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brianaw26
02-27-2006, 08:53 PM
Iím getting around to what needs to be done to the boat. Itís pretty hard to accomplish these things because I'm in an apartment but I try. Here are the first pictures of the platform (its gross) after I backed into a tree and after about 20 min of sanding (my arm is KILLING me). I need to buy a electric sander. I removed the damaged piece so I can replace it. Anybody have suggestions that might help me out?

http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/Begin.jpg

http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/2.jpg

dichdoc
02-27-2006, 10:19 PM
I bought a cheapy Black and Decker Mouse sander. It has attachments that can get between the slats and fit into the grooves on mine. Search for the thread "Swim platforms can be beautiful". Detailed article on Teak platforms using 100,000 grit sand paper and Teak Sealer. His is nicer then the trim in my house! Travis

Workin' 4 Toys
02-27-2006, 10:24 PM
100,000 grit??

88 PS190
02-27-2006, 10:31 PM
I wouldn't go too crazy with the sander, preferably you'd try cleaning it first
so you don't over do it on the sanding and remove a ton of wood.

brianaw26
02-27-2006, 10:38 PM
Im just removing the "grey wood" and going to coat it with some teak oil/sealer.

SKI*MC
02-27-2006, 10:57 PM
I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.

Cloaked
02-27-2006, 11:04 PM
100,000 grit??Yes, that is correct. Have you never used it? :D :D

It is a very fine paper indeed... LOL... :D

I think they were called Zig-Zag in a previous life... :wavey:

6ballsisall
02-27-2006, 11:07 PM
100k grit? That's gotta to be finer than a babys butt! :eek:

Sporty that back end looks awesome

uh.......... I am talking about your boat there just so you know :D

brianaw26
02-27-2006, 11:16 PM
I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.

First i need a transom worth saving.... :(

88 PS190
02-27-2006, 11:20 PM
Put the new board on, before you sand anymore.

That way you can make them fit together as you work, instead of doing it seperately.

6ballsisall
02-27-2006, 11:22 PM
First i need a transom worth saving.... :(

It is a Mastercraft right??? :confused: :confused:

erkoehler
02-27-2006, 11:27 PM
I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.


Where can you get a transom saver?

brianaw26
02-27-2006, 11:28 PM
It is a Mastercraft right??? :confused: :confused:

True..... My point being, a wakeboard/ski hitting the transom couldnít mess up the finish, because there is no finish left :(

That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.

I suppose while I do the platform I might as well do the guard
.

X-45
02-28-2006, 06:39 AM
That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.

Take a lot of photos on that stringer replacement
:toast:

herringtech
02-28-2006, 10:03 AM
I cut/paste the following from another website. Follow the directions closely... this works very well.People have asked me what my secret is for achieving great looking teakwood, so I thought I would share my secret with all my MC friends. Be careful with these household chemicals. This is for outside use. I hold no responsibility to injury or loss resulting from misuse . . . well, you know the rest. Like it or not, making your teak look "showroom new" takes a little bit of time and work. The re's no quick way of getting the mildew stains out of teakwood. I've used lots of products on the market, mostly chemical bleaching agents but none have worked as well as the formula I got from an "old-time house painting" friend of mine. The Formula: (secret #1) 1 cup of Tri-Sodium Phosphate substitute. (available at most hardware & paint stores) If you can get real TSP, it's the best but TSP substitute works Okay. 2 Cups HOT water. (not boiling but hot) 1/2 Gallon of Clorox (or equiv.) Bleach. A good Teak Oil. *see note Equipment Needed: Old clothes (you'll ruin them with bleach stains!) Eye protection (protect your eyes!) Heavy rubber gloves (these household chemicals are corrosive to skin) Common household bucket (holds about 2 gals.) Plastic "medium bristle" scrub brush Garden hose without a nozzle attached (for rinse) A soft 2" paint brush Restoring "Perfect Teak" (the hard part) Do the following OUTSIDE. Ventilation is A MUST! Pour 2 cups HOT water into a household bucket. SLOWLY mix 1 cup of TSP in the bucket. Be careful NOT to inhale the fumes. (These fumes can cause permanent lung damage!) After the mix is solvent (a few minutes) pour in 1/2 gallon of bleach. Mix while you pour. You now have the formula to clean your teak. This formula will not harm plastics but may discolor your nibral prop or rudder. Protect with a plastic bag if this is of concern. Protect your (and anyone around) eyes from splash. Apply the mix with the plastic scrub brush to your teakwood. The mix (cleaner) will penetrate your wood over a 10-minute period. After 10 minutes, apply another coat and scrub firmly to help loosen dirt and debris. Do NOT rinse. Teak that has been neglected for some time will take several applications (using 10-minute intervals) before the black stains disappear. It is not unusual for this process to take up to 1.5 hours. Warning: Do NOT soak your small teakwood pieces in the bucket of teak cleaner. After the cleaning process, rinse the teakwood THOROUGHLY with cold running water from your garden hose. Use the scrub brush and scrub during rinsing. The teak cleaning solution MUST be removed completely before drying. Drying time will take about a day. (Less if you have a good hot sunny day) The teakwood must be completely dry before applying any oils. Towel drying will speed up the process. Applying teak oil on wet teakwood will likely cause mildew. After drying, lightly sand the teakwood using 240-grit sandpaper. This will remove the "fur" that appears after cleaning. After light sanding, use a soft paintbrush to clean the dust out of the grooves of the teakwood before applying the oil. *Applying a good Teak Oil: (secret #2) Choose an oil that has little or no Silicones and no wax. Silicones give your teak a "slimy" feel and wax additives make your teak look "frosty" in a few weeks. These additives are intended to repel water but I find they spoil the natural look and feel of teak a lot sooner. I have 2 good recommendations for Teak Oil if you ask, but a good quality Golden Teak Oil will do the job. Stay away from blends that contain silicones or wax. Teak Oil is best applied to dry teakwood in the hot sun. Several coats (8 or more!) applied 30 minutes apart while the hot sun "bakes" the oil deep into the teakwood is recommended. Apply liberally using a 2" soft paintbrush stroking with the grain of the wood. After 8 or more coats, let the wood "dry" overnight. After "drying" period, wipe with a soft dry towel. Your award-winning teakwood should now look better than "showroom new".

