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View Full Version : Raw Water Pump Seal Replacement


wakebdr2002
03-30-2006, 11:36 PM
My raw water pump is leaking out of the back, so I ordered a replacement seal from Skidim. The people from skidim told me to just remove the impellar and pull the seal out with some needle nose pliers. I worked on this for several hours, but could only get small chunks of rubber. The seal seams like it is super glued to the pump housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this out? (I have an 01 X star so theres not much room to get at the pump)

Engine Nut
03-31-2006, 09:22 AM
I have attached a set of instructions for rebuilding the raw water pump. Hope this helps.

Engine Nut

Tom023
03-31-2006, 09:28 AM
Great instructions Engine Nut, thanks! I replaced the seal last fall and sure could have used them as I found the seal impossible to to pull out with pliers as wakebdr2002 is trying to do. I wound up separating the two parts of the pump as shown and punched the seal out from behind. It's pretty easy to do, the instructions make it even easier.

wakebdr2002
03-31-2006, 09:47 AM
Thanks - that helps alot. I was attempting to remove the pump last night but the 1/4 allen bolt that attaches the pump to the bracket would not come off. I guess I just need some WD-40, and a 1/4 hex on 3/8 breaker bar.

Tom023
04-12-2006, 08:58 PM
For those of you who have replaced their seal on a Johnson pump, did it look like this? I replaced mine this fall and the one I took out and the one I put in (from Skidim) were the same size as this but they did not have the steel inner part this one has. Instead, they had a metal band or spring around the outside to press the seal against the shaft. I got this one in a kit and am wondering if it's on old or new design.

Engine Nut
04-13-2006, 11:04 AM
I checked our inventory and none of the raw water pump shaft seals that we have look tlike the one in the photo. They are all rubber encapsulated seals with garter springs. Our seals conme directly from Johnson Pump.

Engine Nut

Tom023
04-13-2006, 11:06 AM
Thanks engine nut, that sounds like what I have in right now. I think I'll take this kit back and go with the one I know is right.

BrianM
04-13-2006, 11:39 AM
I replaced mine last year in my '88 with the seal from DIM.. Looked a little different than the one that came out but worked great.

pkskier
04-13-2006, 12:07 PM
I replaced the seal in my '87 TriStar two years ago and it started leaking again about 2 weeks later. Did some checking out and was told to check the play in the shaft and that was the problem. After all the hours the pump shaft had just worn out, bought a complete new pump from the local dealer.

Kummer
09-10-2008, 09:55 AM
Can someone help me in removing the pump ? I have removed the bolts and the mounting arm but still can not get the pump to break loose. I sprayed it with "PB Blaster" to possibly break it loose so I plan on checking this tonight.. There are only three bolts right? Any suggestions? I am only replacing the seal and don't want to damage the pump in the process.

Kummer
09-21-2008, 11:29 PM
I have not been able to replace the raw water pump seal -
1. I removed the three Allen bolts holding the pump
2. removed the mounting bracket.

should the pump not come right off? I dont want to damage it but I cant seem to get it loose.

See the picture to get an idea. short of pounding it with a sledge hammer I am out of options. My next step it to put it back to geather and try to get the oring out and not remove the pump just the impeller. I know there has to be a trick to it. so Please can someone help me out here?:confused:

MK

agarabaghi
07-11-2011, 09:21 AM
any luck removing the pump??

Lt.@324
07-31-2011, 02:37 PM
I have attached a set of instructions for rebuilding the raw water pump. Hope this helps.

Engine Nut

hey engine nut, great instruction but still looks a little tough without some tools. also where do you obtain the parts? can you order straight from Johnson or Indmar? not sure mine is bad though. getting a circulating pump rattle(like an auto) but no leaks and temp staying good even with 90 deg lake temp. with raw water pump off and impellor out- bearing seems good-still, on the engine rattle is rather pronounced. ruled out circ pump

Engine Nut
07-31-2011, 04:05 PM
hey engine nut, great instruction but still looks a little tough without some tools. also where do you obtain the parts? can you order straight from Johnson or Indmar? not sure mine is bad though. getting a circulating pump rattle(like an auto) but no leaks and temp staying good even with 90 deg lake temp. with raw water pump off and impellor out- bearing seems good-still, on the engine rattle is rather pronounced. ruled out circ pump

Parts available from inboardonline.com.

emnesto
10-05-2011, 01:41 PM
I need to repair the raw water pump on my X-45. I'm planning on removing it from the engine. Do I need to need to remove the serpentine belt before I remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the pully.

jjbulla
07-18-2013, 08:34 PM
I cannot get my pump off. All bolts and brackets removed. Any advice?

billr
07-18-2013, 08:46 PM
Tap it with a hammer.

