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dichdoc
02-17-2006, 11:10 PM
Well, peer pressure is a *****! It's -20 today My sled was in 300 pieces and we have a five week old baby. Put the sled back together and the baby was napping so what the hell, lets tear the boat apart! Took two hours to strip her down. I believe it was original carpet (tucked up high on the sides,between hull and foam). I only pulled back the one side before I ran out of time. The Fiberglass floor on the sides of the motor has "bubbled" and pulled away from the foam underneath. There's probably four bubbles around one foot in diameter where you could push it down 1/4". Can anyone point me to a thread or tell me how to fix it? The carpet is laid under the angle iron that supports the motor. Will I need to pull all the lag bolts and raise the motor to lay carpet under again? I read a thread on rub rail replacement where it was stated to drill the rivets and replace with bolts and nuts. How do you access the nuts I seem to have foam everywhere under the rail. I'll post pics tomorrow Travis

ski_king
02-17-2006, 11:26 PM
Check this thread out. I think there were some photos, but they are gone now.

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=2577&highlight=floor

1984StarsandStripes
02-17-2006, 11:29 PM
Glad to see some more '84's on the site I have a red and tan. I wish you well in your resto. I am sure someone will point you in the right direction shortly might want to try the search feature on "Carpet removal" or "Carpet R&R". What color is your boat?
Good Luck 84 S&S

dichdoc
02-18-2006, 12:46 PM
Here's some pics so far. A before shot is available in the order of restoration thread. She's blue grey. I re-read that thread on the floor I sure wish those pics were still there anyone have them? I'm thinking I'll cut the bubbles out remove old foam and spray new in cut it flush and glass epoxy patch what do you think? I assumed the angle iron was lagged but from the thread I gather they are bolts thats nice.

ski_king
02-18-2006, 12:57 PM
This old ad showing the floor construction may be of some help.
http://www.tmcowners.com/photopost/data/500/medium/2705_3.jpg

X-45
02-18-2006, 04:57 PM
This old ad showing the floor construction may be of some help.


Is this from the book you just bought from e-bay

:steering:

ski_king
02-18-2006, 05:12 PM
Is this from the book you just bought from e-bay

:steering:
From an old ad, I linked from Farmers gallery.

ski_king
02-18-2006, 05:18 PM
Here is a photo from the 84 brochure.

dichdoc
02-18-2006, 07:20 PM
Those pics are a huge help. You can see the foam I'm talking about in the gunwale area where the rub rail rivets in how do you put nuts and bolts in there? TB

ski_king
02-18-2006, 07:46 PM
I dont see any way other than digging out the foam for each bolt. Then maybe refoam with spray in foam.

dichdoc
02-18-2006, 08:39 PM
Looking for:

Carpet, what weight and where to buy?

rub rail, Wanted Aluminum with black insert dealer?

Fiberglass and Epoxy, what type of cloth for floor and supplier?

tph
02-19-2006, 01:33 PM
Looking for:

Carpet, what weight and where to buy?

rub rail, Wanted Aluminum with black insert dealer?

Fiberglass and Epoxy, what type of cloth for floor and supplier?

Taco Marine manufactures the rub rail and insert.

88 PS190
02-19-2006, 03:05 PM
Carpet is kind of a personal preference, are you going for factory style? or a heavier weight better carpet? Could help to look at a new boat w/ different carpet options. See what you like.

ski_king
02-19-2006, 08:05 PM
Looking for:

rub rail, Wanted Aluminum with black insert dealer?


Looks like style 5 of this to me.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/6544/10001/618/0/0
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/alumrubrail_f.gif
Price is around $70, but itmsut be shipped by motor freight which can be big $$. Do you have a local West Marine?

ski_king
02-19-2006, 08:08 PM
Here are the inserts.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/30580/10001/618/0/0

dichdoc
02-20-2006, 12:15 PM
Made pretty good progress yesterday. Removed all the carpet, cut hole in floor to "look" at bubble. It is similiar to other post on the subject. 3 rows of three holes aproximately 2 inches each covered in a layer of thin fiberglass tape. Foam got wet and degraded or froze and popped the 1/8" fiberglass floor loose from the black "W's". Looked like I had a layer of Glueish stuff troweled on with a notched trowel? My thought is to cut out the two area on either side of the motor (18" x72") where its bad and clean it up and reglass. Should I remove all the foam as long as I'm there and put new in? any thoughts? TB

