View Full Version : Winterizing an LQ9

09-14-2004, 05:19 PM
Can anyone detail the winterization process of the LQ9 engine. Since it is a closed system, I'm assuming there is less involved. I am evaluating a previously owned boat with an LQ9 and curious about the process.

09-14-2004, 06:29 PM
Check the anti-freeze to make sure it won't freeze, stabilize the gas, run it so it warms up completely, fog it, shut it off, drain the raw water system, pull the impeller, spray anti-corrosion on it, pull the battery, pull the hull plugs and hang them from the steering wheel, hang some Damp-Rid(or equivalent) in it, wrap it up, pat it on the butt, winterize the trailer and put it to bed.

If there's anything I forgot, let me know. Otherwise, you can call a dealer and get the full list of what they normally do for one of these. They may let you have one of their check-lists (which they should be working from, anyway). Then you'll have one that you can laminate, so it doesn't get soaked.

09-15-2004, 09:10 AM

LQ9 specifics are outlined. If you need the PDF file let me know and I'll email you.

09-15-2004, 11:15 AM
Thanks guys. I assumed it was pretty much the same, but was hoping it might be easier.

Can you help me understand what portion of the "closed" system is actually "closed". Does fresh water only circulate in the heat exchange or is it used for other things like the transmission cooler, heater, etc. I seem to remember that the LQ9 cannot have a hot shower added - true?

I've not yet even seen the LQ9, so I apologize for my ignorance. I'm suppose to go look at the boat on Friday, and it would be helpful if I had some advance knowledge. Any other advantages or disadvantages re: the LQ9 would be appreciated. Mechanical related anyway - don't need the fuel consumption issues pointed out as I've heard plenty on that.

09-24-2004, 03:30 PM
One thing I noticed in the winterization procedure that was linked to above was the comment about fuel that has alcohol in it. They say if you have mixed fuel to drain the tank and replace with fuel without alcohol. All the gas that is sold where I live is mixed with 10% ethanol. What is the concern with having alcohol mixed fuel in your gas tank during storage? The only thing I can think of is the fact that alcohol absorbs water, but if your tank is full there should not be any condensation in your tank anyway.

Earlier this year when I bought my 2003 PS197 and had the fuel pump go out on it I was told by Mastercraft's customer service that it was due to stabil in the fuel. If that is true what are you supposed to use to treat your fuel?

09-24-2004, 07:34 PM
Andy- The reformulated gas starts to go bad in about three weeks, according to "the carb shop" I have taken marine and auto carbs to. In our climate, there are drastic temperature swings all year long and if the gas tank and gas are cold, any high humidity air that circulates through the tank from expansion/contraction will lose some of the moisture due to condensation during these tempreature inversions. This can then mix with the alcohol in the gas and "settle out". If this happens enough times, the alcohol/water mixture causes problems with the new in-tank filters, since it won't pass water through it. Water won't actually mix with gas, but it will break up into small beads and suspend if it's agitated enough. This mixture doesn't burn as well as clean gas and eventually, you end up with more water in the tank than you want.

I would take a fuel sample occasionally through the boating season, just to make sure there isn't much water in the tank.

As far as the Stabil, I had heard that MC stopped adding it before shipping boats, but haven't heard anything since. If you talk to them again about this, see if they'll e-mail it to you so you can post it here.

11-06-2004, 07:20 PM
The Service Manager for my closest MasterCraft dealer indicated that it is not necessary to FOG my LQ9 engine since it has EFI, is this true? What do you recommend? If I should fog the engine, where do I spray the fogging oil on an LQ9?
I have read a number of threads concerning pumping antifreeze through the raw water-cooling loop, is this good for an engine with aluminum parts? The LQ9 engine has a closed cooling loop with propylene glycol. Is it sufficient to check this fluid with an appropriate hygrometer and then simply drain the raw water-cooling loop? Any clarification you could provide would be much appreciated.