PDA

View Full Version : Engine cover slides back on engine


dwe
09-11-2004, 03:37 AM
The edges of the honey comb platform on my '95 ps190 are deteriorating where the screws go through. So, the platform slides back, pulling the engine cover with it; until the cover stops on the raw water pump. Has anyone else had this? The rest of the platform seems ok, except for the edges where the screws go through. I am thinking of (1) adding 2 more black plastic stops just back of the 2 that keep the engine cover from going forward, or (2)moving the 2 stainless screw back 6 inches from where they are, to where the honey comb is in better shape. The problem w/ 1 is that that honey comb isn't in the best of shape on the rearward edge, and 2 is that the screws won't be tucked away from sight anymore.

thanks!
David

jimmer2880
09-13-2004, 07:34 AM
I am thinking of (1) adding 2 more black plastic stops just back of the 2 that keep the engine cover from going forward, or (2)moving the 2 stainless screw back 6 inches from where they are, to where the honey comb is in better shape.
The 2 that keep the engine cover from going forward (toward the bow?) are actually there to keep it from moving back. I'd say that your box is on the wrong side of the plastic stops. That's the way it is on my '95 190 anyway.

Ben
09-13-2004, 07:55 AM
Our floor centerpiece has a similar problem. It was deteriorated really bad where the 2 rear hinges for the engnie box mount to the floor. I let it go a bit too long (too many projects) and the front center of the floor started to sag a bit, it appears once the honeycomb starts to go, you're in trouble. My temp fix was to rotate it front to back, redrill the holes and add a 6x18" (or something like that) thin aluminum plate on the underside. Now the "soft spot" is under the rear seat, or almost all the way under the fuel tank cover piece (when the seat is out). Looking back, I wish I would have go to it sooner, because you can still hit the soft spot w/the seat out. Winter projects...

Unfortunately honeycomb aluminum isn't the easiest / cheapest thing to find.... Not sure if this is your problem too, but good luck. The only downside to rotating the piece is the carpet color was a bit off due to fading. Other than that, with the seat in, we are as good as new for now...

John B
09-13-2004, 09:03 AM
dwe,
Both of the MasterCraft I have had, have had that problem.
That honeycomb aluminum is crap, change it out with 1 in. marine plywood.
That is what I did for my 94 ProStar.
I have not done it yet to my 96.
I just move the screws,but now where the old were I have holes in the carpet,and the aluminum is mushy. :(

OhioProstar
09-13-2004, 11:21 AM
The black tabs should keep it from sliding back into the engine. Unscrew the four screws in the back pull the housing forward and drive the screws into new spots on the stringers.

dwe
09-14-2004, 12:27 AM
Good to know about the stops; I would have never known. I think I may try turning the shaft cover panel around, hoping the other end is in better shape. Its not to the point where it sags, but the screws don't hold well, and it slides. The little triangle piece that the stops attach to is soft if you step on it, so some plywood may be in its future.

When you guys do the packing, do you get to it by removing the engine cover hinge bolts, remove it, and pull up the panel?

Thanks!
David

Ben
09-14-2004, 07:59 AM
I usually try to pull the cover and floor piece together, so I don't have to mess with the hinge bolts all the time. That is a 2 man job though, 3 if you have it available.

jimmer2880
09-14-2004, 08:08 AM
Packing? I don't. The first year I owned the boat I bought the dripless PSS system from SkiDim. Great investment. Haven't had the floor out since.

OhioProstar
09-14-2004, 03:07 PM
Ben is right about moving the engine cover and flooring in one piece. It took me quite a bit of time to take the pieces apart at the hinge rather than lifting the whole thing out at once. You can put it on some saw horses and switch the flooring around then.