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TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 10:59 AM
in nov. e-mc newsletter has article on how i do my platform. if anyone has any questions just yell at me and i'll respond. it does work. remember as with everything, you dont have to abuse it to use it. ok gotta go wash a car and its 42 degrees and after i get done, i gotta get my hands warm to play on the computer................later..................... ..nothing else even comes close, :woohoo: MASTERCRAFT

vegashomeexpert
01-07-2006, 11:30 AM
That was a great article! Talk about attention to detail.

Farmer Ted
01-07-2006, 11:31 AM
in nov. e-mc newsletter has article on how i do my platform. if anyone has any questions just yell at me and i'll respond. it does work. remember as with everything, you dont have to abuse it to use it. ok gotta go wash a car and its 42 degrees and after i get done, i gotta get my hands warm to play on the computer................later..................... ..nothing else even comes close, :woohoo: MASTERCRAFT


Anyone have a link to the Nov E-MC?

mbeach
01-07-2006, 12:00 PM
Anyone have a link to the Nov E-MC?
farmer -- try this link. may not paste as an url link, so you may need to cut and paste to your browser.

http://207.170.215.108/eMarketing/Campaign/TemplateBlankRun.aspx?PageId=81546a8d-fd78-4bea-9d59-ffa7f47788ec&OrgId=1&ConId=5919

just tested out and does not post as an url link, but cutting and pasting to browser does work. good luck.

well dumb me, looks like it did post corrrectly! so much for previeweing before posting.

ski_king
01-07-2006, 12:04 PM
Hey TMCNo 1, you need to get some pictures of your sweet boat posted.
http://207.170.215.108/eMarketing/organization/mc/Images/Harold-Page-1.jpg
http://207.170.215.108/eMarketing/organization/mc/Images/Harold-Page-2.jpg
http://207.170.215.108/eMarketing/organization/mc/Images/Harold-Page-3.jpg

Cloaked
01-07-2006, 12:07 PM
If one wants to keep this on their HD, print it to PDF and save. Done deal.

Farmer Ted
01-07-2006, 12:18 PM
farmer -- try this link. may not paste as an url link, so you may need to cut and paste to your browser.

http://207.170.215.108/eMarketing/Campaign/TemplateBlankRun.aspx?PageId=81546a8d-fd78-4bea-9d59-ffa7f47788ec&OrgId=1&ConId=5919

just tested out and does not post as an url link, but cutting and pasting to browser does work. good luck.

well dumb me, looks like it did post corrrectly! so much for previeweing before posting.

Thank your Sir!

Do we still have a coach?

mbeach
01-07-2006, 12:52 PM
Thank your Sir!

to quote arnold, no problema

Do we still have a coach?

assume you mean kirk rather than bobby. (i am a seminole in hawkeye country but have recently purchased property on a beautiful lake near choke, gainesville, fl). as for kirk, nfl is knocking at his door and this would be the prime time for him (not us) to make his move. otherwise, time may pass him by. his son, brian, was starting center this year and graduates. he has a son in my son's grade (jr) in hs. think he also has an older daughter. bottom line is that he can write his own ticket at this point, but who knows. if his desire is to be a head coach in the nfl, then now is the time. as for bobby, jopa must retire first or win another national championship (at least 2 yrs out from what i've seen). fsu will be contenders again, but they need to plug some serious holes in their program.

Kell
01-07-2006, 01:02 PM
If one wants to keep this on their HD, print it to PDF and save. Done deal.
Sporty, how do you save it to a pdf? Didn't see any way to do this on the link nor by right clicking. Thanks.

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 01:52 PM
god, thats a ugly guy in the pix, but my wife is quite the chick, she helps me do all this stuff and is my q.c. inspector, no 1 advisor, navigator, boat loader and unloader for 35 yrs. and she really gets up on the wheel. had this rig for half our married life, and sometimes ya just got to take time out to work on the boat after dark, remember mama always comes first, everything else is mastercraft

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 01:59 PM
concerning the platform finishing, just ask george in tx or kas in conn. they followed my directions and they know it works. patience is the key plus some really cold off season when you dont have anything to do...........later

JohnnyB
01-07-2006, 02:29 PM
MBeach, thanks for the link.

TMCNo1, I agree with the other posters. You need to get some pics of that boat posted....it is beautiful.