dichdoc
02-20-2006, 12:27 PM
Yesterday I also got two small surprises. 1:Learned I have a big fuel filter on passenger side of tank, will work at getting it apart and cleaning. 2: I had "access" covers installed in the floor under the tank. They were sealed down completely. I had to unscrew and pry them off they were stuck to the foam insulation. Someone had "repaired" the swim platform previously. They used 1/4" stainless bolts with nylocks no washers or backing plates. It LEAKED the foam was wet the transom appears to be in good shape still. The top nuts were just above the floor and had been epoxied in. My thoughts on repair was to use a stainless backer plate with 5/16" bolts welded. Stick the bolts out the holes as studs, epoxy and glass the inside. Bolt the bracket back on with cap nuts so it looks pretty. do you see any problems with the stud method or should I bolt from the outside in? TB

tph
02-20-2006, 01:50 PM
It might be a good time to consider changing over to removeable brackets.

X-45
02-20-2006, 01:56 PM
It might be a good time to consider changing over to removeable brackets.


I second that motion!!

:uglyhamme

dichdoc
02-20-2006, 02:53 PM
Show me some pics! Every thread I search talks about all these great pictures that no longer exist. I like the idea of removable for more room in garage but the rattle thing has me leary. Wow I'm up to 18 posts when do I officially loose my Lurker status? I'm thinking of quiting my job to try and catch EastTexas skier!TB

roddydog
02-20-2006, 03:21 PM
Should I remove all the foam as long as I'm there and put new in? any thoughts? TB
I'd say, while you're in there do it right and take out ALL the old stuff then you know what's in there and you won't be guessing later on.

tph
02-20-2006, 08:11 PM
Show me some pics! Every thread I search talks about all these great pictures that no longer exist. I like the idea of removable for more room in garage but the rattle thing has me leary. Wow I'm up to 18 posts when do I officially loose my Lurker status? I'm thinking of quiting my job to try and catch EastTexas skier!TB

The '89 I'm working on has "two part" brackets that remove with a few bolts. They are very sturdy and don't rattle at all. I'll try to get some pictures.

Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:25 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:25 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:26 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:27 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:27 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:29 PM
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Cloaked
02-20-2006, 08:32 PM
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dichdoc
02-20-2006, 10:09 PM
Great pics sporty, what would you think about bolts coming from the inside? Also anyone have thoughts on removing windshield to buff gel coat easier? Is it just screwed down? TB

brianaw26
02-20-2006, 10:17 PM
ive wonderd the same thing myself about the windshield

Cloaked
02-20-2006, 11:54 PM
The windshield screws off. Go underneath and extract the screws. No big deal there.

As for the thru-bolts, I'd think either way would suffuce, however I'd prefer the head of the bold on the outside. If I'd had the time when I was working on this, I'd have tack welded the nuts to the plate.

Brn85ss
02-21-2006, 12:00 PM
I also have the two piece brackets on my 85'.Two aluminum blocks bolt to the transom with four bolts each.The brackets are attached to the blocks with two bolts each.If you only take your platform off acouple times a year this set up is ideal,it's very sturdy but only takes a minute to remove.My 85 is the only S&S I have ever seen with these brackets,they came with the boat when when it was bought new.Mine are off the boat right now and are on the way to the powder coater.

Tom Wortham
02-21-2006, 12:19 PM
Please post some pics when you get them back. Curious. Tom

dichdoc
02-21-2006, 08:51 PM
Yesterday I ordered Fiberglass and Epoxy from Raka and Rub Rail from West Marine. Today I removed the second platform bracket, the rub rail, and the decals. I've figured out a way to save all that money for new decals... I'm pioneering the new look of blue on blue! It will be interesting to see how well this buffs out with the precision auto kit. BRN85ss are you doing a "two coat" powder coating? Heres a pic with the rub rail and decals gone.

dichdoc
02-21-2006, 09:01 PM
Anyone able to tell me about the stickers? The round one was on both sides the letters and numbers on the passenger side only. Wondering if the gel coat will buff out enough or if I'll have to have some kind of replacement made.

Farmer Ted
02-21-2006, 09:27 PM
Anyone able to tell me about the stickers? The round one was on both sides the letters and numbers on the passenger side only. Wondering if the gel coat will buff out enough or if I'll have to have some kind of replacement made.


Gus Campbell Watersports in Monroe Louisiana has a bunch of those round stickers in his display case.

