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Jeff d
06-06-2014, 08:55 PM
I had another thread on this subject but I figured it would be best to start a new write-up/How To thread.

If you feel like reading through the other thread it's here:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=60338

I struggled with random Medallion gauge and MDC issues for the last 4 years (Since I bought the boat). The tach would drop to 0 RPM while running and stop counting hours, the temp gauge would peg to 240+ degrees then go back to normal after a “reboot” (Super scary the first 2 times) then stopped working completely and the fuel gauge never worked right. All connections were triple checked and cleaned with no improvement. I never could gather enough concrete evidence to make me comfortable that it was definitively either the MDC or the gauges themselves even working through the Medallion troubleshooting guide. The MDC is about $290+ shipping and individual gauges that matched mine never really showed up on eBay and if they had they would have been used and still not necessarily “known good”. There were full sets available new from later year models for a few hundred bucks but there’s so much mystery around this electronic bus system that it was hard to know for sure if they’d work with the older MDC. Pretty much anyway I went on this would have been a bit of a gamble so I decided to go with the cheapest gamble of them all: Eliminate the middle man (The MDC) and go with an aftermarket set of analog gauges. I had heard anecdotal reports of this being a pretty easy project but hadn’t been able to find a write-up or anything.

Changing gauges in general is a bit of a painful process which will take around 2-3 hrs to complete even if you were swapping in OE gauges. Swapping in aftermarket analog gauges and eliminating the MDC adds about 45 mins to an hour to this job to re-work the wiring harness. So, it’s about a 3, maybe 4 hour job depending on your familiarity with dealing with such things.

So, here’s what worked for me. Some of this might be specific to the 1st gen Maristar 230 VRS/X-30 but it’s probably close on just about any of the boats of 2000-2005ish. The pre 2000 boats didn't have an MDC or Medallion gauges so, although I haven’t seen behind their dashes, we’re electrically duplicating the setup that the older boats would have.

Parts/Supplies:
-Set of analog gauges for standard American Marine senders. I chose Faria KTF001 which is a 6 gauge set of white faced gauges. I had no need for the speedometer as I have Perfect Pass but it’s cheaper to buy the set with the speedometer than to buy the 5 gauges I needed individually. I paid $172.12 shipped. Teleflex or any other brand should work just as well.
-5-6 waterproof heatshrink 1/4” female “quick connects”
-14-16 waterproof heatshink #10 ring terminals
-2 heatshrink butt splices
-Small zip ties
-1/4” heatshrink tube

Tools:
-Small socket set or wrench set for removing nuts on gauges. Sizes varied but 3/8” was the largest.
-Wire Cutters
-Crimpers
-Lighter to shrink the tubing/crimp connectors
-Multimeter (Optional but you probably want to check to make sure your boat’s wire colors and what not are the same as mine)

1) Disconnect the battery’s negative cable
2) Remove the gauge panel:
Lie under the dash looking up and get comfortable. You're about to contort your arms and work by feel for about 5-10 minutes while being very uncomfortable. Reach up into the cavity behind the gauges and feel around. You should be able to locate 8 wing nuts that are threaded onto studs on the back of the gauge panel. Look at the stud locations in step 4 to get an idea. Each will have a very tiny lock washer and a larger fender washer behind the wing nut. Try to grab them when you remove the nut but if things fall down in there you can retrieve them after the gauge panel is removed. After you have all 8 wing nuts removed you should be able to pull the gauge panel off with all of the gauges on it.

Alternatively you can first remove the whole vinyl coated fiberglass dash by removing those wing nuts but I found that that's much more of a pain vs. just reaching for the wing nuts if all you need to access is the gauges themselves. I’ve done this at least 4-5 times now.