east tx skier
02-28-2006, 11:39 AM
The .pdf to TMC No. 1' s method is in the FAQ thread. I was gifted my transom saver (thanks George). Don't know if he made it or had it made. It's basically a piece of teak that's contoured and is attached to the top of your platform (I put long composite decking screws from the bottom up to attach mine.

TonyB
02-28-2006, 12:03 PM
It is a very fine paper indeed... LOL... :D

I think they were called Zig-Zag in a previous life... :wavey:
Sporty,
I'm familiar with Zig-Zag (http://www.zigzag.com/RYO_Products_Papers.HTM), mostly the 1.5s, but I would never have believed it would remove wood.

Recalling days past it seemed to add wood. ;)

brianaw26
03-01-2006, 07:48 PM
All sanded. I have the missing piece cut and sanded. It is not in the picture. Waiting for the oil to come in the mail.

http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/mid.jpg

SKI*MC
03-01-2006, 07:50 PM
Where can you get a transom saver?


Ita hand made. We got some hard wood, that doesnt rot, ( i have no clue what kind of wood it is) and we stencled it onto the transom, and cut it, sanded it, teaked it, and drilled it on.




That looks really cool. As for th oil, why mail? I always get mine from fleet farm, but thats in the spring. Never mind... :rolleyes:

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 08:18 PM
I might have to make one of those. Ask your Dad what wood he made it out of????

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 08:23 PM
Mine's teak. Thanks George.

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 08:25 PM
Mine's teak. Thanks George.


Where can you buy TEAK?

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 08:33 PM
Internet or a specialty lumber store. How 'bout Teak World in Lebenon, TN. Here's how mine looked after installation.

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 08:38 PM
Internet or a specialty lumber store. How 'bout Teak World in Lebenon, TN. Here's how mine looked after installation.


Have you found that it actually helps protect the transom, or would one of those clear plastic sheets be better?

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 08:41 PM
I didn't really kick mine to begin with, but I received it as a generous gift and was excited to put it on (just another option on the boat). If some rollers come your way while you're trying to put the ski on and it happens to be sitting on the platform, it can't hurt.

I don't think the plastic would last so long. Plus, you hit it hard enough, who's it protecting the gel coat.

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 08:45 PM
I didn't really kick mine to begin with, but I received it as a generous gift and was excited to put it on (just another option on the boat). If some rollers come your way while you're trying to put the ski on and it happens to be sitting on the platform, it can't hurt.

I don't think the plastic would last so long. Plus, you hit it hard enough, who's it protecting the gel coat.


I think I may just make everyone put there skis on in the water unless they are slaloming with double boots.

I have atleast 5 small marks on the transom from last season that I am not happy about!

brianaw26
03-01-2006, 08:59 PM
I think I may just make everyone put there skis on in the water unless they are slaloming with double boots.

I have atleast 5 small marks on the transom from last season that I am not happy about!

wakeboards are the main culprit on my boat. I need a new coat of clear gelcoat before I start to worry about the marks.... :(

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 09:12 PM
wakeboards are the main culprit on my boat. I need a new coat of clear gelcoat before I start to worry about the marks.... :(


Wakeboards do suck....big marks!

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 09:21 PM
I think I may just make everyone put there skis on in the water unless they are slaloming with double boots.

