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lentiman
06-09-2014, 01:53 PM
So this is the culmination of my search for extra ballast on my 2012 X2. After much good input from Stephan, BCD, and KahunaCraft I decided to go the additional pump/bag route. This thread will be a how-to for other 2012 X2 owners.

So, why the additional pump/bag route? 2012 was the black sheep year for Mastercraft. No harware based ballast timers (so no re-programming), non-user editable timers in the software managed pump system, and pumps fully tied into the onboard system management. You can fool the system with relays (BCD did this) or if you have all of the programming tools you can edit the system settings (Stephan did this), but a dealer reset ruins all of this work. Based on this and how my boat was configured (no BIG, gauges only with GDIG) going the additional pump/bag route seemed to make the most sense. Even better, I was able to make the system look completely stock.

In addition to the usual bags (Fly High X2 bags in back and 2x Sumo Seat Sacs in front), pumps (Jabsco Ballast puppies), hose (1"), fittings, wire (16 gauge at switches and 12 gauge at pumps), etc. you'll need the following items to do this job well.

Special Materials:

Mastercraft relay and wiring harness
http://greatlakesskipper.com/mastercraft-8704102-black-boat-ballast-relay-control-panel

Mastercraft 2012/2013 stock switches
starboard: part 502298
center: part 502299
port: part 502297

2 Port through hull (same as stock used in 2012 boats): part 300273

Deutsch connectors
1x 6 pin
3x 2 pin

Heat Shrink Solder Sleeve Crimpless Butt Connectors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEFOCRU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:05 PM
First thing you can do is pop out the switch panel. I had two banks and a power tower switch, but no power tower. So I disconnected the tower switch and pulled all three out. You'll need an allen wrench for the very long screws here.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:10 PM
Open the breaker panel (under steering wheel) and figure out with fuse you wan to use to power the switches. I made a new label and placed it over the tower lift fuse (lower right). You'll need to make a 4' x 3 wire (16 gauge) wiring harness for this. Ring connectors on one end and female connectors on the other end of each wire. I put all the wires together in a 1/4" wire loom but I'd get 1/2" wire loom if I did it again. Run the wires through the switch panel you already pulled to the back side of the fuse/buss panel. Remove the ring connector for the tower lift and put all three ring connectors for the switches under the same screw. Note: you'll need a new screw for this method that is twice as long as the existing screw. I ended up getting a new screw to accommodate the 3 ring terminals. Another way to do this would be to get a couple scotchlock connectors and join the three +12v wires into one, then only using one ring terminal connector. The female ends go on the center contact for each switch. It doesn't matter which order they're connected in.

Now make a 4' x 6 wire harness (16 gauge) wiring harness to go from the switches to the relay box. You will use the 6 pin deutsch connector on one end (relay box end) and female connectors on the other (switch panel end).

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:11 PM
Attaching the relay panel:
I couldn't find anything handy to attach the relay panel to and I didn't want to place it behind the drivers seat (possible future sub placement). So I got industrial strength velcro (hook side) and attached it to the back of the relay box and then attached it to the carpeting up under cup holders. This position is out of the way from the cooler, which is good. It can get leaked on by the cup holders but the relays are waterproof so it should be okay.

Next, fish the wiring harness you made from the switch panel to the relay box. I had to remove a divider to do this but it was easy to replace (1 screw). Connect your 6-pin harness.

Now fish the relay power harness and pump connector harness through into the engine and transmission compartments. You will be able to see the back side of the Perko switch connections. Connect the power ring conenctor to the screw at 9 o'clock. Just to the stern of this is a negative power block. Connect the negative terminal to one of these. I zip tied these harnesses to the vent fitting from my starboard hard tank to prevent them from falling into the cooler space.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:12 PM
Choose where to mount your pumps

This took me awhile to make final decisions but I'm happy with my locations. First remove the HDPE side panels on each side of the engine. They will get in the way. There is another divider to the stern of these dividers and they are held in place with two screws (one on top and one on the bottom). I removed each of these HDPE stern dividers and mounted a pump towards the top of each. After attaching each pump to it's panel I was able to replace the panel with the pump attached. Each pump just clears the engine exhaust. This placement will help with plumbing later on.

