PDA

View Full Version : No start..clicking noise


scott88prostar
09-25-2004, 04:08 PM
First start was strong then after changing skiers the starts were slower. ( this has been going on for a week).....Changed the battery(tested for load and charged) It makes a clicking noise from the coil...nothing is moving in a coil right? :confused:...its just wires? .....so Im going out with my trusty mult- meter that makes me look like I know what Im doing when in fact I dont...I tried looking for old posts that might give the proceduure for testing the electrical system for the battery back to the starter but no luck....I will check , clean and tighten all connections....and a large hammer for smacking the starter :mad:

Thanks for any help!

Bert
09-25-2004, 04:51 PM
First start was strong then after changing skiers the starts were slower. ( this has been going on for a week).....Changed the battery(tested for load and charged) It makes a clicking noise from the coil...nothing is moving in a coil right? :confused:...its just wires? .....so Im going out with my trusty mult- meter that makes me look like I know what Im doing when in fact I dont...I tried looking for old posts that might give the proceduure for testing the electrical system for the battery back to the starter but no luck....I will check , clean and tighten all connections....and a large hammer for smacking the starter :mad:

Thanks for any help!
Does that four thursty four engine turn over easy when cold vs hot? I had that problem once and it turned out the battery just didn't have enough cranking amps. Brand new boat and it would start great, shut it off for the first skier to get back in the boat and it wouldn't turn over. If you kept trying the battery would drain quickly and all you heard was the clicking of the start relay. Master Craft shipped a new starter to me. Bought a new marine battery and same thing. Replaced with an automotive battery and never had a problem again. Now I have a spare starter :)
Also check all connections for cleanliness and tightness. A high impedence connection can create enough of a voltage drop across it that the voltage at the starter terminals to low to turn the starter.

scott88prostar
09-25-2004, 05:02 PM
Hey Bert....doesnt crank cold anymore either!....just makes a click....if its the battery and I did put in a freshly charged battery that I checked for load I'll use the big hammer on my head....if it does turn out to be the battery I'll never tell you guys anyways!! :cool: ..I'll come up with a better story...but you never know!

Skiufool
09-25-2004, 07:42 PM
Even a bad battery, when freshly charged, will have enough juice to start up the engine...but only once! You might want to just take the battery down to AutoZone and have them check to see if in fact it is a good or bad battery. You'll save yourself a big headache later if you find out that the battery is bad. And if it turns out to still be a good battery, then you know it has to be something else...perhaps the starter, but that really doesn't sound like your problem.

The last few times I've taken my boat out I've actually had to jump start it because it didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine, but then it worked fine the rest of the day. It just couldn't turn over a cold engine. I finally got fed up with tracing the problem and had AutoZone check the battery and come to find out it was a bad battery. Bought a new Optima Red Top with 980 cranking amps and 104 amp Reserve Capacity and it works great!

JimN
09-25-2004, 09:35 PM
Scott- if a solenoid clicks, there's something inside that moved, right? If nothing moves, it can't click. There is a slide in it that makes contact and can handle high current. Until the voltage drops enough to burn the contact(s). Then that solenoid is toast. When you check and clean all of the contacts, make sure to loosen the starter and look for corrosion on the mating surfaces on the case and the motor. This is where the starter ground is established and if it's corroded, the ground is bad and this is a big battery/solenoid/starter killer.

Dallas2254
09-25-2004, 11:14 PM
Sounds like something I went through recently and found that my battery cable itself was fried. The copper wires were black around the ends. Cut them off and crimped an new end on them and it cranked really good after that. Antoher time it happend to be a blown head gasket and after shutting it down for a minute or two the water presure would seep into the cylinder that was blown and cause a major amount of compression until it could get past that stroke. being that the engine exhaust is coming out near the water it is difficult to tell if that is steam or exhaust. When cold the engine doesn't build up the compression as much from the water getting past the head gasket.

Dallas in Seattle

Thrall
09-26-2004, 02:07 AM
Scott,
Grayslake native here. Not that that helps your problem. Like Jim said, the contacts in the solenoid may be corrode, or ground to the block bad. I think your problem is starter motor related. The Motor may have a dead spot in it. Big blocks are notoriously hard on starters. If you have the room, try banging on the starter while someone else trys to start it. If it eventually kicks, you have a dead spot in the motor windings, or a bad solenoid. If not, it's probably still the starter. Use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid (arc the solenoid wire to the large + post). This will start it if the solenoid is bad. Either way, I think it is time for a new starter. Most parts stores will bench test a starter for you. Take it to Behning's on Rte 83, they can test it. You Probably need a new starter.

scott88prostar
10-02-2004, 12:55 PM
Well I guess I needed a bigger hammer....I had the starter rebuilt and all is fine....Thrall if you come back to town let us know and well give you a pull...I have 2 dry suits so your covered for our Christmas skiing!and we will ski till ice...we had a great time this last week ,flat water, no other boats....thanks to martho and his rippin Malibu we didnt miss any skiing...we did have one wave runner cut thru the course about 30 feet off the bow with Mark on the rope :eek3: ....guess that goes on another post.