3) Disconnect all gauges and check engine light and remove the gauge panel. These are all removable connectors so no need to cut anything yet.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112498&stc=1&d=1402101670
4) Swap your aftermarket gauges on the panel. This is pretty self-explanatory. The new tach had a little selector where I had to select the right position for an 8 cylinder engine.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112500&stc=1&d=1402101670
5) Cut off all of the 5 pin gauge connectors where the old gauges connected. This is the point of no return.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112499&stc=1&d=1402101670
6) Remove the yellow wire from the harness or just tape/heatshrink them and leave them in. This is the signal/bus wire and is no longer needed. I chose to remove it and “rebuild” the harness (More on that later)
7) Disconnect and remove the MDC. There are some short adapter pigtails for the 18 pin connector and the 5 pin connector. I just left those adapter pigtails on the MDC. If not using a speedometer plug or remove the pitot tube (unless you like wet feet/carpet)
8) Remove the plastic wire loom from the MDC harness
9) Pull the MDC and gauge harness up through the hole in the dash (Where the gauge panel normally resides)
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112501&stc=1&d=1402101665
10) Cut off the connector with the gray, pink, tan, light blue, etc wires (The upper one in the picture above). I'll refer to this as the "MDC Harness" from here on.
11) Extend the tan wire over to the temp gauge position
12) Extend the gray wire over to the tach position
13) Extend the light blue wire over to the oil pressure gauge position
14) Extend the pink wire over to the fuel gauge position
Note: On steps 10-13 there was way more wire in the factory harness than I would need. I did not need to add any additional wire for any of this project. The orange wire is not used. Cut it off/coil it up and tape or heat shrink it off so it doesn't ground out.
15) Cut off the gauge harness connector with the black/yellow stripe, red/white stripe, etc. wires on it (The lower one in the pic above). I'll refer to this as the "Gauge Harness" from here on.
16) Butt Splice the black wire (Ground) from the MDC harness to the black/yellow stripe wire from the Gauge Harness.
17) Butt splice the purple wire (Ignition switched +12v) from the MDC harness to the red/white stripe wire from the Gauge Harness.
Note: Steps 16 & 17 are necessary because with the MDC in place ground and ignition switched power were passed through the MDC. With that removed you need to re-complete those circuits. I had a few feet of extra wire between them that was removed during that process as the wire didn’t need to go down to the MDC on the kick plate and then back up to the gauges.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112502&stc=1&d=1402101665
18) Strip and crimp on a 1/4” female on each dark blue wire in the gauge harness. This is tied into the NAV light switch and is for the gauge face backlights. There were warnings on the gauges to not allow this wire to touch the sender signal wire so I opted to put heat shrink over the terminal itself to insulate it from adjacent terminals.
19) Crimp #10 ring terminals on each Black/Yellow Stripe (ground), Red/White Stripe (ignition switched power), and the appropriate signal wire for that gauge position (i.e. gray for tach, pink for fuel, tan for temp, light blue for oil pressure). The volt meter doesn’t have a “signal” wire just +, - and + for backlight
20) Clean up your harness and prepare to reinstall the gauges. I had to re-terminate power and tach signal for my Perfect Pass as those were previously spliced in further down the line. I put heat shrink over the speedo wires since I wasn't installing it and the PP doesn't use those.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112504&stc=1&d=1402101665
21) Connect all gauges per the instructions
22) Reconnect battery and test basic function
23) Close everything up by reversing the process in step 2

I tested by running it at home and all of my gauges work now except the fuel level. I apparently have a bad fuel level sender on top of everything else as when I test it with a multimeter it shows 270 ohms (i.e. very empty) regardless of fuel level (It’s supposed to be 33.5 ohms full and 240 ohms empty). I’ll be replacing that sender and I’ll hopefully be done with gauge issues for a few years. If nothing else at least this setup is 50% easier to troubleshoot without the MDC in the mix. It’s either the sender or the gauge now. With the MDC/Medallion setup with any “gauge” malfunction it could be the MDC, the gauge, the sender or even another gauge causing “noise on the bus”.

Technically this should work fine for the 2006+ newer boats too but with the billet and molded plastic dash panels you may have cosmetic issues making these look right. I’ll leave that up to some of you guys with the fancier boats to figure out. I’m also unsure if ballast gauges would come into play on those boats as well.

Although completely unrelated to the MDC my depth sounder was generally unreliable. I replaced it with a matching one in the process.

The look and feel of the gauges is of similar quality to the OE Medallion gauges. I think the overall look has been improved in the process for my particular boat. Now everything matches. I'll report back when I have the new sender installed and I've done an actual water test.