Regarding the care of teak platforms, I followed a similar process of sanding and then brushing on Starbrite....I did 200 grit and then 400 grit. I stopped there because it was getting really smooth and pretty but also seemed like it would be slippery......

This proved to be true as after being a little wobbly legged after an endurance barefoot run, I slipped getting in and bashed my toes on the transom :eek:

Maybe I did something wrong that made it banana slick :banana: but use caution as sanding and coating them with sealer makes them look fantastic but may leave them a bit slippery.

My :twocents:

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 03:39 PM
i have been sanding mine now for about 10 yrs+ with 2000 wet-r-dry and only applying starbrite sealer/preserver teak oil by hand, just like applying lotion to the body in very thin coats. just apply enough to gloss the sanding marks, sand and add a couple coats. once you have the gloss and finish you are satisfied with and it is really dry, at least 4 hrs in 80 deg heat in sun or a day or two inside in the heat, you will know if it's dry! rub down good with a real wet towel in the sun and apply a real good coat of meguiers #16 paste wax and buff by hand and just before boat judging im add a good coat of pledge furniture polish...........why do surfers wax the top of their boards where they stand, so they won't slip! we have never put our skis on on the platform, but sit on the platform and put skis on, it all works the same, but the platform stays untarnished. i now only refurbish it evety 2 or 3 years or if i get bored. yes, i do get bored often

Cloaked
01-07-2006, 03:45 PM
i have been sanding mine now for about 10 yrs+ ..........we have never put our skis on on the platform, ....... i do get bored oftenThat is not right... :D

The very beauty in a platform is the fact that I can indeed don a ski standing upright and step right into the water with ease. I use and abuse my platform but there again, that's the beauty of it.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... :steering: :banana:

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 03:56 PM
if you are using anything else but "starbrite sealer/preserver, you are skiing in the wrong cove, you might as well be using armor-all, trans fluid or motor oil. the finish will not wash off if it is dry, and leave a oil slick in the water as most oils do. it is the only one that drys like a shellac or a varnish and can be sanded. this stuff gets so hard that i cant even remove the drips and runs on the teak oil bottle with lacquer thinner, its that tough. after a couple seasons use before i refurbish, i wash with soap and water and rub down good with mineral spirits paint thinner to remove the choke smoke and fish guts.

G-man
01-07-2006, 06:40 PM
One small clarification on the Starbrite. Believe it or not you want the Starbrite oil in the white container not the more expensive "Golden Oil"

Sand off, Oil on, Dry, Oil on, Dry, Sand off, Oil on, Dry, Oil on,Dry,.... it must be winter.

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 07:29 PM
george knows, he's one of my students, the regular oil in the white bottle is right, cause the more expensive premium will dry a little semi-gloss instead of glossy, in other words hazy and anal people can't have that..........later

Leroy
01-07-2006, 08:01 PM
Here is the PDF.

SkiDog
01-07-2006, 09:04 PM
Hey guys, I've known Harold a LONG time, and what he says is the gospel! However what hes not telling you is that his platform has gone from its original thickness of 1 1/2'' to a mere 3/8'' from all those sandings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :toast:

TMCNo1
01-07-2006, 09:31 PM
yea, and now i don't need flappers on my pipes, i just let the platform act as flappers, just put hinges on my platform brackets.

Cloaked
01-07-2006, 10:08 PM
Sporty, how do you save it to a pdf? Didn't see any way to do this on the link nor by right clicking. Thanks.You need Adobe Reader with write capability which then becomes a printer option. Just click print, point to the Adobe PDF printer, save as..... done deal.

Adobe reader (only) will not accommodate this method.

I can assist with read / write through a PM if necessary... :firejump:

Leroy
01-08-2006, 12:57 AM
Harold you should really take a break from that 10 years of sanding and try skiing. Just put on a ski on while standing on that platform......that's what it's for!


Sporty knows!

TMCNo1
01-08-2006, 08:58 AM
leroy, us oldfolks gotta give up skiing sometime, besides i like the feel of all that power under my right hand, and just enjoy driving. kinda like here at the house, me and my bride have moved the mirror from above the bed to over the kitchen table, at our age you just gotta adapt. what ya want me to do now? start sanding and sealing the kitchen table.

Leroy
01-08-2006, 09:22 AM
I hear you, my bones don't work as well as they once did either!


We all do what we want - as much as we can - as long as we can! :toast:

What is your preference in platforms, slats or solid?

