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JohnnyB
03-18-2006, 06:46 PM
Ordered a new set of graphics for my boat from BAWS. As long as i was ordering, I bought a new insert for my rub rail.

My question.....is it easy to install? Have any of you done this? If so, are there any tips to share? I'm hoping it's relatively easy. :confused:

erkoehler
03-18-2006, 06:47 PM
Ordered a new set of graphics for my boat from BAWS. As long as i was ordering, I bought a new insert for my rub rail.

My question.....is it easy to install? Have any of you done this? If so, are there any tips to share? I'm hoping it's relatively easy. :confused:


I think that I read on here it is best if you soak it in HOT water before attempting an install to make it easier to work with.

88 PS190
03-18-2006, 08:15 PM
seen heatguns used on some boats, not sure on yours

TMCNo1
03-18-2006, 08:39 PM
Or, I was told at MC you can put it in the clothes dryer, high heat and keep a check on it OR use a heat gun. It takes two people, one to apply it to the rail and one to feed it to you so it won't be or get tangled up like a rope. If you use a heat gun it takes three people, the third heats the insert and don't burn it!!!!!!! Inset the upper wing into the rail and use a plastic squeegy like you use to get the bubbles out of decals with, to flip the lower wing into the rail. Using a screw driver may cut the insert and can scratch or damage the aluminum rail if you slip. I don't want to scare you, but it takes the guys at the factory about 4 minutes to insert the vinyl insert into the rail on the average boat, cause the insert cools real quick once exposed to the air. They keep the soon to be installed inserts in a tub of real hot water and the tub has a lid on it. Apply a little 303 or silicone to the rail first for obvious reasons. Experiment first with a small piece to see what works best for you. When you start the install, begin about 8" before the joint in the center of the transon, but leave about 4" hanging out, when you finish, cross over the center of the transom and push some of the excess into the rail, as over time you will have a little shrinkage in the insert and as you know it's better to have too much, than not enough, plus it will shrink a tad bit as it cools. In doing it you will see what I am talking about.
P.S. Be sure to mark with tape the location of the rail cover plate AND the SCREW HOLES when you disassemble!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hoosier Bob
03-18-2006, 09:16 PM
I pulled the insert out on my 93 and swapped out the rivets for ss hardware. Start at the front and work your way starboard and port in any order. Lay out the insert from the bow back. I did not heat or mess with mine. I just bent the insert back and sort of rolled it back into the rail. Hands got a work out but I would say the job is easy once you get it started in the front! I did it alone and it moved very quickly. I was reinstalling though. :D

Laurel_Lake_Skier
03-18-2006, 09:25 PM
I pulled mine out last summer to tighten some screws holding the main piece of the rail. Putting the insert back wasn't that bad. I did it in the sun on a warm day and was able to squeeze it with my fingers for most of the way (as mentioned, my hands felt the work out later) and occasionally used a wide flat bladed screwdriver to press the bottom section up and in when things got stubborn. I was careful and had no problems with slipping and scratching.

Take your time....you'll be fine.

JEREMY79
03-19-2006, 12:38 AM
I boiled a large stock pot of water and put the insert in it after it quit boiling. that made it very easy to do.

flipper
03-19-2006, 12:45 AM
I pulled the insert out on my 93 and swapped out the rivets for ss hardware. Start at the front and work your way starboard and port in any order. Lay out the insert from the bow back. I did not heat or mess with mine. I just bent the insert back and sort of rolled it back into the rail. Hands got a work out but I would say the job is easy once you get it started in the front! I did it alone and it moved very quickly. I was reinstalling though. :D

I did the same thing this winter. It was time consuming, but not all that hard. I also recalked the hull where it comes together. I helped my friend do his with new rubber and just let it sit out in the sun for a few hours and used a heat gun at the three corners.

Sodar
03-19-2006, 12:46 AM
I have used the heat gun method on a warm day and it works great.

JohnnyB
03-19-2006, 11:56 AM
Thanks for all the tips..... :toast:

I've gotta mull this over a bit....a day warm enough to make the rail plyable is probably too late in the season for me....

Heat-gun might be the ticket....however, one thing that comes to mind is using my turkey fryer to heat a large stock pot of water and use that to warm the rub-rail...

Gotta get the West marine catalog out and look at fasteners....was planning to make getting rid of rivets, calking and resecuring the rail part of this task.

JimN
03-19-2006, 01:16 PM
One reason it takes about 4 minutes at the factory is that they use a rubber mallet. Doesn't need to be hit any harder than what it takes to get it into the rail. They do heat it in a tank of water, though. On a cold day, it's not gonna be fun.

flipper
03-19-2006, 01:27 PM
Putting in the rubber went quick for me, the hard part was putting all the ss screws and lock nuts in. I think it is worth it though. Never have to worry about it again. Somebody did it on my boat before I owned it, and tried useing ss wood screws, not a good idea. All of those were loose and tearing up the boat.

stumbledog
03-19-2006, 01:31 PM
Thanks for all the tips..... :toast:

I've gotta mull this over a bit....a day warm enough to make the rail plyable is probably too late in the season for me....

Heat-gun might be the ticket....however, one thing that comes to mind is using my turkey fryer to heat a large stock pot of water and use that to warm the rub-rail...

Gotta get the West marine catalog out and look at fasteners....was planning to make getting rid of rivets, calking and resecuring the rail part of this task.

Doeas anyone have any pics of the "de-rivet" proces. I want to do this on my '93. My rubrail is loose on one side, and I would like to do this project next month.

JimN
03-19-2006, 01:40 PM
Flipper- with a hard hit to the rail, the SS screws can break and you'll need to replace them. Pop rivets usually won't fail, especially if there's a backing washer on them.

To remove pop rivets, use a drill bit that's just larger than the diameter of the hole needed for a rivet of the same size. What you need to do is take the shoulder off and no more. Once that's off, you just need to push the old rivet back, though the hole and put on a new one. You can use a small punch to push the old ones out. Then, pick up the old ones inside the boat.

flipper
03-19-2006, 01:43 PM
I didn't take any pics, but most of them were loose enough that I could clip the heads off the rivets, some I drilled out, and others I pushed out. I went to a larger size bolt instead of rivets because some of the loose rivets made the holes bigger from rattling around. Plan on a full two days and a friend if you plan to go with machine screws and lock nuts. I also caulked all of the screws.