I mounted the pump for the forward bags on the starboard side HDPE panel between the transmission and the engine. I didn't try to remove this panel, as access to it was good enough that I was able to get my drill in for each hole without much effort. This is close to the location of the existing forward hard tank pump.

Next you can add wire for each pump to go to the harness leads from the relay box. I used the heat shrink solder connectors. Seemed like a good idea. Attach the 2-pin deutsch connector on the other end of the pump wiring so that you can plug each pump into the wiring harness. Don't worry about what is labelled on the harness. You can trance back the labelled wires on the 6-pin end to sort out which wires go to which pump.

Note: after posting this I ended up remounting my pumps 90 degrees so that the access plate faces forward (or backwards for the bow ballast pump). This was due to advice received so that the pumps could be easily accessed for maintenance.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:12 PM
Time to drill a hole in your perfectly good boat

This is pretty standard, but was new to me. I marked off locations on the bottom of the the hull and inside with painters tape. I chose to put my thru-hull behind the thru-hull used for the existing front hard tank (starboard pickup, behind the raw water intake). The hole I drill is 6" on center from the intake for the front hard tank. I drilled a pilot hole and it was maybe 1/4" from where I wanted so just continued with the pilot hole. Wear a long sleeved shirt for this. After your pilot hole start your hole with the drill in reverse to carefully get through the gel coat. Then drill your hole. Chamfer the edges 45 degrees with sandpaper to prevent your gel coat from cracking later. Then clean it all up with mineral spirits.

You'll need 2 people to put the thru-hull fitting in place. Put plenty of fast cure 3M 5200 adhesive around the valve base and also a bead around the pickup (white part that goes through the hull). I put the intake through the hull first and then started screwing in the valve assembly. Once you've got it threaded push the valve assembly onto the hull with the barbs facing towards the stern. Have person #2 hold this (preventing it from rotating) while you go under the boat and screw in the intake. I used a 1" spade bit to turn the intake, slotted between the slats of the intake grill.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:13 PM
If you don't have a heat gun go get one. Do not attempt this without one. You will hate yourself.

No pictures yet, I was too busy getting work done, but this is what I did. On my 2012 X2 the port side dual port thru-hull feeds both the stock rear hard tanks. The bottom port feeds the starboard tank and the top port feeds the port tank. I removed the hose from the bottom port and relocated it to the top port of the new starboard thru-hull. This required some hose wrangling but I preferred to not have both 455lb sacs feeding off the same port. After attaching this I ran hose from the top port of each thru-hull and up to the bottom of the re-mounted new pumps. I ran hose from the top of each remounted new pump back over the HDPE panel the pump was mounted to and then under the panel that separates the v-locker space from the space adjacent to the transom hull. I attached the each bag with a straight W741 fitting here. Side note: with the new starboard side thru-hull and hoses take care not to have them interfere with the bilge pump or rudder cable, both of which are located on the starboard side.

Next I replumbed the vents on both sides with wye fittings so that the bags and tanks could share the same vent. I found it much easier to remove all the old hoses and pre-attach hoses to the wye fitting cut to length. The wye fitting is a pain to get the hose on so this worked well without having to be in cramped quarters. Getting this installed on the port side was pretty straightforward. The 1" tubing fits over the side vent and tank vent easily but you should heat the hose before attaching and then use ring clamps to get a good seal. The starboard side was a complete pain in the @$$. I had to basically stand on my head to get the old vent drain off and attach the new one. When it was all done I used W746 fittings for the top of the bags with the vent lines.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:14 PM
So I was originally hoping to run a new line under the floor and put a T when it got to the forward compartment. But when I started working on this I saw there was no way this was going to work without tearing the boat apart. So what I ended up doing is was drill a hole through the HDPE panel by the Perko switch to pass the ballast hose through, putting an elbow there and then running the hose through the port side locker and by the batteries. I attached this to the port side Sumo Seat Sac with a W746 fitting. From the vent on this sac I used another W746 fitting and ran hose up and over the HDPE dividers on the bow compartment to the Sumo Seat Sac on the starboard side. I connected this with another W746 fitting and then connected this with a wye fitting for the existing KGB tank vent. The vent fitting on the starboard Sac was a W741. I'll have to lake test this setup to see if it behaves the way that I want it to. I'm thinking that it won't drain correctly but I'll see what happens.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:15 PM
Time to check wiring connections and make sure everything works. But don't worry about pump polarity until you lake test.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:16 PM
Before and after

lentiman
06-09-2014, 02:16 PM
Before and after shots of the surf wake

Wakerider16
06-09-2014, 02:41 PM
ummm pictures... Thats what I came here for :)

lentiman
06-09-2014, 03:06 PM
Still a work in progress. Not to the plumbing parts yet, but have pics of the rest up to then. I'm trying to get them to upload.

