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JEREMY79
01-24-2006, 09:38 PM
How difficult is it to change the hubs on my trailer? I havnt ever done it and wondered.

6ballsisall
01-24-2006, 09:39 PM
How difficult is it to change the hubs on my trailer? I havnt ever done it and wondered.

Footin is "the natural" at that. He'd be the man to contact ;)

milkmania
01-24-2006, 09:42 PM
How difficult is it to change the hubs on my trailer? I havnt ever done it and wondered.

but, you might want to clarify your question....

are you wanting to change your hubs with other hubs

or

wanting to pull the hubs, pack the bearings, and replace same hubs?

JEREMY79
01-24-2006, 09:45 PM
Install the new oil bath hubs.

milkmania
01-24-2006, 09:45 PM
Install the new oil bath hubs.

ahhhh, I see:cool:

whitedog
01-24-2006, 10:27 PM
As long as your axel spindles are in good shape 1 hr max. If you can program a VCR you can change the hubs.

JEREMY79
01-24-2006, 10:30 PM
I dont have a VCR :confused:

whitedog
01-24-2006, 10:34 PM
Really quite simple. Take hubs and berrings off. clean out all old grease, change seals in hub, assemble in reverse order with new bearrings and races, put on new cap, fill with oil, replace rim and tire, tighten lug nuts and your good to go.

Footin
01-25-2006, 07:37 PM
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression the hubs themselves are different. New oil bath hubs are about 75 buck each with the bearings and seals. You should have a wear sleave on the spindle and it must be in good shape. The last time I rebuilt my hubs (everything new..hubs, bearings and seals) I also relaced the wear sleaves, this will prevent oil from leakin out the back.

whitedog
01-25-2006, 08:45 PM
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression the hubs themselves are different. New oil bath hubs are about 75 buck each with the bearings and seals. You should have a wear sleave on the spindle and it must be in good shape. The last time I rebuilt my hubs (everything new..hubs, bearings and seals) I also relaced the wear sleaves, this will prevent oil from leakin out the back.

Yep hubs are diff. Some have wear sleaves some don't. I have seen system with triple inner seal, requires almost new condition on spindle shaft or it will leak some.

Cloaked
01-25-2006, 09:57 PM
Foot and dAwg are on it. Get the parts and it's a fairly simple install. You can check for wear sleeves by pulling the current hub, easily enough. I'd consider this a standard DIY project.

JEREMY79
01-25-2006, 10:03 PM
will do this weekend....hopefully

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 03:03 PM
So how necessary is it to change hubs or bearings on your trailer? I always heard if they were properly greased on a regular basis you didnt need to replace them...... is that true? I have bearing buddies on mine and I check them often to make sure they are greased and use marine grade grease. so are you supposed to change the bearings and race periodically anyway? or only if your having problems? I know its not like a car where you can hear a bearing going bad, so what do you do?? :confused: :confused: do you just keep up with the grease? or do you have to replace bearings too? and if so, how often? or is that overkill?

and whats the advantage of the "oil bath" type hubs over the bearing buddy type??

This is a good topic, very interesting.

rick s.
01-27-2006, 03:37 PM
One difference would be that the trailer wheels would stay clean, my wheels get splattered with grease from the bearing buddy type hubs.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 04:38 PM
OK, I see. So is there any difference in bearing life or anything like that?

HOw bout the other questions, anybody got any input on those?? :confused:

Footin
01-27-2006, 04:45 PM
UMP, some people say you do not have do anything if you have bearing buddies and keep them full; however I and many others do not feel this is the case. I blew a bearing last year and I have have a friend also lose one towing down the highway. Both of us have recently greesed the buddies.

I pull my hubs apart, clean and inspect the bearing and install new seals every other year. Every four years I replace the bearings and seals no matter how they look. This is very cheap insurance.

This may be over kill, but if you have every scene your boat and trailer put onto a flatbed towtruck you may think twice.

Footin
01-27-2006, 04:48 PM
UMP, also to show you how serious I take my hubs, I now carry an extra complete hub for the trialer in my tow vehicle. It has bearing, seals and greese in it and I could install it on the side of the road in about 30 minutes and be rolling again.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 05:03 PM
Thanks Footin!!! :D SO where can you buy complete hubs and bearings/seals for these?? a regular auto parts store? do you need to know anything specific?

Thanks again!!

UMP

Footin
01-27-2006, 05:14 PM
For hubs, I got my new ones from Waymire Distribution in Indianapolis. They were about 50 dollars each. I also ordered my bearings and seals at the same time. My original hubs were made by Unique Functional Products (part number 1377 I think) UFP refered me the Waymire.

If you just want bearings and seals, I would go to NAPA, they have good counter people that can match up the old ones and they have decent quality parts.

(just my opinion)

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 05:28 PM
Thanks again Footin' I will look into it! :D

UMP

Footin
01-27-2006, 05:31 PM
UMP, does your trailer have breaks?

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 06:37 PM
Footin, my trailer has the type of brakes that are not eletrical. They have the "master cylinder" on the tongue of the trailer. I guess in theory when you apply your brakes on teh tow vehicle, the boat pushes the trailer forward and pushses the master cylinder to force fluid in the lines to the wheel cylinders. I dont know what the proper name is for those brakes, but thats the kind I have on it. Does that make a difference?? :)

UMP

Footin
01-27-2006, 07:25 PM
You have "surge" breaks and yes it make a difference on the hub.