TMCNo1
01-08-2006, 10:10 AM
leroy, solid are much better looking but keeping them up would be a trick, but they hold down the exhaust sound and the exhaust flappers dont get hung up in the slats. the stated ones are still a trick to maintain cause you gotta get between the stats to finish. imagine keeping up a cc platform, i thought they put astro tuff on football fields. the slated one is the one i got and i'll just have to deal with it. several owners have asked me to finish their solid ones and i just cant do it. then i'd have to maintain it too! gave them my instructions and they just cant start cause they'd rather sit around and pick their noses while the boat beats up the pier or hangs in the boat house collecting dust and wasp nests.

Todd '04_PS197
01-08-2006, 11:08 PM
If anyone is looking for another option, I used "TeakGuard" on my teak this year. It's worked for about 6 months of weekly use and it still looks good.

Teakguard is a water based polymer resin product that contains no oil, urethane, silicon, varnish, shellac, or sealers of any kind. It's allows the teak to breathe allowing moisture to escape while at the same time sealing in the woods' natural oils protecting them from oxidization and seals out mold spores. TeakGuard's also not suppose to support mold or mildew growth like other teak oils do.

I bought the kit and used the bronze pad to apply the cleaner to clean the my teak. I then applied 2 coats to it. I probably spent 3 - 4 hours on it tops. By the way, the cleaner uses no alkaline or caustic chemicals. Itís biodegradable, pH neutral, and environmentally friendly.

Here's the link if anyone's interested. I'm not sure if it's available anywhere else.

http://www.allguardproducts.com/

alp
01-16-2006, 04:18 PM
The guys who make them for MC and Malibu recommend a thorough wash and dry followed by a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits applied with a rag. Let dry and apply second coat. Works pretty well. I might try rubbing with steel wool between coats this year.

jbfootin
01-17-2006, 12:40 PM
Do any of you do anything to seal the bottom of your platform. Most that I see just worry about the top, since this is what everyone sees, but the bottom is what is soaking in the water and needs protection. TMC01, do you remove the plateform from the boat to do this work or do you do it right on the boat. Just wondering. :confused:

Thanks

bigmac
01-17-2006, 12:46 PM
If anyone is looking for another option, I used "TeakGuard" on my teak this year. It's worked for about 6 months of weekly use and it still looks good.

Teakguard is a water based polymer resin product that contains no oil, urethane, silicon, varnish, shellac, or sealers of any kind. It's allows the teak to breathe allowing moisture to escape while at the same time sealing in the woods' natural oils protecting them from oxidization and seals out mold spores. TeakGuard's also not suppose to support mold or mildew growth like other teak oils do.

I bought the kit and used the bronze pad to apply the cleaner to clean the my teak. I then applied 2 coats to it. I probably spent 3 - 4 hours on it tops. By the way, the cleaner uses no alkaline or caustic chemicals. Itís biodegradable, pH neutral, and environmentally friendly.

Here's the link if anyone's interested. I'm not sure if it's available anywhere else.

http://www.allguardproducts.com/

IIRC, Here on TMC, Teakguard got thumbs up for appearance right after application and a very substantial thumbs down for longevity and resistance to scuffs and scratches. Doing a TMC search on "Teakguard" might be prudent for anyone thinking about refinishing their swim platform, just to get a rounded set of opinions.

jbfootin
01-26-2006, 11:38 AM
Can someone post a picture of the Starbrite sealer container. I stopped at the local marine store and they had Starbrite products but non of them were teak sealer. They had brightener, cleaner and oil. Do you ever use the cleaner or brightener or just leave the sanding do that?

TMCNo1
01-26-2006, 04:58 PM
Can someone post a picture of the Starbrite sealer container. I stopped at the local marine store and they had Starbrite products but non of them were teak sealer. They had brightener, cleaner and oil. Do you ever use the cleaner or brightener or just leave the sanding do that?
Don't have the ability to send pics yet, but it is the white container with the pic of a boat with platform half sealed and half not sealed, it is the, step 3 longest lasting protection, penetrating sealer-preserver that comes in the 3 step kit if you buy the kit. Overtons carries it in the 32oz. container/ $10.99 or so, and they also carry it in the premiun but it will dry somewhat hazy. Someone asked about sealing the underside, yes about every 3 years or so just to keep it all sealed. Save your money and just buy the oil, clean platform initially with soap and water, the use a brush and TILEX to brighten and remove exhaust/ choke smoke and kill mold/ mildew before you start sanding prior to putting on sealer. I remove platform during the winter by removing the screws, therefore no brackets are in the way.