Kelley97
01-18-2016, 10:12 PM
I have a '96 Prostar with the Lt1 engine. I need to rebuild my raw water pump. I think I have read that the pump on my engine is different than the pump on the other engines. Will the rebuild kit work on mine? I'm having a hard time finding parts. Feel free to point me in the right direction.

mikeg205
01-18-2016, 10:30 PM
just get a new pump..

includes an impeller.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E21GUO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

same as the regular crank driven water pump.. takes about a beer to replace.

but not hard to rebuild with new bearings, seal and impeller...

waterlogged882
01-18-2016, 10:39 PM
New pump..... plug and play...impeller and all

Alternate source here (http://www.marinepartssource.com/partdetails.asp?pnumber=JP102480501&cat=8&catname=Pumps%20and%20Impellers&sub1=2&sub2=6&sub3=0&subcategory=Raw%20Water%20Pumps&subcategory2=Johnson%20Pump&subcategory3=&mfgno=10-24805-01)

Engine Nut
01-18-2016, 10:47 PM
The LT1/LTR takes a different pump. Indmar P/N 685020-1. The flange that attaches to the crank is different.

Kelley97
01-19-2016, 12:06 AM
If I decide to go the new pump rout, could I buy the regular pump and use the base of my pump? My bearings were wore slam out. I think my shaft is ok. The regular pump is half the price of the LT1 pump. I'm being too cheap aren't I??

Kelley97
01-19-2016, 12:29 AM
I guess I missed the post with the website for inboard marine parts. Gonna order the parts and try to rebuild mine. I did not see the o ring in the parts list. I should be able to find one at work. One more question. My pump did not have the brass washer inside. Should I install one when I rebuild the pump? I'm guessing it goes behind the new impeller at installation.

Table Rocker
01-19-2016, 12:17 PM
My pump was missing the washer before I rebuilt it. I used the washer between the impeller and the seal. I figure it protects the seal.

The bearings are 6203-2RS and are available anywhere that sells bearings. They are a common size. The other parts are available in the impeller long service kit (http://store.inboardonline.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=495001%20%20%20%20%20%20% 20%20%201&source=sc) that is available from inboardonline.com (http://store.inboardonline.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=495001%20%20%20%20%20%20% 20%20%201&source=sc), but the price seems to have gone up significantly since I bought mine a couple of years ago. You might compare the price of the parts in the kit with the price of the kit and see which works out better.

Rebuilding these pumps isn't a bad job, but you will need a bearing puller and something to press them back on to make things go more smoothly.

CruisinGA
01-19-2016, 01:19 PM
Rebuilding these pumps isn't a bad job, but you will need a bearing puller and something to press them back on to make things go more smoothly.

I was able to "walk" the old bearings out and the new bearings in using a punch.

Kelley97
01-19-2016, 05:49 PM
I already have it all tore apart. Pressing the bearing back on the shaft wont be a problem. I have an Arbor Press. Just waiting on parts now.

mgs96ps
01-28-2016, 06:57 PM
......

Table Rocker
01-28-2016, 09:35 PM
I was having slightly higher temps at idle....came to the conclusion that the original raw water pump was sucking air in through back seal. Too bad the LT-1 has a surcharge for the flange. Taped off the bearings and flange to give it a quick prime and spray. Now my winter to do list is complete.

Looking good! If you want rid of the old one, let me know. I would rebuild it for a spare since I already have the parts.

mgs96ps
01-29-2016, 10:21 AM
.......

Table Rocker
01-29-2016, 02:51 PM
TableRocker,

Let me get the new pump on and confirm that my idle issue is fixed. If so, i am sure that we can work something out and get you this pump. It would not be until May or so.....are you ever in Kansas City or do you hook up with any Ttalkers from KC? I know a lot of people enjoy a long weekend down on Tablerock Lake.
I would be in no hurry at all, it would just go on my parts shelf anyway.

I have not met any of the KC crew, but that could certainly change this year. We will work something out if you decide you don't need it.

Thanks for the reply.