318-388-1259 I think they're $20 a peice

SKI*MC
02-21-2006, 09:48 PM
Check out Rambo Marine, they have everything there.

www.rambomarine.com

furevo
02-22-2006, 03:02 PM
Well, peer pressure is a *****! It's -20 today My sled was in 300 pieces and we have a five week old baby. Put the sled back together and the baby was napping so what the hell, lets tear the boat apart! Took two hours to strip her down. I believe it was original carpet (tucked up high on the sides,between hull and foam). I only pulled back the one side before I ran out of time. The Fiberglass floor on the sides of the motor has "bubbled" and pulled away from the foam underneath. There's probably four bubbles around one foot in diameter where you could push it down 1/4". Can anyone point me to a thread or tell me how to fix it? The carpet is laid under the angle iron that supports the motor. Will I need to pull all the lag bolts and raise the motor to lay carpet under again? I read a thread on rub rail replacement where it was stated to drill the rivets and replace with bolts and nuts. How do you access the nuts I seem to have foam everywhere under the rail. I'll post pics tomorrow Travis

I believe those 'bubbles' are where the flooring has delaminated from the stringers. My easy fix was reattaching the floor to the stingers w/ countersunk stainless steel screws. I snapped a stringline, predrilled the holes, dripped epoxy in the holes to bond between stringer and floor, then screwed about every 2-3 inches. The screws sort of dimple the floor & I 'floated' epoxy around each dimple to seal and conceal the screws. It made it really solid. If you search this issue, there are very helpful measurements from someone who tore his floor apart.

Don't pull the angle iron to remove the old carpet. Cut the carpet to the mount. I used indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowe's. JRandol and Mag Red detailed their install and Sporty was a great help, too.

dichdoc
02-22-2006, 09:49 PM
Removed windshield and dash today. Windshield was held down with two screws and about 12 machine screws. Has anyone had luck powder coating the windshield frame? Can you reuse the rubber? What should I use to replace the sticky black foam where it meets the gel coat? I spoke with Larry at Raka the other day and we formulated a plan for my floor. I'm going to cut the delaminated area out clean it all up replace the foam with new and reuse the floor sections, epoxy them back to the stringers and add a few screws. Then using 10 oz tape redo all the seams and I'm going to cover the Foam holes as well as I feel that is a place where water can get in. Thanks to everyone for your ongoing help! TB

dichdoc
02-22-2006, 09:54 PM
Any ideas for the dash panels? I saw a tip in a Rod & Custom magazine years ago where they used a drill press and some type of abrasive thing to make swirls on the metal. Any other ideas out there?

SKI*MC
02-22-2006, 10:04 PM
Get it painted the same color as the boat when you get that far...? Have it chromed?

88 PS190
02-22-2006, 10:14 PM
What you are refering to is called jeweling. It is very commonplace to do it to rifle bolts etc. It would look very trick. But it depends what look you are going for, the jeweled dash would take a LONG time to do, ie. to do one side of a ruger 10/22 bolt takes upwards of 30 minutes using that technique, and w/ the drill press method. I think it would be classy looking. Keep in mind that each movement of the material must be carefully monitered and precise as well as very small ie. a couple mm per time.

Check out the following link. It is a firearm related site so i hope no one takes offense. But it is an accurate description of the process. And you will need to make a jig to hold the piece still and allow the accurate movements required. Depending you may decide to make larger swirl marks, or make it more random, like the brushed aluminum you see around guages on speed boats etc. That's your choice...

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116961

ski_king
02-22-2006, 11:26 PM
Any ideas for the dash panels? I saw a tip in a Rod & Custom magazine years ago where they used a drill press and some type of abrasive thing to make swirls on the metal. Any other ideas out there?
Is that dash alunimum or alunimum colored plastic?
Mine was plastic with wood grain and it was cracking so I replaced it with 1/4 in. oak plywood with about 10 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane.

If your is aluminum you may want to see it you can find a place to get it anodized locally, they can anodize in most any color. Paint is another choice, but it can chip easier.
It may be tough to get the swirl finish on it as it in the area of the bends if you go that way.

This is my oak dash.

88 PS190
02-23-2006, 01:44 AM
I was thinking he'd do swirl up to a certain line, then he could polish the corners... you can get the jeweled surface to do all sorts of things w/ some patience.

dichdoc
02-23-2006, 09:43 PM
Great Rsponses thanks for the link to the web site and the name of the process. I'm going to keep researching it, I think I'd do it in three sections with a little larger diameter "swirl". I took the day off today for a change of scenery, Ross Peak in the Bridger Range 30 inches of snow on the 21st and 22nd.

richardsoncd
02-24-2006, 12:47 AM
Anyone able to tell me about the stickers? The round one was on both sides the letters and numbers on the passenger side only. Wondering if the gel coat will buff out enough or if I'll have to have some kind of replacement made.