In the end it cost me about $185 with the terminals and what not (Not counting depth sounder or the broken fuel sender) to replace my 5 gauges. I likely can sell the unused speedometer and pitot kit to recoup some of that cost. That's over $100 cheaper than just the MDC or an old stock set of medallion gauges and certainly cheaper than gauges + MDC by a large margin.

Before:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112505&stc=1&d=1402101665

After:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112507&stc=1&d=1402101665

After with engine running and backlights on:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112506&stc=1&d=1402101665

This little guy was instrumental in making this project take as long as possible:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=112608&stc=1&d=1402330704

geordie-wake
06-07-2014, 01:28 PM
very informative thread which will prove useful when I get round to replacing mine, and they look great BTW

HRC
06-08-2014, 03:51 PM
Nice work. The new gauges look great.

supturb89
06-08-2014, 04:51 PM
Great job! If I'm ever working on the boat and my son catches wind of it he's always right there. I can't tell you how many times he's gotten in the way, but he does make it more enjoyable sometimes.

Jeff d
06-11-2014, 08:39 PM
Swapped in a new Wema 10" fuel level sender per a recommendation in a post from another member (eBay $35 shipped). Everything works now for the first time since I've owned the boat (4+ years)!

19_Skier
06-12-2014, 06:45 AM
great how-to write up and the final setup looks great. Enjoy the new/working gauges!

Jeff d
07-25-2014, 01:07 PM
I left it on eBay for a few weeks and finally sold the speedometer for $30. I thought I'd get more but that brings the total cost for the new gauges to $142.12 plus a few bucks for crimp connectors. That doesn't count the depth sounder but that system is unrelated to the MDC and wouldn't need replacement unless it happened to be bad too.

ac505
07-26-2014, 12:01 PM
Looks as if I am going to have to follow in your steps sometime soon. All the gauges packed in for about 30 mins then came back to life. Interestingly when cycling the ignition the gauges were twitching so my guess a duff gauge is causing all the others not to read. Intermittent problems are the worst to deal with, so I think my time is best spent updating to analogue. Winter project I think.

JohnnyB
07-27-2014, 09:41 AM
Questions on original setup...

Paddle wheel speedometer setup?

Did your tach have integrated depth guage?

Sent from my SCH-I435L using Tapatalk

Jeff d
07-27-2014, 09:58 AM
Questions on original setup...

Paddle wheel speedometer setup?

Did your tach have integrated depth guage?

Sent from my SCH-I435L using Tapatalk

No, it was a pitot speedometer. No integrated depth gauge. It was separate and didn't match from the factory.

JohnnyB
07-27-2014, 10:09 AM
Where did you find the color codes for MDC input such that you knew how to fan out to appropriate guages?

If I did the same, would likely go to GPS speedometer.

Very cool how-to that will benefit many.

Thanks.

Sent from my SCH-I435L using Tapatalk

Jeff d
07-27-2014, 10:16 AM
I found the wire colors in the MDC troubleshooting guide. It's covered in the other thread I linked in the OP.

ProStar Slalom
02-01-2015, 07:38 PM
We bought our '01 in 2007. In 2008 I had to replace the MDC box because I didn't know anything about "winterizing" it, and it was damaged by water from the speedo tubes. A couple of years later I had to replace the oil pressure gauge. Last season I was having issues with both the fuel gauge and the voltage gauge. It was probably the fuel gauge causing issues with the volt gauge...but hard to troubleshoot.

Anyway, followed Jeff's lead this weekend and replaced the entire set with analog gauges. I got the Faria gauge set shipped for about $130. Since I had an open spot where the "blank gauge" was, I added a Faria depth gauge while I was at it. All are working well. Thanks to Jeff for the great how-to write-up.

For anyone still dealing with Medallion, I have gauges for sale. All gauges are working fine, except for fuel and voltage...not sure about them.

Jeff d
02-01-2015, 07:53 PM
Noice! Did you have to replace the fuel level sender or did the original one work? I never definitely determined if my oe sender was bad or just non-standard/not compatible.

ProStar Slalom
02-01-2015, 08:01 PM
Noice! Did you have to replace the fuel level sender or did the original one work? I never definitely determined if my oe sender was bad or just non-standard/not compatible.