Some pics uploaded. The server seems to be preventing me from uploading them all to quickly.

All pics for work done to date have been uploaded. Hopefully I'll have a chance to finish the rest this weekend.

lentiman
06-09-2014, 04:21 PM
Hey, if anyone can make me a new plate for my switch panel I'd like to talk to you.

scottsx2
06-09-2014, 09:02 PM
Very nice install! What size of sumo sacks are you running up front? I was considering the super sac'r hp3 for my boat as I have a light switch for my tower. Let me know what your fill/drain times are for bags and hard tanks when you get it completed

Quinten
06-10-2014, 08:59 AM
That's some nice write up :)

Looking forward to see the result :)

swatguy
06-12-2014, 12:25 PM
Nice write up. May I make 1 suggestion. You may want to orient your pumps sideways so you can access the impellars much more easily for issues and winterization. Having the impellar facing down makes it much more difficult to perform maintainance.

Wakerider16
06-12-2014, 12:39 PM
Like the pictures so far, and as others have said great write up!

lentiman
06-12-2014, 02:08 PM
My understanding was that having them face down eliminated the potential for water to get into the motor housing and ruin the pump motor.

Nice write up. May I make 1 suggestion. You may want to orient your pumps sideways so you can access the impellars much more easily for issues and winterization. Having the impellar facing down makes it much more difficult to perform maintainance.

BudmanV24
06-12-2014, 02:09 PM
am I missing something? Last picture I can see is the hole drille din the hull for he thru-hull fitting....

Aric'sX15
06-12-2014, 02:34 PM
Youre missing the nautique 210 pics I sent you lol

lentiman
06-12-2014, 03:21 PM
That's all I had time for last weekend. I'll finish the job Saturday, I hope.

am I missing something? Last picture I can see is the hole drille din the hull for he thru-hull fitting....

swatguy
06-12-2014, 03:33 PM
The orientation of the original pumps installed for MC was impellar on top but that proved to lead to failures for water getting into the motor when a leak sprung. If you rotate them 90 the water from the leak will still flow downward into the hull and not make it to the pump motor. If you don't mind the the extra contorting the way you have them mounted is perfectly fine. I just do all my own maintenance so it would be a pain for me to have to reach under on all my pumps like that. I would drop screws like crazy and finding them in the bilge is not fun. Those buggers disappear all the time and show up clogging my bilge pump from time to time ;)

lentiman
06-15-2014, 02:57 PM
swayguy, thanks for the advice. I thought about it and ended up remounting my pumps before making connections. The stock MC pumps are all mounted in this orientation for 2012+ and I think by now they've figured out how to mount them without adding to the failure rate. I like this setup better and won't have to dread checking or changing impellers in the future.

The orientation of the original pumps installed for MC was impellar on top but that proved to lead to failures for water getting into the motor when a leak sprung. If you rotate them 90 the water from the leak will still flow downward into the hull and not make it to the pump motor. If you don't mind the the extra contorting the way you have them mounted is perfectly fine. I just do all my own maintenance so it would be a pain for me to have to reach under on all my pumps like that. I would drop screws like crazy and finding them in the bilge is not fun. Those buggers disappear all the time and show up clogging my bilge pump from time to time ;)

Mastercraftdave
06-26-2014, 08:02 PM
I'm curious to know if this caused an additional power loading and voltage drop. I have the cables system now and I'm told it will cause to mush of a voltage drop to install three more pumps. This is route I want to go but I was told by the dealer it won't work. Can you please give me some more info on your setup and what you did. Did you have stock ballast? Do you have a screen?

Thanks

Nick
07-01-2014, 07:53 PM
I have a 2006 X2 with built in ballast. My concern is the KGB tank will fill but it does not want to empty. I'm not sure what port in the hull the discharge comes out? Also, the impellers are yellow, will the green impellers work more efficiently and faster? Just how much weight does the three tanks add anyway?