I have atleast 5 small marks on the transom from last season that I am not happy about!

Yeah, with double high wrap boots, putting them on while sitting on the platform can leave marks on the hull below the waterline. :eek:

Just put the last coat of oil on mine. Been working on it for a week and a half. Got plugs in the old holes that had pulled loose and have patiently been oiling every day or two. I don't really mess with the wet sanding. Just rub with mid grade steel wool between coats and hit it with a fine finishing steel wool after the last coat. It doesn't shine like some of the others, but I like it.

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 09:30 PM
Can't take just one.

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 09:32 PM
After I hit it with a finishing rub, it won't be quite so shiny. Plus, I just put the oil on. I lost track how many coats the top got. Bottom only got two.

erkoehler
03-01-2006, 09:40 PM
Doug, how long does that "look" last????

TMCNo1
03-01-2006, 10:31 PM
Eastie, LOOOOOOOOOOOking GOOOOOOOOOOOOd! It will last as long as you got some oil left in the bottle, right?

MarkP
03-01-2006, 10:33 PM
After I hit it with a finishing rub, it won't be quite so shiny. Plus, I just put the oil on. I lost track how many coats the top got. Bottom only got two.
Well lets see the top??

MarkP
03-01-2006, 10:35 PM
Should I edit that? Nah, Doug will know Iím kiddin.

milkmania
03-01-2006, 11:05 PM
All sanded. I have the missing piece cut and sanded. It is not in the picture. Waiting for the oil to come in the mail.

http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/mid.jpg



you're going to be much happier with that.... looks like you sanded for quite a while

here's mine
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=146390&postcount=8

brianaw26
03-01-2006, 11:15 PM
Is my platfrom an aftermarket one? I see all the other platforms on the site and they all seem to have many more slats with less space between them? Or are there a few styles?

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 11:19 PM
Thanks, all. TMCNo.1 is right, it will last as long as I touch it up. It's been a couple of years since I sanded down and started from scratch. Even then, it wasn't grey or white looking. Just sort of rough in spots from my standing on it with the ski.

I've had a hard time finding plain starbrite locally. The last two years, I've used Amazon Golden Teak Oil. I don't think it looks too bad. I did, however, use the first two steps of the starbrite three-step after I sanded with 80 grit to get all the old stuff off. Then, I just oiled, let it dry, hit it with the medium steel wool, and repeat.

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 11:21 PM
Brian26, I don't know. Throughout the 90s, they had the smaller slats. I don't know what they were doing in the early 80s. Your platform looks somewhat similar to some that I saw for sale online though. You've done a great job restoring it. I love the way the teak looks when it's all sanded down.

Footin
03-01-2006, 11:21 PM
Looks great, I do give you guys alot of credit becuase i do know it is a ton of work, but sometimes I am glad mine is fiberglass.

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 11:21 PM
Should I edit that? Nah, Doug will know Iím kiddin.



I knew. I knew. 8p

MarkP
03-01-2006, 11:22 PM
I knew. I knew. 8pEwww,

You saw that fast..:o

brianaw26
03-01-2006, 11:24 PM
I wiped it with a damp cloth to get rid of the sawdust and man.... I love the way it looks now. Is there a way to get the color with the oil but not have it as shiny as the ones I see on here?

SKI*MC
03-01-2006, 11:36 PM
I might have to make one of those. Ask your Dad what wood he made it out of????


He says it was mahogony, i think its hard cherry wood (or something like that) I'm not sure... It works great though!

east tx skier
03-01-2006, 11:47 PM
I wiped it with a damp cloth to get rid of the sawdust and man.... I love the way it looks now. Is there a way to get the color with the oil but not have it as shiny as the ones I see on here?

Just don't do so many coats. Don't sand in between coats. Just do the starbrite 3 step and do two coats. Wipe off the excess with a rag. And let it dry really well. Hit it with a very fine grade sandpaper, steel wool, or brass wool after the last coat. That should take the sheen off of it. The down side is that without as many coats, its not so easy to maintain year to year without stripping it back down and starting from scratch.

Truth be told, mine won't be quite so shiny when it actually dries. ;) And after I hit it with the fine steel wool.

After a couple of weeks, it'll look a little something like this.

X-45
03-02-2006, 07:20 AM
I've had a hard time finding plain starbrite locally. The last two years, I've used Amazon Golden Teak Oil.