You can find those stickers on this site in the Marketplace, I got two for my boat and they look great.

dichdoc
02-24-2006, 10:43 PM
Here's my first attempt at jeweling. I used a 2" scotchbrite pad (the kind that chucks into a die grinder, etc.) Chucked into my drill press and just free handed it to see if it would work on some scrap. I'd use a more precise vise on the final run. Do you think 2" circles are to large?

Farmer Ted
02-24-2006, 11:17 PM
Here's my first attempt at jeweling. I used a 2" scotchbrite pad (the kind that chucks into a die grinder, etc.) Chucked into my drill press and just free handed it to see if it would work on some scrap. I'd use a more precise vise on the final run. Do you think 2" circles are to large?


If you can do that to your dash it will look sweet!

Great idea

88 PS190
02-24-2006, 11:24 PM
Maybe go one size smaller. You want to keep it noticeable, but i think 2" makes for too few rows. More rows will probably show better since you are going to have guages and the steering wheel etc. covering up your nice work. Therefore i think making more circles will likely look better.

Also this can be redone over itself if you screw up, i'm sure the link i posted before mentioned this, but the swirls are real shallow if they're done w/ the compound described. I'm not sure using the scotchbrite pad how deep they go.

But good luck, I might have to redo the cracking plastic on our 88 this summer... Might just have to copy your thought pattern.

1984StarsandStripes
02-27-2006, 05:03 PM
Remember back when the Pontiac used that on the dashes in the seventies. It was called engine turning and was on the dashes of my '79 Firebird Formula and it was used on several others cars as well. You can get the material from Ames Performance and I think Original Parts Group had it as well.(PM me if you need more details on where to get it.) It comes in a room just don't know if it would be tall enough to cover the entire height. I used the 2" stochbrite method on the back of my race car seat but only let half of the pad touch for more of a half moon shape and overlapped them, looked good but it was much bigger. i would recommend trying a smaller diameter or trying a half pad method or cutting the diameter with some scissors. Good Luck! make sur eyou post some pictures of the final product!

M-Funf
02-27-2006, 05:21 PM
Another option would be to anodize the panel the same color as your hull color (blue or red), but that will show scratches more than the jewelling.

M-Funf
02-27-2006, 05:26 PM
It will be interesting to see how well this buffs out with the precision auto kit.

What is this precision auto kit? Gelcoat repair/rejuvanation?

:toast:

east tx skier
02-27-2006, 05:26 PM
Is that dash alunimum or alunimum colored plastic?
Mine was plastic with wood grain and it was cracking so I replaced it with 1/4 in. oak plywood with about 10 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane.

If your is aluminum you may want to see it you can find a place to get it anodized locally, they can anodize in most any color. Paint is another choice, but it can chip easier.
It may be tough to get the swirl finish on it as it in the area of the bends if you go that way.

This is my oak dash.

That looks great, Denny.

But if you're more comfortable with the woodgrain decal, you can try Stripeman (http://www.stripeman.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WGD). This is what they used OEM on old Jeep Grand Wagoneers. Made by 3M.

iokua
02-27-2006, 06:08 PM
If you haven't put your new rubrail on yet, I suggest using ss screws - coarse thread. I got a bunch at a local marine store; just drill and screw in - make sure they are just long enough to go through the 'glass though, too far and you could screw into the speedo tubes. I found out the hard way and had to replace the speedo tubes running down the Starboard side. Don't remember how many screws I used but it has worked great so far. I did have problems with water getting in behind the new rubrail after it was installed - it took a few tries to seal both the top and bottom of the rubrail where it meets the fiberglass. The worst part is getting the insert into the rail - I presoaked the insert in a tub of hot/warm water as well as used a heat gun while shoving it in.

As for the swim platform, I sealed the top holes in the transom (since the bottom holes seemed okay) with epoxy, then drilled one single, centered hole for a through bolt. The holed was drilled at a slight enough angle so the bolt came through the transom just above the floor so I didn't have to cut a hole in th floor to attach bolts. Then I used as big of a backer plate as I could. Has held 2 adults without any problems. FYI: when I "repaired" my transom/swim platform bracket holes, I dug out some metal threaded inserts that were embedded into the transom. I don' t know if this was factory or installed by the previous owner as an attempted fix. I can't imagine the inserts not being there from the factory, though. That's why I made the final decision to through bolt rather than re use existing.

