PDA

View Full Version : Lt-1 Hp


CHUCKER
01-26-2006, 06:10 PM
Hello there,
I just bought my 1st Mastercraft boat it is a 1993 25th ann, stars & stripes model with the LT-1 motor. Can somebody please tell me what the horsepower of this motor is?? I bought the boat late in the fall so I have not had a chance to use it yet, I'm looking forward to spring so I can try her out. Thanks in advance for your response.

Chucker

Cloaked
01-26-2006, 06:17 PM
Welcome aboard.

That motor is on a recall due to insufficient horsepower output. I think it ended up being 180HP at the crank. There is a fix for it but that comes later with more hours on the boat. It is a good engine but just a bit shy of the standard 350 HP. They should have told you...























Just kidding.. Welcome aboard.. :D It's a good engine.... :guitar:

Hoosier Bob
01-26-2006, 06:22 PM
You better post some pics! Awesome boat and I believe the HP was 310 for the LT1. :D
Hello there,
I just bought my 1st Mastercraft boat it is a 1993 25th ann, stars & stripes model with the LT-1 motor. Can somebody please tell me what the horsepower of this motor is?? I bought the boat late in the fall so I have not had a chance to use it yet, I'm looking forward to spring so I can try her out. Thanks in advance for your response.

Chucker

milkmania
01-26-2006, 06:25 PM
Hello there,
I just bought my 1st Mastercraft boat it is a 1993 25th ann, stars & stripes model with the LT-1 motor. Can somebody please tell me what the horsepower of this motor is?? I bought the boat late in the fall so I have not had a chance to use it yet, I'm looking forward to spring so I can try her out. Thanks in advance for your response.

Chucker

looks like your lucky day:cool:
looks like your boat may be in here for both a brochure and a manual...

http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/local_links.php?


welcome aboard also:wavey:

Foiler
01-26-2006, 06:25 PM
I have a 1993 25th anniversary 205 prostar with the LT-1.
I was told by indmar that it was 319hp.
I love the motor, great power and just the right amount of rumble to it without it being too loud.

CHUCKER
01-26-2006, 08:54 PM
Thanks for the info Foiler, I can't wait to get it on the water.
Chucker

SkySkiSpokane
01-26-2006, 09:44 PM
CHUCKER,
Welcome to the addiction. :steering: Congrats on your new purchase. That is one of the best power plants out there if you take care of it. Please remember that aluminum and anit-freeze don't go well with it so don't use anti-freeze when you winterize. That is the standard LT-1 bit of advice and you may see it a few more times. Have fun!! :toast:

Sodar
01-27-2006, 02:13 AM
CHUCKER,
Please remember that aluminum and anit-freeze don't go well with it so don't use anti-freeze when you winterize. That is the standard LT-1 bit of advice and you may see it a few more times. Have fun!! :toast:

Just curious, I have a closed cooling system on my LT-1 and I run 50/50 antifreeze and water. Should I pull the antifreeze out and just use straight water? I have never heard antifreeze having a negative effect on aluminum... after all, radiators are made of alumium right?

Hoosier Bob
01-27-2006, 09:53 AM
Some are safe for aluminum. Most antifreeze will state if it is ok for aluminum. I do not know of any current antifreeze that is not but I would still read the container. GM sells the 10 year antifreeze that is aluminum friendly for around $50 bucks I believe. VW is around $30. Shop around it is readily available. :D
Just curious, I have a closed cooling system on my LT-1 and I run 50/50 antifreeze and water. Should I pull the antifreeze out and just use straight water? I have never heard antifreeze having a negative effect on aluminum... after all, radiators are made of alumium right?

CHUCKER
01-27-2006, 10:23 AM
The guy that I bought the boat from said he always uses the pink RV antifreeze for winterizing would that be any less of a problem on the aluminum than the regular green antifreeze? I live in Wisconsin and have always used antifreeze for winterization in my boats. should I just drain the water out of the motor and thats it? I am afraid that I might end up with motor damage with some water still freezing inside. I don't usually winterize myself as I don't really know how to do it correctly and I don't want to end up with motor problems in the spring so I usually just take it in to be winterized, does anybody have instructions or pictures of the proper way to winterize the LT-1? I would really appreciate it. I live 2 hours away from the nearest Mastercraft dealer, would be nice to be able to learn how to winterize it myself. Sorry for such a long thread, thanks in advance for your reply's

Chucker

88 PS190
01-27-2006, 12:00 PM
The key is to ensure that the antifreeze is aluminum safe, I don't believe the RV to be. In a closed look system its just like having aluminum block or heads in a car, its fine so long as you use the right type. In an open loop, i'd check w/ indmar before continuing it.