Jeff, my sender was bad as well. I assume the bad sender made for a bad signal to the fuel gauge...and for whatever reason was causing the voltage gauge to read bad as well. You can see on the medallion gauges that neither fuel nor voltage gauges would reset. Glad I'm done with them, and thanks again!

Jeff d
02-01-2015, 09:10 PM
Did you use an OE 3 wire solid state sender or a 2 wire mechanical sender?

Jayhawk
02-02-2015, 12:37 AM
We bought our '01 in 2007. In 2008 I had to replace the MDC box because I didn't know anything about "winterizing" it, and it was damaged by water from the speedo tubes. A couple of years later I had to replace the oil pressure gauge. Last season I was having issues with both the fuel gauge and the voltage gauge. It was probably the fuel gauge causing issues with the volt gauge...but hard to troubleshoot.

Anyway, followed Jeff's lead this weekend and replaced the entire set with analog gauges. I got the Faria gauge set shipped for about $130. Since I had an open spot where the "blank gauge" was, I added a Faria depth gauge while I was at it. All are working well. Thanks to Jeff for the great how-to write-up.

For anyone still dealing with Medallion, I have an MDC and gauges for sale. The MDC is fine, and has never had speedo tubes attached since I was worried about water damage. All gauges are working fine, except for fuel and voltage...not sure about them.

How much do you want for the MDC? Mine works fine, but it probably wouldn't hurt to have a spare.

76S&S
02-02-2015, 08:32 AM
Jeff D, great write-up. Not sure if I'm ready to tackle this yet as most of my gauges work, but do you still have your original tach? If so I may be interested if the part number matches mine.

Jeff d
02-02-2015, 09:00 AM
Jeff D, great write-up. Not sure if I'm ready to tackle this yet as most of my gauges work, but do you still have your original tach? If so I may be interested if the part number matches mine.

I have it but I wouldn't bother with it as it was one of the gauges that I had erratic behavior with.

76S&S
02-02-2015, 09:07 AM
10-4, thanks

ProStar Slalom
02-02-2015, 08:17 PM
Did you use an OE 3 wire solid state sender or a 2 wire mechanical sender?

I found an OE 3-wire on Ebay. Didn't want to mess with changing the wiring back there. Not many of these left; next one will be mechanical I'm sure.

Jeff d
02-02-2015, 09:05 PM
Ok, I guess mine was bad then. Good to know it will work with a standard gauge.

ProStar Slalom
02-13-2015, 06:41 PM
Ok, I guess mine was bad then. Good to know it will work with a standard gauge.

Follow-up. I thought I was good to go with OE 3-wire, but not so much. I was getting a signal to the gauge but only a small needle movement. Not sure why it wouldn't work since it's supposed to send the normal resistance range.

Anyway, switched to a 2-wire with a float and all is well. So for those who may be making the switch down the road...a 2-wire sender might need to be part of your plan.

Bohmer410
05-18-2015, 01:42 PM
Great Write-up!! Do you have any tips when reassembling the dash on, how to get to nuts back on the studs easily?

Jeff d
05-18-2015, 01:46 PM
Great Write-up!! Do you have any tips when reassembling the dash on, how to get to nuts back on the studs easily?

Not really. It's a pain. You have to be good at working by feel only.

Scot
06-19-2015, 01:03 AM
Great job. I sold my Stars and Stripes with good old analog gauges. Now dealing with medallion issues. Thinking of doing the same but will have to fabricate a new panel as my Sanger is set up for 5 inch gauges. (Sorry I'm a traitor to MC). My question is regarding the sending units. Sounds like the stock units are compatible with analog gauges maybe with the exception of fuel? I am so fed up with medallion. My tach is broken, only available through a dealership, and on back order. The other gauges work intermittently and you have to knock on the MDC every so often to get them to work. Connections are good, it's the unit itself. So unnecessary IMO.

Tsumi
06-19-2015, 02:09 AM
You would have to change out all of the gauges. All of them are fed with the digital signal from the MMDC, speedometer, RPM, oil pressure, temp, etc.

Oops, misread your post. Yeah, it seems like the stock sending units are fine. The fuel may or may not be fine, I think that has more to do with whether or not the fuel sender is functional or not. If it's still functional, I think it would be fine to continue using. If not, replace it with the float one.

