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rmbrinner
02-18-2006, 06:39 PM
I just recently received new skins from Mastercraft due to pinking problems on the original skins of my 02 X-Star. I was quoted a price of $1500 to install them.

Has anyone attempted this task before? If so, any instructions and tips would be greatly appreciated, as I would really like to save the money and do it myself if possible.

88 PS190
02-18-2006, 06:43 PM
Depends on the quality of the padding, so long as that's good, its just pulling the old ones, and working the new ones on, and all creases out, then using stainless staples to reattach the skins.

Dunno how hard it'll be on an 02 X-Star, only ever messed around on a rear jump seat, and it was a pain to get the staples into the plastic seat base.

east tx skier
02-18-2006, 06:58 PM
I'd say that some seats are probably more difficult to get to fit just right than others. The only ones I've done are my observer seat base, and the jump seat I built. Like the man said, stainless staples and start from the middle and work your way to the corners.

Biggest pain for me was getting the old staples out. There are a bunch of them.

Good luck.

Ryan
02-18-2006, 07:10 PM
I just recently received new skins from Mastercraft due to pinking problems on the original skins of my 02 X-Star. I was quoted a price of $1500 to install them.

Has anyone attempted this task before? If so, any instructions and tips would be greatly appreciated, as I would really like to save the money and do it myself if possible.


Long time no see. How's the new transmission holding up?

wiltok
02-18-2006, 07:12 PM
FWIW - I just had the observer seat, and both sides of the sun pad replaced on my 2001 X-9. The bill for materials and labor was $650.

Tom023
02-19-2006, 12:23 AM
I have 11 new skins waiting for installation as well. I tried using an electric stapler but it wasn't powerful enough to drive the staples in to the seat bases. I then purchased one that works on a compressor and it does a great job, no problems getting the staples driven in just right. I think it cost about $100 from www.nailgundepot.com. Of course, use stainless staples.

east tx skier
02-19-2006, 12:34 AM
I did mine with a regular old Stanley staple gun no problems.

BIGBADBLUE
02-19-2006, 08:57 AM
I did mine as well with a Stanley. The best advise i got from my dealer was to bend the end of a flat tip screw driver about 75 degrees ... makes getting the staples out much easier.

The job of installing the skins is just time consuming especially if you are anal. I have only done my observers, drivers and rear seats on my 94 205

rmbrinner
02-19-2006, 11:59 AM
Did you have any problems with the Stanley? I want this to be as easy as possible, and if I am saving the $1500 by doing it myself, I wouldn't mind paying for a good stapler if it would make the job a little eaiser. The only problem with getting the one Tom suggested is that I don't have an air compressor, and would rather not have to purchase one.

Also, not having any experience in doing upolstery work myself, am I going to risk screwing this up?

east tx skier
02-19-2006, 12:05 PM
There is always a risk of screwing it up. I'd be lying if I told you otherwise. And as I previously mentioned, I'd be willing to bet that things like the motorbox are tougher than things like the seat base. Of course, my o-seat base had that curve in it that made it a royal pain.

I have not had a bit of trouble with the Stanley staple gun, which I believe I purchased at Target for $10 or so. It has gotten me through two projects of attaching vinyl and performed perfectly in putting new carpet on my trailer bunks.

Tom023
02-19-2006, 12:13 PM
RMBRINNER,

I would suggest giving the cheapest gun a try first. My seat bases are some type of hard plastic, like Starboard. I tried a hand stapler and an electric and could only drive a 3/8" staple in about three quarters of the way, then I had to tap in with a hammer. Royal PITA when you are talking a lot of staples. I bought the air stapler because I didn't want to deal with all those thousand of staples by hand. Definitely try an inexpensive one and see how it goes.

east tx skier
02-19-2006, 12:15 PM
I think that's great advice. At worst, you pull a few staples out and return the cheap one.

Oh, and the long bent flat head screwdriver is key to getting the old ones out.

Tom023
02-19-2006, 12:20 PM
I found this tool in my tool box and used it to pull the stables. I'm not really sure what it is but it works great for getting under them and pulling them up.

rmbrinner
02-19-2006, 05:25 PM
Thank you for all the suggestions! I think I might check with some more Upholstery shops in the Memphis area first, as some of your replies have made me question whehter I should get into this considering I would be recovering every vinyl piece in the boat.