I just did most of what you're doing to my '85 SS last year, so if you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask!

BTW: I got my carpet from Lowes. Not the factory color, but cost less.

dichdoc
02-27-2006, 07:08 PM
In my research of jeweling I found it is also called engine turning . doweling, the finish of a thousand names, etc. etc.. I attempted it yesterday on the guage cluster piece and was not satisifed with the results I attempted the wood dowel and rubbing compound with no success. I attepted a stone wheel that simply walked across the surface, a wire brush that cut to deep, a 1/2" metal rod and 400 grit sandpaper didn't work either. I settled on the 3M scotchbrite pad cut down to 1" It looked good but the pad wore out to soon (went through four in three rows) It would cut good in the begining and get lighter as you went. I finally broke down and ordered an engine turning tool from the Eastwood Company for $30.00 I'll let you know when I get it!

The gel coat buffing kit was from Proper Autocare I saw before and after pics on the site somewhere but couldn't find them now It has all the compounds and buffing wheels and instructions! should be here tomorrow!

iokua, Did you fill the old rivet holes with epoxy or just try and miss them with the screws? I was thinking screws with the occasional nut and bolt combo?

dichdoc
02-27-2006, 07:26 PM
Looking for the name of the font used on an 84 to match Registration Numbers. Also any good sources? I tried searching but couldn't come up with anything for an 84. I tried to call Stellar signs off Ebay but number was disconected.

tph
02-28-2006, 01:07 AM
Looking for the name of the font used on an 84 to match Registration Numbers. Also any good sources? I tried searching but couldn't come up with anything for an 84. I tried to call Stellar signs off Ebay but number was disconected.

I think it's called Bookman Old Style.

ski_king
02-28-2006, 07:05 AM
I think it's called Bookman Old Style.
I had some made from a guy on Ebay. If I remember right, the price was around $25.00 with shipping. The font is a good match.

PM me and I will try to find his email address.

iokua
02-28-2006, 11:11 AM
I initially began filling all the old rivet holes but quickly realized it was going to be fairly labor intensive (not getting filler all over myself and the boat), so I never finished. I just staggered the holes - this could be why I was having problems with water getting into the boat through the rubrail.

tph
02-28-2006, 12:13 PM
I initially began filling all the old rivet holes but quickly realized it was going to be fairly labor intensive (not getting filler all over myself and the boat), so I never finished. I just staggered the holes - this could be why I was having problems with water getting into the boat through the rubrail.

I put shorter rivets in the old holes and staggered the new holes.

dichdoc
02-28-2006, 10:31 PM
Gel coat kit came today and here is a pic of it after buffing only. Still need to polish. What do you think? The blue is close, the grey still had a little yellow tinge but I'm pretty happy. There should be a "before" pic posted earlier.

dichdoc
02-28-2006, 10:36 PM
I've got the floor section cut out and I'm letting the foam dry out (removed most). Wondering if I should sand down the cream colored stuff on top of the black stringers before I apply new epoxy?

Cloaked
02-28-2006, 11:50 PM
Looks good..real good on the buff.

.

X-45
03-01-2006, 07:54 AM
This thread just went to 5 stars.

:cool:

dichdoc
03-03-2006, 08:58 PM
Replaced the floor sections today. Should have bought one gallon instead of 1/2! Went well except one side wanted to curl up a little.

jimmer2880
03-04-2006, 12:45 PM
Wow... great work! Looks good!

As far as welding nuts onto the backing plate for your swim platform. I did that on an old Supra I once had. I used steel, and it made it incredibly strong. Also, when I put the brackets back on, I used a very large amount of sealant in the holes, and on the plate. Never had any problems. Don't forget to put loctite on the bolts. Do that even if you use lock-nuts. The idea is to keep water from going through the threads.

If possible, I'd try to make the plate out of stainless. You would have to find someone who can weld stainless with stainless (I can weld stainless, but with a regular carbon rod - so the weld itself isn't stainless when I'm done).

Looks great. Keep on going.

dichdoc
03-04-2006, 07:08 PM
I've already got the plates cut and drilled I uses 303 stainless and I can weld Stainless (Millermatic 250 mig). I'm used to working with mild steel, trying to drill the stainless was harder than Chinese math! I'm going to try bolts from the inside out and epoxying them in. Waiting for the platform brackets to get back from powder coater so I can test fit them before I commit.

jayderwin1
03-04-2006, 08:13 PM
thats a great idea about the swim platform bolt inside out. where you able to buff your boat to where you don't see where the decals use to be?

dichdoc
03-05-2006, 10:59 AM
No, I can still see where the decals were but it came back pretty close and looks way better than it did.

ski_king
03-05-2006, 11:09 AM
Have you tried 303 on it yet? You may be suprised with the results.