Jeff d
06-19-2015, 08:00 AM
The jury is still out on the fuel level sender. The oem centroid senders that MC have a terrible reputation to begin with. I'm pretty certain that a couple of years before I did the MDC-extomy I connected an ohm meter up to my centroid sender and it worked just as expected in the standard range. At some point between then and when I did the gauge swap it seems to have failed. The guy on the Supra forum didn't mention that he needed a new fuel level sender.

In either case the bolt pattern on the tanks is pretty standardized across the board and a Wema SS sender can be had for as little as $35 shipped (depending on the length you need). I'd just factor that into your budget and buy it if you need it after testing with the original sender. The Wema does need shorter screws than the centroid though so be aware of that. If you run screws in there that are too long they'll blow out the bottoms of the little pockets cast in the plastic of the tank. Then you'll be more likely to have leaks when fuel sloshes around and splashes up on there.

CC2MC
07-15-2015, 06:07 PM
Jeff D, I noticed that the tach doesn't have the hour meter on there. What are you doing about that? I know PP has an hour meter on it, but it probably doesn't match up either, i'm guessing.

Jeff d
07-16-2015, 08:07 AM
Jeff D, I noticed that the tach doesn't have the hour meter on there. What are you doing about that? I know PP has an hour meter on it, but it probably doesn't match up either, i'm guessing.

Perfect pass has an hour meter and it can be synced up with actual hours. None of the tachs I've seen have provisions to roll them forward to match actual hours. Faria makes an identical tach to what I installed but with an hour meter but it's not available as part of a set. It would have cost quite a lot more to get the tach with the hour meter so I've opted just to use the one on my perfect pass.

paintpollz
07-20-2015, 07:07 PM
so what does the MDC actually do, besides cause issues for most people. And if you remove the MDC, what functions will you lose? I have a bad speedometer and a bad fuel gauge, but strangely enough the speed on the PP works fine. Thinking about making the switch with Jeff Ds nice writeup.

Jeff d
07-20-2015, 09:33 PM
It converts the standard variable resistance signals from the senders to a proprietary electronic bus signal to be processed by proprietary gauges. You don't lose any functionality if you replace the gauges with those that offer the same features of your existing gauges. I lost my tach hour meter in the process because I didn't want to spend the extra money to get a tach with an hour meter. I instead use the hour meter on my perfect pass (buried in the menus but it's there).

paintpollz
07-20-2015, 09:40 PM
It converts the standard variable resistance signals from the senders to a proprietary electronic bus signal to be processed by proprietary gauges. You don't lose any functionality if you replace the gauges with those that offer the same features of your existing gauges. I lost my tach hour meter in the process because I didn't want to spend the extra money to get a tach with an hour meter. I instead use the hour meter on my perfect pass (buried in the menus but it's there).

thank you jeff.

do you happen to know if my speedo will be plug and play with this? it shares the paddle wheel pickup with the PP. I'm assuming its just another harness to clip off behind the dash but I would like to double check. The reason why I'm contemplating this is my current regular speedo doesnt work, but my PP one does, not sure why. As you stated before its not really needed if you have the PP, but it just bugs the hell out of me that it is there and doesn't work. the fuel gauge is also funky and I know the sender is good, so I'm assuming my MDC is on its way out.

If all I have to do is order the gauges and new fuel sender, I think this is a great $250 fix and I'll be able to sleep knowing I've gotten rid of that MDC.

Jeff d
07-21-2015, 08:06 PM
I'm not sure on the paddle wheel. Does it currently go through the MDC? You'll have to get a paddle wheel compatible speedometer for sure since the ones included in most gauge sets are pitot pickup which work off water pressure rather than electrical impulses.

paintpollz
07-21-2015, 09:36 PM
I'm not sure on the paddle wheel. Does it currently go through the MDC? You'll have to get a paddle wheel compatible speedometer for sure since the ones included in most gauge sets are pitot pickup which work off water pressure rather than electrical impulses.

not sure if it goes thru the MDC. maybe someone else can chime in on that. I only assumed so because in your thread you mention a speedometer wire that you didn't use, obviously because you are running a GPS system. So my assumption was that wire was used on my system for both the PP and the regular speedo.