Is plain starbrite just oil without sealer. I've only use teak oil without sealers because I'm afraid of locking water into the wood. But in the resent posts it seams that everone is using oil with sealer. To seal or not to seal, that is my question.
:confused:

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 10:07 AM
Is plain starbrite just oil without sealer. I've only use teak oil without sealers because I'm afraid of locking water into the wood. But in the resent posts it seams that everone is using oil with sealer. To seal or not to seal, that is my question.
:confused:


The Starbrite Teak Oil Sealer/Preserver is just as it says, be sure wood is DRY before applying and all sanding dust and trash is removed. Essentially it will seal the wood to keep water from entering the grain and collecting mold, mildew, choke smoke and the like. Put a few coats underneath to seal the backside, edges, between the slats etc. Don't be afraid to saturate EVERYTHING, EVERYWHERE the first few original coats. You can carry this thing as far as you want to go, from the basic factory original look to a fine piece of furniture, because Starbrite Teak Oil sealer/preserver drys like a shellac or a varnish and WILL NOT wash off into the water as does most all other Teak Oils if it is thououghly dry. I have found that after applying many, many coats and sanding , even after a few days drying it will feel tacky, but when we put it in the water and run a while, the tackiness will disappear.

mrcrowson
03-02-2006, 10:19 AM
After I bought my MC I then bought some of this.
http://www.starbrite.com/Prodimages/85132-Teak-Oil.jpg
I have been pretty faithful in applying it and have had lots of people say what do you use?

G-man
03-02-2006, 10:27 AM
mrcrowson

What you purchased is good, but if you purchase the starbrite in white bottle i think you will like it more because of it's sealing abilities.

mrcrowson
03-02-2006, 10:36 AM
One other thing is that my boat is only a year old and it is garage kept.

G-man
03-02-2006, 11:19 AM
mr crowson

pardon me if I am taking you wrong but you are talking with 2 people that have more Best of Show awards between them than you may ever have. You think one first place award is suppose to impress us? We are only trying to help.

mrcrowson
03-02-2006, 11:27 AM
Must of taken it wrong, SORRY
I am also just saying that I use Starbrite and I like it. Plus I had many people ask me what I used on mine at the reunion, Taken wrong, Sorry again..

east tx skier
03-02-2006, 11:33 AM
Threadjack, hey George, why'd you change your name. You got a new career I don't know about? ;)

You should be getting your teak plugs today.

/p.s., I know I'm not sticking true to the platform treatment method, but I'm lucky the kiddo lets me out into the garage at all these days. :) The Amazon stuff goes on pretty thick, but was all I could grab locally last year. So I'm going to use it up. I always preferred the regular old starbrite, but there must have been a run on the stuff around here last year along with the Autolite 764s.

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 04:04 PM
After I bought my MC I then bought some of this.
http://www.starbrite.com/Prodimages/85132-Teak-Oil.jpg
I have been pretty faithful in applying it and have had lots of people say what do you use?

Just a note, I used the PREMIUM thinking it was better after using the white bottle STARBRITE, and it is Good, but when you get the finish down to a high gloss as I do, and sanding with 2000 micro/fine wet/dry this stuff will HAZE rather than HIGH GLOSS. Now I only apply the regular sealer/preserver with my hand after everthing including my hand has been tack ragged, in the hot sun and just enough to gloss over the sanding marks, a second coat after the first has dried. As I have said, you can carry this as far as you want it!

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 04:17 PM
G-MAN, AKA GEORGE, Easy on the EQUIPMENT!, You know we are anal about this crap and it appears most don't just get it and never will. "DO YOU EVER PUT YOUR BOAT IN THE WATER?" "MUST BE NICE TO HAVE 2 BOATS, 1 TO USE AND 1 TO SHOW!"


BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUL! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Come to my house and I'll show anyone, we'll go to the water, THEN we'll go to a reunion after 1 hour clean-up time, drive 6-8 hrs. with the cover on!, and been doing it for 17 years today with the same boat! That's right MAR. 2, 1989 @12:00 noon I picked this easter egg up in Marietta, GA for $17,695 LOADED{all options], and I'm still on my first QT. of STARBRITE Teak Oil, Sealer/preserver in the white bottle. At todays boat prices that's a lot of teak oil difference. By now I think I'm $.67 ahead with all the upgrades!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I found my place to VENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

east tx skier
03-02-2006, 04:28 PM
Harold, are you saying that one man's swim platform is another man's coffee table? ;)

Hit mine with the finishing sand over lunch. Found a strip of 1000 grit lying around and used that after the finishing steel wool. Looks purdy enough for govt. work. Will look even better in the water.

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 04:35 PM
Harold, are you saying that one man's swim platform is another man's coffee table? ;)

Hit mine with the finishing sand over lunch. Found a strip of 1000 grit lying around and used that after the finishing steel wool. Looks purdy enough for govt. work. Will look even better in the water.


Yea EASTIE!, just ask george, AKA G-MAN, he's got the TABLE AND BENCHES to prove it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek:


And you LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOking GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOd too :smile: !