The pink stuff is supposed to be safe for water, that is what's special about it.

CHUCKER
01-27-2006, 03:04 PM
Thanks for the heads up, I will definatly do some more research on this subject.

Chucker

rodltg2
01-27-2006, 03:39 PM
Hello there,
I just bought my 1st Mastercraft boat it is a 1993 25th ann, stars & stripes model with the LT-1 motor. Can somebody please tell me what the horsepower of this motor is?? I bought the boat late in the fall so I have not had a chance to use it yet, I'm looking forward to spring so I can try her out. Thanks in advance for your response.

Chucker


im jealous.

Foiler
01-27-2006, 04:23 PM
You can drain all the water out of the motor yourself, it's really easy.
Maybe someone has pictures showing the two block drains and two manifold drains. I just take the lower end of the hoses off to drain the water...some remove the hoses completely.

There are three screws holding the cover to the impeller on, this will have some water in it also since it's the lowest point. If it's like my 93 this can be found in front down low and the ski pylon will be in the way (only slightly)

I had my manifold plugs rust and had to tap the threads the next spring. Now I always coat the threads with a rust preventive.

The trans cooler/hoses should also be checked for water, you can find it by tracing the cooling hoses going to the transmission.

All of this only takes about 20mins

Oh, you'll want to run 89 octane in that motor.

east tx skier
01-27-2006, 04:39 PM
In 1993, the hp of the LT1 was, as Hoosier Bob said, 310 hp.

SkySkiSpokane
01-27-2006, 05:08 PM
You can drain all the water out of the motor yourself, it's really easy.
Maybe someone has pictures showing the two block drains and two manifold drains. I just take the lower end of the hoses off to drain the water...some remove the hoses completely.

There are three screws holding the cover to the impeller on, this will have some water in it also since it's the lowest point. If it's like my 93 this can be found in front down low and the ski pylon will be in the way (only slightly)

I had my manifold plugs rust and had to tap the threads the next spring. Now I always coat the threads with a rust preventive.

The trans cooler/hoses should also be checked for water, you can find it by tracing the cooling hoses going to the transmission.

All of this only takes about 20mins

Oh, you'll want to run 89 octane in that motor.
I do this every year, with the addition of blowing out my shower and heater. No anti-freeze and we get some cold temps here in Jan-Feb. I have had no problems. The higher octane is a must. Mine runs like $h1t with the cheap stuff.

Hoosier Bob
01-27-2006, 07:40 PM
Just a note LT 1 or 351 HO 285 bad gas is bad gas! If I run crap gas it is by necessity only. My 351 also runs like crap, knock knock, on the cheap stuff.
I do this every year, with the addition of blowing out my shower and heater. No anti-freeze and we get some cold temps here in Jan-Feb. I have had no problems. The higher octane is a must. Mine runs like $h1t with the cheap stuff.

tommcat
01-28-2006, 09:16 AM
CHUCKER,
Please remember that aluminum and anit-freeze don't go well with it so don't use anti-freeze when you winterize. That is the standard LT-1 bit of advice and you may see it a few more times. Have fun!! :toast:
what? are you talking about the eco friendly RV anti-freeze usually used on boats or automotive type?
almost any current automotive anti-freeze is 100% safe for aluminum.

SkySkiSpokane
01-28-2006, 03:51 PM
what? are you talking about the eco friendly RV anti-freeze usually used on boats or automotive type?
almost any current automotive anti-freeze is 100% safe for aluminum.
I guess it has something to do with the alloys in the LT-1. Indmar told me specifically "DO NOT" use anti-freeze of any type. That was five years ago and chemicals have changed since but I have never used it and we get below 0 temps here and I have never had a problem. I am not up on the technicalities of it all so please feel free to post all knowledge you may have on the subject. I am always curious.

east tx skier
01-28-2006, 05:01 PM
Just a note LT 1 or 351 HO 285 bad gas is bad gas! If I run crap gas it is by necessity only. My 351 also runs like crap, knock knock, on the cheap stuff.

Before I knew what was recommend, I ran 87 in my 351 HO. I don't remember it knocking, but I was having so many issues with the carb at that point, I probably wouldn't have noticed. As Engine Nut said, 89 is recommended because 87 will work. Let 89 sit for a bit too long, and you might end up with 87. Let 87 sit too long and you might end up with something less useable. At least that's how I remember it being explained.