I'm willing to do this on a Saturday once the fall hits and document in this thread. Just trying to gather the BOM at the most reasonable cost.

paintpollz
07-28-2015, 10:43 PM
anyone know of an electronic speedo gauge for us paddle wheel guys? just cough up the $99 for the faria GPS one?

also, does anyone know if the factory paddle wheel speedo runs thru the MDC? I'm thinking it does since my PP gauge works (assuming it doesn't run thru the MDC) and the factory electronic speedo doesn't.

tommurtha
08-10-2015, 08:25 PM
Hi Neighbor, I'm in South Windsor. Your speedo failure probably is not mmdc related. My boat bought used had one not working and I had one delivered bad after the box was dropped. Have you unplugged and plugs the connection at the speedo.

paintpollz
08-11-2015, 09:49 PM
Hi Neighbor, I'm in South Windsor. Your speedo failure probably is not mmdc related. My boat bought used had one not working and I had one delivered bad after the box was dropped. Have you unplugged and plugs the connection at the speedo.

Hello there! negative on the unplugging and plugging. What is the purpose of unplugging the speedo? I'm assuming the connection to the speedo is fine although i admit i have not checked. It gauge sweeps and lights up, so I have no reason to believe that the connections are bad. That is why I was assuming that it was the signal that is coming out of the MMDC and not corrosion. I'm also assuming that the gauge actually does get a signal from the MMDC......

to be honest I don't even know how the speedo gauge works on this. I've been trying to figure this out for a while but no one seems to chime in.

Can someone on this forum confirm that the speedo gauge gets the signal from the MMDC? Because I know the PP picks up the signal direct from the same paddle wheel.

tommurtha
08-11-2015, 10:40 PM
If you remind me in case I forget I believe I have a spare speedo that I know works. I would be willing to let you borrow it to test with some collateral since I don't know you. My spares are in the Berkshires and I only go there on weekends. As for the connection I assumed you might have a bad wire in, there are 4, or maybe one pin is corroded . When I was having gauge issues Medallion sent me an MMDC troubleshoot procedure. You are welcome to it if you email me.

tommurtha
08-11-2015, 10:43 PM
What does gauge sweep mean/ Mine does not move on start up, either one. What is your failure mode? Not reading at all? Did it ever work?

paintpollz
08-17-2015, 04:00 PM
What does gauge sweep mean/ Mine does not move on start up, either one. What is your failure mode? Not reading at all? Did it ever work?

the gauge has never read since I bought the boat. It never moves up and down with the boat while under way. Occasionally it will read random fixed speeds, sometimes if you are looking at the right time you can watch it fall from 35mph ish to 0, but it acts as if it is picking up completely random signals from the MMDC.

The gauge sweep is at initial started, the gauges sweep from right to left.

Every other gauge is working in the boat. The fuel gauge sucks but everyone's fuel gauge sucks.

tommurtha
08-17-2015, 05:41 PM
Mine don't sweep but they all work. See email

paintpollz
08-19-2015, 07:52 AM
Perfect pass has an hour meter and it can be synced up with actual hours. None of the tachs I've seen have provisions to roll them forward to match actual hours. Faria makes an identical tach to what I installed but with an hour meter but it's not available as part of a set. It would have cost quite a lot more to get the tach with the hour meter so I've opted just to use the one on my perfect pass.

My PP is older and does not have an hour meter in it.

Can you even get a signal to an hour meter if you bypass the MMDC? I may pony up for the hour meter/tach combo.....

paintpollz
08-25-2015, 09:09 AM
My PP is older and does not have an hour meter in it.

Can you even get a signal to an hour meter if you bypass the MMDC? I may pony up for the hour meter/tach combo.....

bump on this question.

CruisinGA
08-25-2015, 09:31 AM
Any generic (not made for use with MMDC) tach with an hour meter can be made to work.
Just hook it to a battery before install to match current hours.

paintpollz
08-28-2015, 04:49 PM
Any generic (not made for use with MMDC) tach with an hour meter can be made to work.
Just hook it to a battery before install to match current hours.

Looks like I'm going to need about 25 days on a battery. better get moving.

thanks cruisinGA.