BIGBADBLUE
01-26-2006, 05:20 PM
This sounds good and I am going to try it. Teakguard was a bust for me ... I hated it. It look good when it was finished, although the color is a little wierd. When you start to use the boat I hated the platform. It chip and cracks and then geting the stuff off to go back to oil was a pain.

TMCNo1
01-26-2006, 06:56 PM
To whoever pm'd me a few minutes ago, i'm sorry but i had a brainf--t, read your message, confirmed, and deleted it without seeing who it was. PM me again with phone no. and i'll call you. My nickle, again sorry!

mitch
01-26-2006, 08:39 PM
god, thats a ugly guy in the pix, but my wife is quite the chick, she helps me do all this stuff and is my q.c. inspector, no 1 advisor, navigator, boat loader and unloader for 35 yrs. and she really gets up on the wheel. had this rig for half our married life, and sometimes ya just got to take time out to work on the boat after dark, remember mama always comes first, everything else is mastercraft

That is an ugly guy, who is that? :D

Nice looking boat!

jbfootin
01-26-2006, 08:48 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll have to go back and see if they have that. I plan on getting to the platform next month. right now I am painting a nursery for a new daughter that should be here any day. (No thread jack intended) I was just at the marine store and was looking to get the sealer ahead of time.

1984StarsandStripes
01-26-2006, 09:48 PM
Here is the front of the bottle. Hope it helps!! :)

TMCNo1
01-27-2006, 08:52 AM
Here is the front of the bottle. Hope it helps!! :)
That's it, right on the money, most all marine supply houses, West Marine, etc., and Ski catalogues carry it, Overton's, Bart's, Ski Limited, etc., most always in their big yearly master catalogue.......Later

1984StarsandStripes
01-30-2006, 02:17 PM
Powerwashed it at the .25 car wash and then started with my first sanding and coat of teak oil last night. Already looking great! Used 100 grit on my random orbital and then hand standed the crevices. I am going to wither 150 or 220 grit tonight. I am aiming for 4 coats of oil.

G-man
01-30-2006, 02:30 PM
84 S+S

I suggest you lose the orbital sander and use a palm sander. You have a good start and will have a better finish in the end with a palm sander.

TMCNo1
01-30-2006, 02:41 PM
Powerwashed it at the .25 car wash and then started with my first sanding and coat of teak oil last night. Already looking great! Used 100 grit on my random orbital and then hand standed the crevices. I am going to wither 150 or 220 grit tonight. I am aiming for 4 coats of oil.


Be sure to let it dry GOOD between sandings, it may take a couple days, if when you start sanding and the oil tends to really clog up the sandpaper when you first start, it's not dry enough. It won't take long for you to learn, but BE PATIENT! DO NOT use steel wool to do any sanding, as it will stick to the oil if it's not dry and will leave pieces of wool in the finish that you won't get out, then the wool rusts and well, you can guess what i did once, and only once. Once you get this stuff really dry you can see how far you can go with finer sandpaper and more oil and that is up to you...........Sounds great!......later

TMCNo1
01-30-2006, 03:10 PM
84 S+S

I suggest you lose the orbital sander and use a palm sander. You have a good start and will have a better finish in the end with a palm sander.
You go George!, cause you be one of my most accomplished students! Can't wait till he really gets started and just can't get it slick enough and gets into the 2000 micro fine wet/dry and it's still not slick enough!, RIGHT George?

ski_king
01-30-2006, 03:15 PM
Have any good hints how to clean the platform up between the slats?

TMCNo1
01-30-2006, 03:36 PM
Have any good hints how to clean the platform up between the slats?
You talking about the edges where the teak sits against the other slats or the big long openings?, either way, just use plenty tilex or clorox or teak cleaner and a good stiff brush. Then when applying the first few coats, after it's dried good and been sanded dry front and backside use a good stiff paint brush to get oil in the cracks and on the edge of the openings. Any excess just wipe off with your hand. You'll catch on!

ski_king
01-30-2006, 03:48 PM
You talking about the edges where the teak sits against the other slats or the big long openings?, either way, just use plenty tilex or clorox or teak cleaner and a good stiff brush.......
The big long openings.