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 04:40 PM
Ya'll better watch George, AKA G-MAN, I think he's off his medications!!!!!!!!!!! I sense hostilities in this letters and junk talk and stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nothing a good dose of MYDOL wont cure, think?

east tx skier
03-02-2006, 04:56 PM
Yea EASTIE!, just ask george, AKA G-MAN, he's got the TABLE AND BENCHES to prove it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek:


And you LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOking GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOd too :smile: !

I know, he and I were talking about it in emails this morning. :)

George's medicine is warm water. I think he's definitely missing it (as am I).

G-man
03-02-2006, 05:33 PM
You guys are killing me, all is cool

M-Funf
03-02-2006, 05:36 PM
I might have to make one of those. Ask your Dad what wood he made it out of????

I'd go with Teak since the platform is Teak, but maybe that's just me. Look in your phonebook under "hardwood" or "lumber".

You can use a compass to mark the curve without taking the platform off, or simply remove the platform and trace the curve...

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 07:01 PM
You guys are killing me, all is cool


G-MAN, Got your PM's and sounds to me like you need to go sit in the bathtub in some warm water to warm you up, just rub down with some STARBRITE TEAK OIL SEALER/PRESERVER [in the white bottle] so you wont get any water in ya during it all, HOLD ON and pretend your a platform on the transom of a MasterCraft, cause it's a hell of a ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Going to TN tomorrow at lunch, spending Sat. and Sun. in GB/PF and going to MC on Monday. Anything you want me to pick up for you to upgrade the dark boat to bring back any memories? :D :D

east tx skier
03-02-2006, 08:30 PM
Okay, shes back on the boat. I'm done for this year. :steering:

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 09:03 PM
Okay, shes back on the boat. I'm done for this year. :steering:


Dang EASTIE, 700 more coats and sanding 327 off and you will be able to see the reflections of the transom in it. Oh heck, go ahead and go for it, it won't take you but 11 1/2 more years.

SkiDog
03-02-2006, 09:04 PM
Hey Page, aren't you sick of this thread by now! :firejump:

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 09:27 PM
Hey Page, aren't you sick of this thread by now! :firejump:


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Before I got this here new computer I was sitting around trying to talk to the old lady about how good the STARBRITE TEAK OIL, Sealer/Preserver[in the white bottle] is. Why do you think she split the cost of this DELL? So, I would shut up and bore someone on here! HER LOSS! Ya'lls gain! Don't make me start venting!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek:

Plus, I gotta run up my post count talking about something, trying to get to TT Basketcase!

SkiDog
03-02-2006, 09:35 PM
Go ahead, start your venting! Don't ya just miss back in the day when we used to raise the roof off of the Ski - One lounge? JJ getting his drawers dropped, Fred TRYING to dance, (or walk for that matter), baseball in the parking lot, Splatter, Splattering EVERYTHING in site, Stealing plants for displays. Oh those were the days! :toast:

TMCNo1
03-02-2006, 09:45 PM
Go ahead, start your venting! Don't ya just miss back in the day when we used to raise the roof off of the Ski - One lounge? JJ getting his drawers dropped, Fred TRYING to dance, (or walk for that matter), baseball in the parking lot, Splatter, Splattering EVERYTHING in site, Stealing plants for displays. Oh those were the days! :toast:

The hardest I've ever laughed in my life was that night in the Ski One Lounge, I think that was the night it rained and the lounge is in the basement and I brought my water gun and everyone including the band thought the roof in the place was leaking, besides the band didn't want to get electrocuted. Why did Fred fall on that 19 yr old girl, I was shooting vodka collins under his feet, cause I forgot my dish washing soap to put in my gun for the extra special effect. :D :D

G-man
03-03-2006, 10:47 AM
Looks good eastie, Next you can start getting the undergear polished, not the undercarrage.

TMCNo1
03-03-2006, 11:22 AM
Looks good eastie, Next you can start getting the undergear polished, not the undercarrage.

Eastie, I know a man here I use for polishing, Avery Moore, Specialty Polishing that polishes Alum, S/S, Brass, Bronze, Plastics, ETC. I am more than willing to hook you 2 up, now your platform is spiffy. Bet ya can't polish just one piece, but ya can't use Teak on that stuff. Wait a minute, I've never tried that, it just might work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!That stuff goes real good in a stiff cup of coffe though, but use the WHITE BOTTLE kind! :D 8p :rolleyes:

east tx skier
03-03-2006, 11:24 AM
Looks good eastie, Next you can start getting the undergear polished, not the undercarrage.

Remind me what a good brass polish is again? I seem to recall someone mentioning something I could just pick up at autozone and wipe on to refresh the prop and rudder.

captkidd
03-03-2006, 11:45 AM
Brasso works pretty well, but it doesn't have much cut to it.