Keep the photos coming, this thread is great!

dichdoc
03-05-2006, 03:44 PM
303 is on my list of things to get. I've got one coat of teak sealer on my platform today and am looking for a source for the 100,000 grit sand paper.

insocova
03-05-2006, 10:19 PM
www.geocities.com/insocova let me know what yall think

Cloaked
03-05-2006, 10:57 PM
www.geocities.com/insocova let me know what yall think
Don't be jacking this thread... :uglyhamme


I saw your boat in your thread.... :guitar:

SKI*MC
03-05-2006, 11:05 PM
wow that is great!

dichdoc
03-20-2006, 10:13 PM
Got my stuff back from powder coater Friday. Polished side windows (plexiglass) with meguiers plastic cleaner and Polisher came out nice. The coater had issues with "gassing" when you heat the metal gas comes out and bubbles the finish had to do it three times and finished with a clear. The glass went back in fine but when I went to slide the side down onto the front... it was tight! Sanded the second side and squeezed the channel smaller and with some soap and prayers it slid on. The first side was a halfway on when she locked up tight and took lots of work to get her back together.

The rub rail went on easy just used screws seems solid. the rubber is still backordered.

dichdoc
03-20-2006, 10:20 PM
Here's a shot of the stainless backers for the teak. They come from the inside and are epoxied and glassed in. The teak brackets slide on and are nutted with lock washers and cap nuts. Waiting to install brackets until teak is finished (only on second coat).

erkoehler
03-20-2006, 10:22 PM
Are you going to put any decals on the side?

dichdoc
03-22-2006, 07:58 PM
I have a full set of decals that came with the boat, the only one I still need to get is the round ones I posted earlier. I was going to wait until after I patch some nicks and try the 303.

dichdoc
04-22-2006, 09:34 PM
Some requested pics of the dash refurb.

Cloaked
04-22-2006, 09:52 PM
Watching this thread with interest. Windshield looks very nice.

aerojt
04-22-2006, 10:03 PM
Looks like you are doing a great job. Keep posting the pics, this is really cool to watch take shape. Thanks!

-JT

sbuell
04-26-2006, 01:01 AM
Dash looks great! Is that the original aluminum pieces or did you make new? My '82 had the fake wood grain that a previous owner had painted black. I replaced the lower section with a new texture plastic part with brushed stainles plates for the switches. I want to do somthing to the upper pod section but really need a whole new plastic bezel as my has cracks and a section missing and somehow doesn't really fit the fibergalss part all that well.

Keep up the pictures it is great to see the progress.

BuoyChaser
04-27-2006, 02:57 PM
Some requested pics of the dash refurb.
sweet lookin' dash, but i miss the 'ole 80s skier picture!!! :worthy:

dichdoc
04-29-2006, 01:01 PM
I miss the original skier as well but he had made his last pass and had faded into nothingness. I "chronicled" the whole dash redo under jeweling dash 101 a few months back. They are the original pieces of alluminum polished and then jeweled. You can but panels allready jeweled from Eastwood Automotive (i've got around six hours into the turning) My plastic around the top pod was about the same as you describe cracked and warped. I epoxied the cracks and used Krylon fusion to paint it. when I put it back on some of the cracks returned. I am trying to schedule more time to work on her as things are warming up but the shop is busy with other peoples stuff and they pay with cash! I put new decals on her yesterday and will post some pics when they're all on. TB

Cloaked
04-29-2006, 01:46 PM
............and will post some pics when they're all on. TBI patiently await...... but could you hurry up a bit? :wavey:

dichdoc
05-07-2006, 11:24 PM
Well here's some pics for Sporty! Decals are on if only I could figure out whats missing.... Oh yeah its those big ones that go on the sides! The ones I had that came with the boat were 1/2" too short and the length was all wrong too. I also put the rub rail insert in today. Boiled water with a turkey frier, took the pot off and placed the insert in the water, it went from brittle hard plastic to soft plyable rubber in 2.5 seconds whole boat took around ten minutes, just pulled it out of the water as we went (two people).

dichdoc
05-07-2006, 11:29 PM
A close up of the powder coated teak brackets. Through bolted from inside held on with stainless cap nuts. They feel rock solid now and should be removable.

dichdoc
05-07-2006, 11:44 PM
A pic of the teak refurbed. I sanded ALOT it was very weathered. I then sealed with Star Brite Teak Sealer in the can pictured don't know if it is the "Right" stuff but I am pretty happy with the results. I think I have around 7 coats on it. I did it at work in the boiler room temps around 80 degrees. Went to 1500 grit paper and just to beat TMC no1 I finished with my baby's ***! (not really) I Also did the steps. a before pic...

dichdoc
05-07-2006, 11:46 PM
And the after...