I have used plenty of tilex, clorox and teak cleaner, along with a good brush and lots and lots of elbow grease but still have a few spots darker than what I want, mainly the end of the boards where the end grain is exposed.

Last spring I put a lot of work into my platform simular to what has been suggested in this thread. Many coats with sanding between each coat. Only to see it chip when it is used as designed to put your ski on.

I am ready to go back to good old Tip Top Teak and just put on a fresh coat or 2 everyweek during the season. It dosnt have the great glossy finish that StarBrite gives you , but at least it dosent chip.

TMCNo1
01-30-2006, 06:14 PM
The big long openings.

I have used plenty of tilex, clorox and teak cleaner, along with a good brush and lots and lots of elbow grease but still have a few spots darker than what I want, mainly the end of the boards where the end grain is exposed.

Last spring I put a lot of work into my platform simular to what has been suggested in this thread. Many coats with sanding between each coat. Only to see it chip when it is used as designed to put your ski on.

I am ready to go back to good old Tip Top Teak and just put on a fresh coat or 2 everyweek during the season. It dosnt have the great glossy finish that StarBrite gives you , but at least it dosent chip.
I have found that the end grain in the teak will be a little darker than other parts, plus teak has a feature that some other woods don't have and that there is some light and dark spots due to a concentration of natural oils in the wood make places darker and harder, kind of like pine, the dark pine knots are used for kindling to start fires because of the additional oil content. This teak oil probably was never intended to be used as a wood finish for show purposes, it just happened to work out that way. I was taught this procedure by someone who was a too serious competitor at boat owner reunions who wanted a platform that was way ahead of what everyone else had. Worked for him so i tried it and it was 17 years ago i started working on mine and today keep it up. He finally could not get his slick enough so he spent $600+ to have it sealed and coated with over 36 coats of automotive clear urethane, yet when he chipped it he had to totally redo it over @ $600 each time, yet i have never had to redo mine, I can repair mine, yet he couldn't. We do stand, sit and walk on it with clean shoes but don't put on our skis on it. Different strokes for different folks!

SkiDog
01-30-2006, 06:25 PM
Harold was that guy you learned from named Dicker or something like that? Also, check your PM

roddydog
01-30-2006, 07:31 PM
Just 1 more quick clarification (I think I know the answer, but...........) when sanding in between coats with the wet-or dry sand-paper you do sand it dry, correct?
You don't soak it down while sanding, let it dry, recoat etc. Just makin' sure.

TMCNo1
01-30-2006, 08:05 PM
Just 1 more quick clarification (I think I know the answer, but...........) when sanding in between coats with the wet-or dry sand-paper you do sand it dry, correct?
You don't soak it down while sanding, let it dry, recoat etc. Just makin' sure.
After you start building up finish, you ALWAYS want to sand WET, put a tiny shot of dish soap in a big mcdonalds type cup with water and makes suds and it makes sanding so much easier and the liquid floats away the sandings and won't be as likley to clog up sandpaper, just like sanding a car finish, then rinse as you go with clean water from a hose or such. Then dry with a soft towel and be sure to go over the platform with a tack rag before applying each coat of oil....later

roddydog
01-30-2006, 09:19 PM
Much obliged. Turns out my answer would've been wrong. Makes sense to use just a bit of water to wash away the dust, let 'er dry and go to it.
Thanks again

ski_king
02-05-2006, 02:32 PM
Here is a photo of my platform from last spring. I used the Starbrite (white bottle) and sanded between each of the 6 coats.

Too bad it didn't look this good after I used it a few times, but I did try to touch it up every other week.

ski_king
02-05-2006, 02:34 PM
Before you ask, no, I did not use the 303 on the platform. Just on the upolstry and also on the gelcoat before waxing.

TMCNo1
02-05-2006, 03:20 PM
SKI KING, the first MasterCraft i ever saw was at Cypress Gardens in March of 1984 and it was the same as your yellow and gold metalflake boat. That is absolutely georgeous and has always been my favorite combo. Gives me a semi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BuoyChaser
04-13-2006, 02:31 PM
Here is a photo of my platform from last spring. I used the Starbrite (white bottle) and sanded between each of the 6 coats.

Too bad it didn't look this good after I used it a few times, but I did try to touch it up every other week.

what a nice lookin' color, great tips here!!!