Harold, I have to give you props for teaching me (over the phone) how to restore my deck. I followed your instructions and this is what it looks like now:

captkidd
03-03-2006, 11:47 AM
The good thing is that I only wipe a little more oil on it after each trip or two to keep it looking like this all summer long.

captkidd
03-03-2006, 11:49 AM
As far as underwater gear, I polished my own rudder using a palm sander and varying grits of sandpaper, then a drill-mounted buffing pad:

east tx skier
03-03-2006, 11:50 AM
From the wood to the brass, it all looks great Capt! :toast:

TMCNo1
03-06-2006, 11:18 PM
Capt. Kidd, you be killin' us with all the shine, now if we could get Eastie to use some sandpaper, a buffer and some "Tarnite" from Ace Hdwe., he'd be killin' us too.

SKI*MC
03-06-2006, 11:20 PM
As far as underwater gear, I polished my own rudder using a palm sander and varying grits of sandpaper, then a drill-mounted buffing pad:



Could you PM me with the process on how you did that?

east tx skier
03-06-2006, 11:43 PM
Capt. Kidd, you be killin' us with all the shine, now if we could get Eastie to use some sandpaper a buffer and some "Tarnite" from Ace Hdwe., he'd be killin' us too.

Time is slowly running out for that kind of stuff. Soon it will be warm and the boat will take on its utilitarian role. :D

Farmer Ted
03-06-2006, 11:44 PM
Okay, shes back on the boat. I'm done for this year. :steering:


Looks good Doug, did you install a transom saver? Nice touch!

east tx skier
03-06-2006, 11:47 PM
Yeah, I put that on a year or so ago. Held on with composite decking screws put in from the bottom up.

Sodar
03-07-2006, 12:09 AM
As far as underwater gear, I polished my own rudder using a palm sander and varying grits of sandpaper, then a drill-mounted buffing pad:

Hey Capt, I see that on your trailer uprights your pads go from the steps to the top of the poles. Did you shorten your uprights or do you have longer pads or have you not done a thing and that is just the way they are? Thanks man, your rig looks GREAT!

east tx skier
03-07-2006, 11:22 AM
I think the poles were a little shorter on the older trailers. Mine go up to the rubber caps as well. I've seen them on newer trailers and understand what you're talking about.

TMCNo1
03-10-2006, 01:01 PM
captkidd, DID YOU GET MY E-MAIL?

brianaw26
03-12-2006, 03:21 PM
Here is the current status

Started out like this.... UGLY :eek:
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/before.jpg

Sanded (not done)...
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/mid.jpg

Oiled...
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/done.jpg

I still need to attach the broken piece, but I want to get some new stainless screws. I will post a picture of the platform, completed.

ilikeitglacy
03-12-2006, 03:32 PM
now ya gettin there dude! keep us posted! :dance:

captkidd
03-17-2006, 03:59 PM
Hey Capt, I see that on your trailer uprights your pads go from the steps to the top of the poles. Did you shorten your uprights or do you have longer pads or have you not done a thing and that is just the way they are? Thanks man, your rig looks GREAT!
What Doug said. The uprights are stock. I know the newer boats sit higher on the trailers and therefore probably have longer guide poles.

Sorry for the late reply; I totally missed your responses, but thanks for the compliments guys. Ski*MC, I sent you a PM. Harold, I got your email and replied. I don't check my home email very often (don't care about pp enlargement or lower mortgage rates).

Sodar
03-17-2006, 04:07 PM
Thanks for the reply CaptKidd. Mine just seem to go much higher over the gunwale than yours. Must be one of those changes!

brianaw26
03-26-2006, 08:40 PM
DONE!!!! well 99.99% done

Started out like this.... UGLY :eek:
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/before.jpg

Sanded (not done)...
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/mid.jpg

Completed!! There is a small gap that you can see along the new plank.... tried forever to make it go away... O well it looks 300 times better than it dd when I started.. Thanks for all the help.
http://www.shadetreevettes.com/images/brian/Finish.JPEG

sorry for the crappy quality of the last image, My camera battery was dead and had to use my phone.

Andrť
03-26-2006, 08:59 PM
Nice work!Congrats!

aerojt
04-22-2006, 03:20 AM
I am on step one of the starbrite system right now.....I am going to clean one more time though, the black lines are still kind of there, maybe I'm being picky after looking at some on here.

I am going to throw in the sanding step after this cleaning though to smooth it out. Fine grit sand paper is next, followed by brightener, followed by many coats of oil......Wish me luck!

-JT

TMCNo1
04-22-2006, 02:20 PM
I am on step one of the starbrite system right now.....I am going to clean one more time though, the black lines are still kind of there, maybe I'm being picky after looking at some on here.

I am going to throw in the sanding step after this cleaning though to smooth it out. Fine grit sand paper is next, followed by brightener, followed by many coats of oil......Wish me luck!