BuoyChaser
05-08-2006, 12:06 AM
A pic of the teak refurbed. I sanded ALOT it was very weathered. I then sealed with Star Brite Teak Sealer in the can pictured don't know if it is the "Right" stuff but I am pretty happy with the results. I think I have around 7 coats on it. I did it at work in the boiler room temps around 80 degrees. Went to 1500 grit paper and just to beat TMC no1 I finished with my baby's ***! (not really) I Also did the steps. a before pic...
did you just sand, or did you use anytype of cleaner or brightener???looks great, nice work...

dichdoc
05-08-2006, 11:17 AM
Just sanding I started in the 80 to 120 range! I bought one of those cheapy black and decker mouse sanders to get in between the slats. I figured it was a good time to stop when I could see these shiny dots starting to show up! Yes they were the screws! I think it adds a touch of character!

Brn85ss
05-08-2006, 11:34 AM
Did you take any pics. of your patch work inside under the tank.Installing backing plates in my 85 right now,and I'm not sure how I'm going to patch the floor yet.Your 84 looks great better hurry good weather is on the way!Powder coated my brackets as well.Keep the pics. coming!

dichdoc
05-08-2006, 05:14 PM
I do have some pics I'll post them tomorrow when I'm home from work. I epoxied and glassed the backers in (sprayed threads with pam so epoxy won't stick). Waited for a full cure and sprayed in foam. Trimmed foam off flush and two layers of fiberglass and epoxy over the holes. My holes were pretty large as the previous owners had used two plastic access covers to seal their holes from their previous repair attempt, which would have been great except they glued them shut and the only way I could get them out was with a large pry bar. I also sealed the bolts as they came through the hull with the 3m Marine goo. The good weather is coming but I'm still looking at snow from my house and the lake needs about thirty feet of water before the ramps are even wet! (should be about two weeks) there are some good pics in post 17 of the cover and hole and sporty posted some pics of his glass work and it is top notch compared to mine. And a before shot..

oldschool84
05-12-2006, 09:31 AM
Love the boat man looks just like mine. I just added a 4 blade oj for this season so we shall see how that works???NICE WORK!!!

dichdoc
06-13-2006, 01:29 PM
Well I've finally got the boat put back together and can post some pics. Here is one of the exterior with the new rub rail, decals, powder coated windshield frame and gel buffing.

dichdoc
06-13-2006, 01:31 PM
And one of the interior with repaired floor, new carpet, jeweled dash, and repaired teak backers.

dichdoc
06-13-2006, 01:32 PM
So to wrap this up,
Things I've learned:
Use screws in your rubrail that will mount flush I have small bumps transfering through the vinyl.
My carpet seam on the drivers side where the side meets the floor looks alittle hackey to me should have done a better job cutting
Wish I would have wet sanded the whole hull before buffing the small spots where I repaired Gel coat look better then the rest.
When having windshield powder coated sand mating areas before beating with large hammer.


The damages:
Gel coat restoration kit Classic Motoring $109.95
Raka Epoxy and Fiberglass $167.00
West Marine rubrail and insert 363.95
radio shack switches and fuse holders $31.68
Eastwood Auto Jeweling kit $36.94
Overtons carpet and glue $156.79
Stellar signs Registration decals $23.00
ace hardware Misc. $60.92
CarQuest steering wheel $54.17
Bay Area Water Sports Seat slides and ying yang stickers $86.95
DIM Misc???? $160.00
Sign a Rama large side MC decals $35.00

Total $1286.35

So under $1500 and I'd say around fifty hours(???) the boat looks pretty good.
TB

6ballsisall
06-13-2006, 01:36 PM
Looking GREAT dich!! :headbang:

ntidsl
06-14-2006, 08:46 AM
Dude That Looks Sweet!!!! You Got A Great Boat With No Computers!!! Awesome, You Can Work On It, Tune It Up, Problem Solve, Etc...i'm Jealous!!!

Sweet!

