View Full Version : platform treatment

02-10-2006, 01:04 PM
I have an 02 197 and the platform looks terrible, its grey and worn. Does anyone have suggestions on how to refinish to get that golden color back?

Does anyone know what the facotry finish is? I am sure its not a varnish, is it a teak oil?

Much thanks for any suggestions.

east tx skier
02-10-2006, 01:23 PM
Welcome. It's teak oil. Wash it at the car wash, sand it, apply oil, let it try in the sun. Repeat with finer grains of sandpaper and reapply oil. Let dry, repeat.

Do a search for teak and you'll find a wealth of info.

02-10-2006, 01:26 PM
Many a thread on the teak platforms. I found this one that has some good info.


02-10-2006, 01:56 PM
I have an 02 197 and the platform looks terrible, its grey and worn. Does anyone have suggestions on how to refinish to get that golden color back?

Does anyone know what the facotry finish is? I am sure its not a varnish, is it a teak oil?

Much thanks for any suggestions.
Welcome! you have come to the right place for teak tutorials! Get your search hat on and pop a beer because you have many pages to read.

02-10-2006, 02:17 PM
Eastie is right. Go to F.A.Q. and you'll find what you are looking for.
In the process right now. Power wash, then I used a 2 step teak cleaner from Aurora,
did it in the tub in about an hour. Let it dry for a couple days Oil it with Teak Oil 75% and 25% Paint thinner First 2 coats (Soaks in deeper). Wet sand with 400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit Sanpaper and Oil in between. As East Texas said let it dry in between each coat and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

east tx skier
02-10-2006, 02:22 PM
I should add that if you have any really specific questions about any of this, Harold and George are the guys to talk to.

02-10-2006, 05:00 PM
here's someting to think about also.....

follow the link within this post

02-10-2006, 05:11 PM
mine was pretty worn and black from carbon and elements....
it's got the open slats instead of closed.
I sanded, dremelled, sanded, routered, sanded until I was happy with it (could have used more) then I sealed it with teak oil.




it would appear it needs to sealed a couple times a season, but this next time I seal it, after it dries, I'm going to rub it down with 303 really well and see what happens....cuz I already know what happens otherwise:(

east tx skier
02-10-2006, 05:33 PM
Mid-season, I just touch up with oil. I stand on the thing with my ski, so scuffs are a given.

02-22-2006, 02:45 PM
Have a 98 PS190 my teak looks as good as new, and that is because of teak oil. Like Easy said sand oil and repeat. Once you get it back oil it weekly IMO. I have oiled mine weekly (durring the season)since new and it looks better today then it did when it was new. Have spent may years trying to keep teak looking good and teak oil is the only thing that works easy and provided long lasting results. Also remove the platform or cover it to protect it from the sun.

east tx skier
02-22-2006, 03:10 PM
I've uploaded a .pdf of the EMC newsletter containing TMCNo1's tried and true method for platform beautification in the FAQ section. Just put the first coat on mine last night after spending a while sanding, cleaning, and brightening on Monday. Looks good so far.

02-28-2006, 09:02 AM
I cut/paste the following from another website. Follow the directions closely... this works very well.People have asked me what my secret is for achieving great looking teakwood, so I thought I would share my secret with all my MC friends. Be careful with these household chemicals. This is for outside use. I hold no responsibility to injury or loss resulting from misuse . . . well, you know the rest. Like it or not, making your teak look "showroom new" takes a little bit of time and work. The re's no quick way of getting the mildew stains out of teakwood. I've used lots of products on the market, mostly chemical bleaching agents but none have worked as well as the formula I got from an "old-time house painting" friend of mine. The Formula: (secret #1) 1 cup of Tri-Sodium Phosphate substitute. (available at most hardware & paint stores) If you can get real TSP, it's the best but TSP substitute works Okay. 2 Cups HOT water. (not boiling but hot) 1/2 Gallon of Clorox (or equiv.) Bleach. A good Teak Oil. *see note Equipment Needed: Old clothes (you'll ruin them with bleach stains!) Eye protection (protect your eyes!) Heavy rubber gloves (these household chemicals are corrosive to skin) Common household bucket (holds about 2 gals.) Plastic "medium bristle" scrub brush Garden hose without a nozzle attached (for rinse) A soft 2" paint brush Restoring "Perfect Teak" (the hard part) Do the following OUTSIDE. Ventilation is A MUST! Pour 2 cups HOT water into a household bucket. SLOWLY mix 1 cup of TSP in the bucket. Be careful NOT to inhale the fumes. (These fumes can cause permanent lung damage!) After the mix is solvent (a few minutes) pour in 1/2 gallon of bleach. Mix while you pour. You now have the formula to clean your teak. This formula will not harm plastics but may discolor your nibral prop or rudder. Protect with a plastic bag if this is of concern. Protect your (and anyone around) eyes from splash. Apply the mix with the plastic scrub brush to your teakwood. The mix (cleaner) will penetrate your wood over a 10-minute period. After 10 minutes, apply another coat and scrub firmly to help loosen dirt and debris. Do NOT rinse. Teak that has been neglected for some time will take several applications (using 10-minute intervals) before the black stains disappear. It is not unusual for this process to take up to 1.5 hours. Warning: Do NOT soak your small teakwood pieces in the bucket of teak cleaner. After the cleaning process, rinse the teakwood THOROUGHLY with cold running water from your garden hose. Use the scrub brush and scrub during rinsing. The teak cleaning solution MUST be removed completely before drying. Drying time will take about a day. (Less if you have a good hot sunny day) The teakwood must be completely dry before applying any oils. Towel drying will speed up the process. Applying teak oil on wet teakwood will likely cause mildew. After drying, lightly sand the teakwood using 240-grit sandpaper. This will remove the "fur" that appears after cleaning. After light sanding, use a soft paintbrush to clean the dust out of the grooves of the teakwood before applying the oil. *Applying a good Teak Oil: (secret #2) Choose an oil that has little or no Silicones and no wax. Silicones give your teak a "slimy" feel and wax additives make your teak look "frosty" in a few weeks. These additives are intended to repel water but I find they spoil the natural look and feel of teak a lot sooner. I have 2 good recommendations for Teak Oil if you ask, but a good quality Golden Teak Oil will do the job. Stay away from blends that contain silicones or wax. Teak Oil is best applied to dry teakwood in the hot sun. Several coats (8 or more!) applied 30 minutes apart while the hot sun "bakes" the oil deep into the teakwood is recommended. Apply liberally using a 2" soft paintbrush stroking with the grain of the wood. After 8 or more coats, let the wood "dry" overnight. After "drying" period, wipe with a soft dry towel. Your award-winning teakwood should now look better than "showroom new".

02-28-2006, 11:22 AM
Per TMCNo1's instructions...

Time 15-18 hours

Dude, I need the mircrowave type process.

02-28-2006, 09:08 PM
Sorry TonyB, I dont have a quick fix for the teak. I tried em all and it never lasted. This process albiet long, lasts a long time with the occotional teak oil touch up.

02-28-2006, 09:15 PM
Per TMCNo1's instructions...

Time 15-18 hours

Dude, I need the mircrowave type process.

You can power wash the teak then apply the teak oil, but it won't last as long!