Kevin 89MC
02-20-2006, 02:53 PM
You'll want a pneumatic stapler for going into plastic/fiberglass. The hand powered ones work fine for wood, but useless for plastic/fiberglass. I tried re-attaching the carpet along the bottom of my engine cover with my hand held one, and it didn't even scratch the fiberglass. I haven't tried an electric one, but sounds like they might not do it either. A small compressor is all it would take, and it would have many other uses (filling tires, balls, etc.)

I'm going to delve into re-skinning mine soon, and can't really afford to pay for it, so my mind's made up! I say save the money & gain a skill, if you have the time & desire. Of course mine's an '89, so I won't be too picky if it's not perfect.
Good luck.

Hoff1
02-20-2006, 03:32 PM
I think for $1500, I would definitely try and do a couple myself. If you mess up, you can always remove the new staples and try again or pay someone to do it.

Having done a few skins in the past, I can appreciate the pain of an entire boat. My bench seatback was incredibly difficult to get the skin on because it's got so many angles and lines (plus my sewing job wasn't too good). I looked like a hyeina out in the back yard jumping around with the seat and skin. Didn't realize how dumb I looked until I saw my brother and his girlfriend at the window laughing.

Removing the skins yourself would definitely make the price of installation cheaper. Easy to do, just time consuming. I used a knife for mine. I used a Stanely manual powered as well, but had wood backing on the seats as opposed to plastic/fiberglass.

east tx skier
02-20-2006, 04:28 PM
You'll want a pneumatic stapler for going into plastic/fiberglass. The hand powered ones work fine for wood, but useless for plastic/fiberglass. I tried re-attaching the carpet along the bottom of my engine cover with my hand held one, and it didn't even scratch the fiberglass. I haven't tried an electric one, but sounds like they might not do it either. A small compressor is all it would take, and it would have many other uses (filling tires, balls, etc.)

I'm going to delve into re-skinning mine soon, and can't really afford to pay for it, so my mind's made up! I say save the money & gain a skill, if you have the time & desire. Of course mine's an '89, so I won't be too picky if it's not perfect.
Good luck.

Stanley manual worked fine for me and I've got the plastic seat bottom. I almost want to say that it was easier to stable into than wood.

Kevin 89MC
02-20-2006, 05:23 PM
Stanley manual worked fine for me and I've got the plastic seat bottom. I almost want to say that it was easier to stable into than wood.
Now that I think about it, I did not try to staple into any plastic, just the fiberglass. Now you got me wondering if my observer's seat is plastic or wood. I'll know in a little bit. I may still have to buy a pneumatic stapler anyways! You can't have too many tools!

rmbrinner
02-21-2006, 09:31 AM
What was the comment about sewing for? If you have the skins, you don't have to so anything, do you?

east tx skier
02-21-2006, 10:12 AM
rmbrinner, I think he said the skins he got were not sewn particularly well. That's how I took it anyway. I did not have that problem with the skins I've ordered.

You're correct, they come presewn.

Hoff1
02-21-2006, 11:48 AM
I didn't buy skins. I repaired them myself. I only had a few places that were ripped, so I cut out the damaged parts and sewed in new pieces. Here's my before/after shots. Only did the dark gray that was ripped

rmbrinner
02-21-2006, 10:00 PM
Glad to hear that. There is no way I could have done it if there was any sewing involved. I haven't even seen the skins yet, as they are still in boxes at my local MC shop. I think I am going to give it a try. If I don't feel to confident about my ability after doing a couple cushions, then I can always take it to a local uhpolstery shop.

88 PS190
02-21-2006, 10:27 PM
I can't see anyone justifying 1500$ for installing skins. i'd look for a new quote before committing

Leroy
02-22-2006, 12:27 AM
Why isn't MC installing also? Assuming that they sent the skins for free.



I just recently received new skins from Mastercraft due to pinking problems on the original skins of my 02 X-Star. I was quoted a price of $1500 to install them.