I believe your hubs (drums) are the same as mine.

When you do decide to repack your bearings, if you need some more info on how to do it, go to championtrailers.com they have pretty good instructions. Or when you are ready to do it, call me, I can talk you through it.

For all this free help you now owe me a beer next time I come up to Frankfort! hehehe.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-27-2006, 10:40 PM
For all this free help you now owe me a beer next time I come up to Frankfort! hehehe.

I would be glad to buy you that beer Footin! :D Im a far skip from Frankfort though :o bout a 6 hour drive( I got about a 4 hour drive just to get to the bridge). :eek:

Thanks! :toast:

TMCNo1
01-28-2006, 12:31 PM
One difference would be that the trailer wheels would stay clean, my wheels get splattered with grease from the bearing buddy type hubs.
If your wheels are getting grease on them on the inside, you probably have a bad seal, if you have grease on the front side you can purchase Bearing Buddie Bras [caps] made if black or silver vinyl that cover the bearing buddy and contain the grease that would otherwise be slung out on the wheel. They can be purchased most anywhere marine supplies are sold for around $6 a pair or you can contact UNIQUE FUNCTIONAL PRODUCTS [www.ufpnet.com] or [1-800-854-1905] and they can help with the proper size for your model bearing buddy, as there are different sizes. Keeps water out and grease it, cheap additional insurance.

rasmithaz
01-28-2006, 04:07 PM
I had three bras fall off last summer and grease flew everywhere....huge mess. I'm getting ready to repack bearings soon. What type of marine grease is everybody using? Is the 'red' colored marine grease the new way to go? Do you clean up the bearings with a ton of WD40 and rags before you repack? Any opinions on tourquing down hub nut to 20lbs and backing it off 1/4 ? I have to get a lesson on electric brake adjustment too, if anybody has an internet information source. That's correct.....I'm running electric actuated brakes on a boat trailer. Bet you don't hear that often!

rodltg2
01-28-2006, 04:12 PM
blew out my bearings in the mojave desert on the way home from havasu. sucked.

Footin
01-28-2006, 04:29 PM
When I repack mine I use Brakeclean and some old rags, two can should be enough. When I torque them down I use a cresent wrench or channel locks and tighten the nut "tight" then spin the wheel a few times to set the bearings then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. With the wheel on the hub while it is jacked up, the wheel should spin freely (the brake shoes barely touching the drum my slow it alittle).
Now grab both sides of the tire and try to wiggle it back and forth, there should no slop in the bearings (it shouldn't move).

I now take the trailer for a 20 mile test ride, once I get back I jack the trailer up and check for slop in the bearings and retorque if needed.

Grease: go the autoparts store and ask for the best water proof wheel bearing grease they have, it may be 1 dollare more than the others but it is worth it. I go to NAPA and use "Morrey's" red grease, it's 5 buck a cartriage.

Footin
01-28-2006, 04:30 PM
To keep the bra's on the bearing buddies, use black electrical tape around the edge.

rasmithaz
01-28-2006, 07:55 PM
To keep the bra's on the bearing buddies, use black electrical tape around the edge.
I'm thinking that the black electrical tape is going to get melted to the point it is going to fall off because I get hot brakes going up and down major mountains in the hot *** desert I live in. I'm certainly going to give it a try, the worst thing that could happen is I'll have to clean up the buddy bearing and that beats cleaning up the trailer and boat when the bra falls off. Any brake adjustment input?

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-28-2006, 08:00 PM
blew out my bearings in the mojave desert on the way home from havasu. sucked.

Now that WOULD not be a good time! :eek:

Footin
01-28-2006, 08:01 PM
Sorry, never done electric brakes.

BrianS
01-29-2006, 11:58 AM
What is needed to replace standard hubs/bearings with oil-bath? The only kits I have seen are for trailers without brakes. I'd like to replace my grease packed Bearing Buddies with the oil-bath type, but I have surge drum brakes. Anyone know what kit to get and where?

Footin
01-29-2006, 12:23 PM
Here ya go:

http://www.championtrailers.com/TURBOLUBEOILFILLEDHUBS.htm

lakes Rick
01-29-2006, 06:21 PM
To keep the bra's on the bearing buddies, use black electrical tape around the edge.

My bra's let me push on the outside middle which forms a bit of vacuum keeping them on the hub.. Wonder if yours are worn out?? Mine are pretty tight and just a little bit of grease around the hub seems to help also.......

rasmithaz
01-30-2006, 01:35 PM
My bra's let me push on the outside middle which forms a bit of vacuum keeping them on the hub.. Wonder if yours are worn out?? Mine are pretty tight and just a little bit of grease around the hub seems to help also.......
I burp the air out and use a little grease around the hub as well. I think my brakes create so much heat that bra becomes softer and the air might be expanding and the grease certainly is getting not as dense. I really don't know exactly whats happening but I think I'm going to back off on the brake shoes adjustment a little bit just in case I'm dragging a little bit of shoe. The tires spin freely when the trailer is jacked up.

Upper Michigan Prostar190
01-30-2006, 02:29 PM
I burb the air out of mine too and have a little grease on it to kinda create a little vacuum on the hub to keep the bra on. Works pretty well. :)