Kevin 89MC
06-14-2006, 01:11 PM
Sweet! Nice work! :D

jraben8
06-14-2006, 01:16 PM
That's beautiful and brings back a lot of high school memories for me...

Cloaked
06-14-2006, 01:29 PM
Sweet....
Good job Doc...

That looks really nice

Now for some wheels...

I think RobertT has some....

oxberger
06-14-2006, 05:41 PM
Man, that is one SWEET job! It gives me hope for mine. Mine is the same year and colors. The oxidation is pretty bad on it. If I am correct the gel coat restore stuff you used was from Classic Motoring and cost 109.95. Do you have a link to their website? How long it take and how difficult was it?

BuoyChaser
06-14-2006, 11:35 PM
And one of the interior with repaired floor, new carpet, jeweled dash, and repaired teak backers.
nice job bringing her back...wow!!!looks as good as mine!!! :)

east tx skier
06-14-2006, 11:37 PM
Very nice work.

dichdoc
06-15-2006, 02:34 PM
Trailer is next years project (rims etc.). The gel coat kit worked very well comes with compound, wax, 3-4 different pads, cleaning supplies, micro fiber clothes, applicators, spray bottle, and DIRECTIONS. I bought a Makita 7 1/2" polisher and really love it but you could get by with a cheapy as long as you can adjust the speed you wouldn't want to have to feather the trigger and guess. The whole buffing took maybe three hours can wax the boat with it in twenty minutes. I would wet sand first next time. The web site: http://www.properautocare.com/gelcomakitfo1.html
they offer different kits for differnt buffers so look around. I used most of the can of compound on one boat. TB

oxberger
06-15-2006, 02:48 PM
Directions?! Cool! I'll check it out for sure. Thanks for the info. Again, great job!

tony35off
03-10-2010, 09:54 PM
hi can anyone tell me if the decal for the dash that has the solam times is avable?

dichdoc
03-19-2010, 10:14 PM
wow resurected this thread from the deep past. Actually wasn't a decal but screen printed on? If you had access to an original that was legible a good decal shop could get you close??

Monte
03-19-2010, 10:19 PM
Great work dichdoc!!

rsmith_5568
03-19-2010, 11:21 PM
Boat is looking great if you arelooking for some new wheels for the trailer there is a site that sells alum. mastercraft wheels i bought 2 for $60.00 each they are overstock wheels. the web site is www.trailertirewarehouse.com mine is an 86 look good with the new shoes on it

dichdoc
03-20-2010, 03:40 PM
Thanks for the tip on the wheels but this thread is four years old! Here is a link to the trailer refurb: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=14807
all new tires rims springs fenders all powdercoated. Hard to believe it's been that long I looked through the thread I don't own the same truck, I have a new shop, My kid can ski behind the boat now!

Nvrgvup
06-12-2010, 12:39 AM
This is a great thread.

I like the round access holes to get to the transom to thru bolt the swim platform. I was thinking about doing something like that when I need to perform this update. Do you think this was a good approach.

Were you able to install your plate with the studs attached through the access hole or did the floor need opened up more?

Thanks

dichdoc
06-13-2010, 01:18 AM
I'm honored this thread keeps coming back from the dead! I had to re read the thread to even come close to answering your question. I can't for the life of me remember if I put the round access hatches back in or not???? It's been 4 years and i have never taken the teak off and have had no problems with it loosening up. The bolts were welded solid and everything was foamed so future access doesn't really seem to be a concern for me, but if you were trying to avoid some fiberglass work it's probably a great option. I think the brackets dropped in through the holes with no problems the only thing I vaguely remember is the bottom bolts were very close to the "floor" and proved difficult to line up. To all that find this thread in the future feel free to PM me as my sporadic wondering through team talk might cause me to miss this thread. TB

keith3613
06-13-2010, 01:54 PM
I’m selling a dozen new 1984-1985 MasterCraft dash switches. These have the clear paddle that illuminate green then change color to red when toggled on. These are new from the original manufacturer. Price is $13.00 which includes the silver adjustment nut and the threaded black plastic dash ring. Additional dash rings are $.50 each. Ask for Keith at 972-998-1885 in Dallas Texas.

primcj5
06-13-2010, 02:18 PM
this thread has been a great help to me lately as i am just about to start restoring my blue and white 84 stars and stripes boat that i purchased last week from a bank repo...so far the exhaust manifolds and risers need replaced,exhaust rubber and thru the hull fittings and sherwood pump impeller,tank had 6 months of water/gas mix from the cap being off..boat has only 496 hours