Has anyone attempted this task before? If so, any instructions and tips would be greatly appreciated, as I would really like to save the money and do it myself if possible.

rmbrinner
02-22-2006, 09:33 AM
If you read above you would have seen that MC has already done more than enough. I am the third owner of this boat and it is not under warranty anymore. I think the free skins is a pretty good deal in itself. I wouldn't have even expected them to do that given the situation. Secondly, the dealer is the one that would have to install at their expense, and I didn't purchase the boat from my local MC shop as I bought it out of state from the 2nd owner.

TRBenj
02-22-2006, 10:51 AM
FWIW, I was quoted $1200 to replace all the skins on my boat- I own a '90 Ski Nautique (closed bow). *ducks*

This price includes all new foam as well as labor, but not the vinyl. My quote is from a very highly recommended shop. $1500 sounds a little high if it only includes the labor (no foam), as I have been told there can easily be $300-400 worth of quality foam in a boat like mine.

While I do most of the work on my boat myself, installing vinyl is not something I want to tackle on my own, considering the price of new skins if I make a mistake. Besides, Im sure a pro will make it look much better than I could.

My $.02

east tx skier
02-22-2006, 11:05 AM
For an open bow, $1,500, while a lot of money, sounds about on par with what I've seen for installation by a reputable shop. The bottom line is that it's tedious and time consuming work. They're charging you a lot because one of their employees will be sitting in your boat for the better part of a couple of days and will not be working on anything else. Some pieces require more experience to get it done just right. I'd save them for last. Start with a square (or relatively square seat bottom) and work your way up the difficulty scale from there.

You're right, by the time you're done with a couple, you'll know if you're up for the task. If you're patient, and you work from the center to the edges and keep pulling it tight, you can make it look as good as a pro.

I hate doing this kind of stuff only slightly less than I hate parting with money for something I'm capable of doing. In the end, with the seats I've done, I don't think they could've been done much better.

Jimmy Stephens
02-22-2006, 08:49 PM
lay the skins out in the sun will make the job go faster :steering:

X-45
02-23-2006, 06:21 AM
I found this tool in my tool box and used it to pull the stables. I'm not really sure what it is but it works great for getting under them and pulling them up.

It's a tool used to take the panel off a car door.

:steering:

Tom023
02-23-2006, 10:00 AM
Some pieces require more experience to get it done just right. I'd save them for last. Start with a square (or relatively square seat bottom) and work your way up the difficulty scale from there.

This is really good advice. Some of the more complex skins have "extra" backing material sewn on, kind of like flaps. Be sure to notice exactly how the old skins were attached, because these "flaps" need to be pulled tight and stapled down the same way. They are used to pull the skins tight into curved portions of the seats. Just look carefully as you remove the old ones and you should be fine.

Tom023
02-23-2006, 10:03 AM
It's a tool used to take the panel off a car door.

Thanks, that makes sense. I've probably had it since high school when I worked on cars. Anyway, it sure works good on the staples.

nvborn
03-22-2006, 05:25 PM
Mind if I ask how much you paid for you new skins? I've got a '91 tristar 190 that I'd like to re-skin, but I'm not sure if it's in my budget.

east tx skier
03-22-2006, 05:35 PM
Mind if I ask how much you paid for you new skins? I've got a '91 tristar 190 that I'd like to re-skin, but I'm not sure if it's in my budget.

I updated the FAQ yesterday and listed a range of prices I was quoted a year or so ago for replacement skins for my boat. Might give you a ballpark on what it will cost to go with the MC skins.

starman205
03-23-2006, 10:30 AM
ETS, I'm putting new skins on the rear bench seat cushion of my 93 PS205. You have stated previously to start from the middle and work to the sides. Do you start from the middle on both sides and work to the ends? :wavey:

east tx skier
03-23-2006, 10:38 AM
Yes. That's how I've done it. If anyone claiming expertise in that area tells you differently though, listen to them.

When I set that first stable, I tried to make sure tha the top seam was lined up with the top edge of the foam cushion. I'd set the middle staple on one side, then flip it around and do the same for the other side in the center so as not to pull it over too far on the first side. Just seemed to make sense to me at the time.

firstmc
03-23-2006, 04:14 PM
I got a quote for $2400 for all the skins(just the skins) for my 98 PS190.. I thought this was way high. If you know where to get a better deal please PM me. Thanks!!

OhioProstar
03-23-2006, 04:47 PM
$2400 is about right. Check with a couple of the dealers on this board. BAWS, MYMC..