-JT


Scrub it good with the bleach, then brightener [do not mix together or do at the same time] and a good STIFF brush, let it dry real good before starting to sand. Using a sanding block, sand wet then sand dry to get the fuzzy wood off the surface, then sand dry again, wipe with a damp towel, let dry good and take a tack rag to it before applying any oil to remove any remaining sanding dust.

aerojt
04-22-2006, 05:31 PM
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Back to the platform once I get off work tonight!

brianaw26
04-22-2006, 08:01 PM
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Back to the platform once I get off work tonight!

Good luck, mine was alot of work but definitly worth it.

BuoyChaser
04-27-2006, 02:21 PM
Okay, shes back on the boat. I'm done for this year. :steering:
on new teak, like on my '05 197 your saying just use the WHITE BOTTLE, good 'ole teak oil...

BuoyChaser
05-03-2006, 09:08 PM
okay, so many different thoughts ideas, tough to follow all them...so i took some bits-n-pieces from all the correspondence on here to clarify HOW TO DO TEAK into a Word Document...

of course was sure to give everyone credits for who said what...

BuoyChaser
05-03-2006, 09:54 PM
okay, here's the teak on my 2005 ProStar 197 after nothing has been done to it since at the factory...

the surface is very clean, but obviously very dried looking and the top is more faded than the bottom...

how should i start??? (follow Harold's instructions from Newsletter)
1. clean with soap & water
2. sand with 400grit wet/dry
3. ...

BuoyChaser
05-03-2006, 10:25 PM
here's my 1985 platform...teak is in great shape, but never been sanded down...going to start up with Harold's STEP 2: Sand with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper

BuoyChaser
05-04-2006, 05:35 PM
i was cleaning my teak swim platform on my 2005 last night and noticed right in the center between the two handles is a dark line with a knot in the center...sure enough it looks almost like a gouge...any suggestions on filling this in or protecting it???it is a good 1/4" deep and dark black...

looks like it was that way from the factory!!!

east tx skier
05-04-2006, 05:36 PM
They make teak plugs. I found some online when I was redrilling one of my brackets.

BuoyChaser
05-04-2006, 05:42 PM
They make teak plugs. I found some online when I was redrilling one of my brackets.
this is on the top surface, won't it be noticeable???

TMCNo1
05-04-2006, 05:48 PM
i was cleaning my teak swim platform on my 2005 last night and noticed right in the center between the two handles is a dark line with a knot in the center...sure enough it looks almost like a gouge...any suggestions on filling this in or protecting it???it is a good 1/4" deep and dark black...

looks like it was that way from the factory!!!


Sure has got me stumped, looks like someone tried unsuccessfully to repair a rotted area in the board and failed, yet the platform manufacturer used the piece of wood anyway to make the platform.
I would take it to my dealer, show it to him and see if they will get MC to replace it or get you another board to replace the bad board. :twocents:

captain planet
05-04-2006, 05:51 PM
You shouldn't have to do anything to protect it. I have a 98 and one of the slats on my platform has a knot on it. I haven't done anything to the knot at all. I doesn't snag swimsuits or cause splinters and it hasn't changed in 8 years so I haven't messed with it. If the platform is new or the boat is new, request a new platform or request a new piece of teak and replace it.

east tx skier
05-04-2006, 05:53 PM
this is on the top surface, won't it be noticeable???

Sure, if you look close. But it's noticeable as it is. I'd either not worry about it or see what the dealer is willing to do for you.

BuoyChaser
05-04-2006, 06:00 PM
You shouldn't have to do anything to protect it. I have a 98 and one of the slats on my platform has a knot on it. I haven't done anything to the knot at all. I doesn't snag swimsuits or cause splinters and it hasn't changed in 8 years so I haven't messed with it. If the platform is new or the boat is new, request a new platform or request a new piece of teak and replace it.
another one to add to my short list when she goes back up to the dealer!!!def'n looked like someone had tried to patch it...really good match but the wood was so thin probably just held in with oil or something...

not sure if the board will match up but guess it will...let the dealer figure it out...

Tom Wortham
05-04-2006, 06:54 PM
Before and after shots. Shame on me for letting it go as long as I did. :uglyhamme

aerojt
05-04-2006, 07:17 PM
Well here is my teak. This is just after coat 6, and 2 on the bottom. Any ideas how I can get it to really shine? I'm not sure if I like the rough or shiny look, but so far I think its coming good. I regret not taking a before shot, it was pretty bad......Enjoy

http://www.4x4shots.com/albums/userpics/10054/normal_Teak.JPG

TMCNo1
05-05-2006, 11:26 AM
this is on the top surface, won't it be noticeable???


Measure and find the center of the space between the two grab notches in the outside rail and the center of the bad place from the inside edge and the outside edge of the board the bad spot is in. Drill a 2" dia hole or larger if the area will take one, dress the edges up with sandpaper, teak oil it and tell everyone it's a cup holder, if you don't want to install a plug or the dealer won't replace the platform.