Thanks for everyones help!

Since I found this site a couple years ago I have learned so much Im not afraid of trying anything mechanically. Makes me dangerous!....but Im a gear head now!...now if you guys can tell me how to make my 28 off pass that would be really cool!

Scott

Thrall
10-04-2004, 10:46 AM
Glad you got it fixed while there's still some time to ski. Appreciate the offer, Scott. Don't get back to Grayslake much anymore. My family has moved to northern WI. We will be spending the holidays up north this year. A bunch of my buddies from IL are coming up for a New Year's snowmobile trip. Can't wait for snow!
On the other hand it's still in the mid 90's here. This weekend was the first time since April that it hasn't been too HOT to stay at the lake all day.

scott88prostar
10-04-2004, 11:23 AM
Hey Thrall...do you have a boat up North?...I spent every summer of my youth on Cranberry Lake in Eagle River...was a camp counselor in St Germain...taught water skiing ...what a life!....I love it up there go up every 4th....too hot to be on the boat?...was in the 30 last night here....now Im trying to fix my heater....cores good but no hot water is reaching the radiator...ITs always sumthun with this old boat.

Thrall
10-04-2004, 04:43 PM
Scott,
No, I don't have a boat up north. Just down here in AZ. Just bought it this year, 1st boat. Was up there over Labor Day for 2 weeks though and one of my buddies brought his boat up from IL (same group I go riding with). 4 families invaded my mom's house for the weekend and skied, boarded, fished and drank for 3 days straight (not necessarily in that order). We have made the Labor Day trip and New Year's smowmobile trip annual events now for the past several years. We've had a summer cottage in Park Falls, about 40 mi west of Minocqua, since the 60's. 3 years ago I built my parents a home up there on the same lot, on Bass Lake, just west of Park Falls. My sister lives in Sayner, just outside of St. Germain. I love that area, just not enough work to keep me there after we moved back for the little home project. Can't beat the water. We were the only boat on the lake all weekend.
For your heater, check the line coming from the engine, some have an inline valve to shut off the supply to the heater core.

jimmer2880
10-05-2004, 05:29 AM
Scott,
For your heater, check the line coming from the engine, some have an inline valve to shut off the supply to the heater core.
You may not have a shut-off for your heater if it was an aftermarket heatercraft. My kit didn't have one, so I went to Home Depot and got brass fittings & a brass ball-valve. Works great. I'd definately add one if you don't have one.

scott88prostar
10-05-2004, 07:55 PM
Well I made sure the hoses were clear and checked the discharge. I have a valve on top of the water pump that you open manually. I checked to see if the discharg was hot, water did come out (sitting in the driveway at idle got it up to 160 degrees). BUT...the radiator never got hot. The impeller is fine also.

So my question is do I have to be running to have enough pressure to get the system or does the thermosat have something to do with it? The temp normally is 160.

Bert
10-05-2004, 08:12 PM
Well I made sure the hoses were clear and checked the discharge. I have a valve on top of the water pump that you open manually. I checked to see if the discharg was hot, water did come out (sitting in the driveway at idle got it up to 160 degrees). BUT...the radiator never got hot. The impeller is fine also.

So my question is do I have to be running to have enough pressure to get the system or does the thermosat have something to do with it? The temp normally is 160. Not sure what you mean by hot but my heater doesn't put out any heat at idle. When cruising it puts out nice heat.

Thrall
10-05-2004, 08:14 PM
May not have enough water running through it hooked up to the hose, or the tstat was not all the way open (barely getting up to 160) and wasn't pushing the water all the way through the heater.
Did you try it on the lake and it didn't work?

NeilM
10-05-2004, 09:13 PM
Well I made sure the hoses were clear and checked the discharge. I have a valve on top of the water pump that you open manually. I checked to see if the discharg was hot, water did come out (sitting in the driveway at idle got it up to 160 degrees). BUT...the radiator never got hot. The impeller is fine also.

So my question is do I have to be running to have enough pressure to get the system or does the thermosat have something to do with it? The temp normally is 160.
Bert's right... Unless you have added Heatercraft's low speed heat kit, you won't get much heat, if any, while it's sitting on the trailer. The heater 'circuit' is just one big loop from the engine to the heater core and back to the engine. It should be real easy to disconnect the heater hoses at the engine to ensure you have unrestricted flow through the heater. While you've got the hoses off, look at the fittings on the engine -- as long as they're not blocked with rust particles or something (they shouldn't be) it should work OK.