/stabilizes his 89 octane.

bucky
01-28-2006, 05:12 PM
My '01 330 LTR recommends 91, and if you use 87, the only difference is you lose around 300 rpm on the top end. I can't here any knock or ping, but I can't hear much of anything over the stereo and wind and exhaust. Since detonation can cause serious mechanical damage, and the dime per gallon for premium is only a 4% increase in cost, I pay it.

east tx skier
01-28-2006, 05:15 PM
Yeah, I should've mentioned that I have extra incentive to spend the extra $3 per tank to run 89. I don't have one of those fancy computers that retards timing to prevent the predetonation like you 94 and up guys do. Of course, if performance suffers, so does fuel economy presumably. Sounds like you'd not be saving any $ going with the cheap stuff (or, if any, not a lot).

Holtrodj
01-28-2006, 05:22 PM
Don't mean to turn this into a gas thread, but too high of an octane level my cause premature detination and could also be a problem, correct? I have the '96 275hp and run 89. Its always worked well. I thought I remember being told 91 could be too high.

Hoosier Bob
01-28-2006, 05:42 PM
Your 01' will retard/advance timing to compensate. I can get my 93 to run ok on 89/87 by messing with the timing. No knock and no power! Good gas, no knock and tons of fun. I have gone electronic but no compensation for knock or bad gas. The 01' computer is a wonderous thing!
My '01 330 LTR recommends 91, and if you use 87, the only difference is you lose around 300 rpm on the top end. I can't here any knock or ping, but I can't hear much of anything over the stereo and wind and exhaust. Since detonation can cause serious mechanical damage, and the dime per gallon for premium is only a 4% increase in cost, I pay it.

Hoosier Bob
01-28-2006, 05:48 PM
There are some motor heads on this site that can give us a solid answer. I don't think we are reaching the compression or octane levels to worry about detonation assuming we are all still using "pump gas" and not racing fuel which reaches octane levels much higher. The question would probably be when is the octane high enough that the benefits are non existant. 89 may be perfect for most of us I may have my timing jacked to where 93 is working best as I use the twist, run and listen method of setting my timing (not recommended). :D Don't mean to turn this into a gas thread, but too high of an octane level my cause premature detination and could also be a problem, correct? I have the '96 275hp and run 89. Its always worked well. I thought I remember being told 91 could be too high.

tommcat
01-28-2006, 05:51 PM
I guess it has something to do with the alloys in the LT-1. Indmar told me specifically "DO NOT" use anti-freeze of any type. That was five years ago and chemicals have changed since but I have never used it and we get below 0 temps here and I have never had a problem. I am not up on the technicalities of it all so please feel free to post all knowledge you may have on the subject. I am always curious.
any current automotive antifreeze is aluminum safe, the pink RV stuff however is not. my owners manual even says not to use the RV stuff with aluminum.
indmar probably told you that just to cover their asses in case you used the wrong stuff and then tried to blame them for your motor damage.

tommcat
01-28-2006, 05:56 PM
Don't mean to turn this into a gas thread, but too high of an octane level my cause premature detination and could also be a problem, correct? I have the '96 275hp and run 89. Its always worked well. I thought I remember being told 91 could be too high.no. too LOW of an octane will cause detonation or pre-ignition, not the other way around. in general you should always use what the manufacture suggests for fuel rating. and that applies to cars also.
using super when it calls for regular will give you worse performance also, using to low will cause pinging which the computer will detect through the know sensor and then retard timing until the problem stops, which will cause a loss of HP.

Hoosier Bob
01-28-2006, 06:02 PM
Detonation explained: http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm
I was off as well although I believe I have always made the correct adjustments :D By the way the Horsepower is still 310 for the 93' LT1! The LT1 also has 10.5-1 compression! Read the article.
no. too LOW of an octane will cause detonation or pre-ignition, not the other way around. in general you should always use what the manufacture suggests for fuel rating. and that applies to cars also.
using super when it calls for regular will give you worse performance also, using to low will cause pinging which the computer will detect through the know sensor and then retard timing until the problem stops, which will cause a loss of HP.

Holtrodj
01-28-2006, 06:11 PM
Thanks for the education.

88 PS190
01-28-2006, 06:11 PM
Look for excess build up of carbon on your swimplatform or transom, if you are using too much octane you'll start seeing more build up.

Low octane has more power in an engine tuned to use it than higher octane and low octane has more (boom) but in high compression engines its just too unstable, and the compression sets it off like diesel

Hoosier Bob
01-28-2006, 06:15 PM
I think it is amazing what I learn on this site! Mostly what I thought I already knew! :D
Thanks for the education.

Datdude
01-28-2006, 06:41 PM
Hey Chucker,

Where in Wisconsin are you located? Sounds like a sweet boat....pictures would help!!!!!