View Full Version : Winterization Questions for 2000 LT1

09-23-2004, 09:39 PM
Some basic questions:

Fill Tank with gas and stabilize fuel or keep it close to empty and stabilize?

Change oil now in fall or wait until spring and change it?

Add antifreeze in engine block or just empty all the water out of black and manifolds?

Spray engine with silicone protectant?

What Octane gas is preferred?


09-23-2004, 10:28 PM
Add stabilizer to the correct ratio for a full tank and fill it, then run it till it warms up fully, or 15 minutes, whichever comes first. You want the stabilized fuel to be in the entire fuel system.

Change the oil and filter. Old oil is corrosive and whatever raw gas is in it, won't do any good. Cheap protection.

Run it to warm it up and get fresh oil into the motor.

When it's at normal operating temperature, fog it.

DO NOT use anti-freeze. Pull all hoses, impeller, loosen the belt(s), remove the battery. You can spray anti-corrosion on it if you want. Depends on where you are and how much condensation will collect on it. If there's a lot, do it. Before you start this whole list, you might want to lube the starter gear and its shaft. That way, it will be lubed over the winter and will be less likely to freeze up from rust.

For any other info, do a search here or the old site for winterization steps.

09-27-2004, 10:37 AM

You say to not add anti-freeze to the newer engines, but my 1984 manual says to use it... Did they do something with the newer engines so they drain better or has thinking on this subject changed over the years?

09-27-2004, 10:43 AM
I have a 92 ProStar and I just winterized my boat this weekend. I followed some old instructions posted on this site and filled the cooling system with antifreeze?? Was this a mistake?? :eek3: Should I drain it out??


09-27-2004, 10:53 AM
Look at the original post here and you'll see that he has an LT-1. LT-1 has aluminum heads and RV anti-freeze will corrode these. You guys have cast iron. No problem for you. Aluminum is an unstable metal and reacts easily with a lot of different things. Cast iron may rust a bit, but otherwise, it just sits there.

Never use regular antifreeze in a boat and dump it into the water when you first start it in spring. Bad for the enviroment and the DNR will come after you, big time.

09-27-2004, 11:04 AM
I definitely understand about not putting antifreeze in the lake. I will drain it all out in the spring and run water through it before taking it to the lake. But one question:

Are the aluminum motors designed to drain the water out better. Because it seemed like even after draining my manifolds and my block, there was still some water in the motor.

09-27-2004, 11:53 AM
Aluminum heads. That makes sense. I really haven't kept up with the new boat technology since just looking at the prices gives me a heart attack before I even get a chance to look under the hatch.

09-27-2004, 12:00 PM
By 'aluminum motor', do you mean the 5.3, 6.0, etc? I don't know that they drain any better, but the anti-freeze isn't good for the aluminum. If you mean LT-1, the block is the same as the TBI motor. The knock sensor and petcock need to come out completely, don't just open the petcock. If the water comes out alowly, stick a wire in and clear out any sand or silt that may be clogging the hole. The water should gush out. If you remove a lot of sand or silt, flush the water jacket out to remove more. Get as much out as you can. It needs to be clean in there. A little water won't cause a problem since it won't be able to only expand outward. If there's air in there, the water will be able to expand into this area and won't push against the block, cracking it.

Pull the hoses off, empty the oil cooler, remove the plugs at the rear of the exhaust manifolds and remove the impeller if you aren't using anti-freeze.