I disconnected. I wait until I have a good amount of it coming out the exhaust and then fog the engine to a stall. Never had a problem doing this in northern Michigan, boat is stored outside.

09-28-2004, 09:26 AM
The motor is cast iron, so if there's any water in it, there will be rust. It may rust a bit less with anti-freeze, but if you look at what comes out of the exhaust the first time running in spring, it has rust in it. If the block, hoses, etc have been drained, the little bit of water that stays won't expand enough to crack anything because there's much more air than water. You can use RV anti-freeze if you want, but you need to run enough through that it comes out the exhaust and then check what's in the block on both sides when you're done. This way, you know that the anti-freeze is in the motor, but you don't know how well it'll work unless you have a refractometer.

09-28-2004, 09:39 AM
I change the oil. Drain the block. Fill-up a 5 gallon bucket with 50-50 auto anti-freez, suck it through the intake until it comes out the exhaust. Put the cover on it, back it in the barn. :cry:

09-28-2004, 10:10 AM
Since I have an LT1 with aluminum heads, I follow the advice of Brother Jimn and drain the block, disconnect the hoses and remove the impellor. Note: also tilt the trailer 9with the trailer jack) to several angles to promote draining

Prior to this I change the fluids and fog the engine...starts right up in the spring. For those afraid of cold temps, I live in Toronto, Canada and this procedure works without any problems.

09-28-2004, 10:22 AM
I use to drain the block at the lake after my last outing of the year, on the way home I would leave the drain plugs and petcocks open. The bouncing of the trailer on the way home would get more of the water out of the block.

09-28-2004, 10:33 AM
That's a good way to do it, but removing the petcock body lets the water gush out instead of just trickling. You also have instant indication of whether the area around the petcock has any sand or silt, which can clog the small opening in the petcock.

09-28-2004, 10:44 AM
Good point Jim.