BuoyChaser
05-05-2006, 11:32 AM
Measure and find the center of the space between the two grab notches in the outside rail and the center of the bad place from the inside edge and the outside edge of the board the bad spot is in. Drill a 2" dia hole or larger if the area will take one, dress the edges up with sandpaper, teak oil it and tell everyone it's a cup holder, if you don't want to install a plug or the dealer won't replace the platform.
great idea, especially tough holding on with one hand doin' my last set jacuzzi run...notice with the solid platform the fumes don't dissipate as much, here i thought they were makin' my beer stronger!!! :toast:

buffskier
10-11-2006, 06:18 PM
I did the same thing to my 84 s&s last year with a telephone pole and some bad backing advice. I shattered the outermost 'rib' so was worse than yours.

I took a fine cutting skill saw and cut the broken last slat out. (about 4") I then went to afurniture maker who had a piece of raw teak he sold me and then he used his equipment to shape/router it to match the original. I re-affixed with gorilla glue and 4 stainless steel screws drilled in parallel to the ground and countersunk and applied four small teak plug hole covers. then light sanding and oiled like crazy. A day or two of sun & lake and they now match.

My only flaw was using a touch too much Gorilla Glue, which will expand through the cracks hours after application.

i am pretty happy

DooSPX
10-11-2006, 09:37 PM
Well here is my teak. This is just after coat 6, and 2 on the bottom. Any ideas how I can get it to really shine? I'm not sure if I like the rough or shiny look, but so far I think its coming good. I regret not taking a before shot, it was pretty bad......Enjoy

http://www.4x4shots.com/albums/userpics/10054/normal_Teak.JPG


:D what steps did you use, and what products did you use??? thats a beautiful plateform!!

TMCNo1
10-11-2006, 10:57 PM
:D what steps did you use, and what products did you use??? thats a beautiful plateform!!


link,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=176607&postcount=90

Bruce Carr
10-12-2006, 10:29 AM
Is my platfrom an aftermarket one? I see all the other platforms on the site and they all seem to have many more slats with less space between them? Or are there a few styles?

Brian,

Your platform is OEM. My friends "81 looks just like yours. My '83 has the narrower slats (More of them). Must have made the change in 82-83.

atlfootr
11-01-2006, 01:27 PM
I haven't yet read the other 112 post prior to (mine) this one, but as of this morn'n
before head'n to work I removed both swim platforms of my BF200 w/ great intentions of repaint'n the mounts and teaking both platforms this comn'n weekend. :)

DooSPX
11-01-2006, 07:37 PM
here is mine...
taken at the reunion...
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00064.jpg

atlfootr
11-05-2006, 01:06 PM
I haven't yet read the other 112 post prior to (mine) this one, but as of this morn'n
before head'n to work I removed both swim platforms of my BF200 w/ great intentions of repaint'n the mounts and teaking both platforms this comn'n weekend. :)
I've got 'em taken apart and now about to head out to HD and West Marine and pick a few things to get the job done.
My buddy TScott suggested I take some pic's as I go through the process, I post 'em after the job's complete :D

SkiDog
11-05-2006, 02:09 PM
Hey Footer, I used to use a product called Teak Shield on my platform on my 88 prostar. This stuff is GREAT! Its not a teak oil, and its not a varnish. Its simply a sealer that you apply in as many coats as you want, and it doesn't have to be recoated for up to a year! This is truly an amazing product! And its made in Jacksonville. These people will direct ship to you I think. Hell, they may even remember me from when I used their products. I promise you, you'll love it!
www.shieldproducts.com/index.htm

SSMoose
06-03-2013, 02:28 PM
Restart thread on teak repair. My 83 platform was missing the rearmost piece when I bought it. What should I do to repair and where should I look for wood? I really want to bring it back without having to get a whole new one.

Rockman
06-03-2013, 02:36 PM
Restart thread on teak repair. My 83 platform was missing the rearmost piece when I bought it. What should I do to repair and where should I look for wood? I really want to bring it back without having to get a whole new one.

Contact Teak World in Lebanon TN. They have anything you may need. Service was great. Alot of peeps on here have used them.

We needed one replacement slat for our 190 platform and price was very good.

SSMoose
06-03-2013, 05:34 PM
Contact Teak World in Lebanon TN. They have anything you may need. Service was great. Alot of peeps on here have used them.

We needed one replacement slat for our 190 platform and price was very good.

Thanks, Rockman! I will contact them shortly.:D

SSMoose
06-21-2013, 10:30 PM
I just received my replacement parts today from Teakworld. Looking good so far, I still have to oil and install. Price, you ask? Unbelievably low! Shipping from UPS in Tennessee to South Carolina was low. I am really pleased with both the product and the service.