Just ordered

[baedriver]

I ordered a 06 197 mcx with the 1to1 tranny PP heater, shower! Can't wait these boats are sweet. I noticed someone said the mcx is not an aluminum block(excuse the spelling). Is it cast Iron? What kind of break in period do you recommend. Can you pull skiers? This is going to be a long winter. Excellent website you guys have great information.

[Ric]

welcome and congrats!!!!!!
I think only the heads and manifolds are aluminum in the MCX but there are better experts here than me of course.
ummm yes, you can pull skiers with a 197 ;)
oohhhhhh, you meant during break in?

[vegashomeexpert]

I ordered a 06 197 mcx with the 1to1 tranny PP heater, shower! Can't wait these boats are sweet. I noticed someone said the mcx is not an aluminum block(excuse the spelling). Is it cast Iron? What kind of break in period do you recommend. Can you pull skiers? This is going to be a long winter. Excellent website you guys have great information.
Just recently memorized my owners manual :D . It gives very specific instructions on break in. Mine did not say specifiically not to ski, but if you follow the rpm rules and their cautions about torque, you basically can't ski for at least the first 10 hours (probably 20).

[PendO]

think I took my first pull at 7 or so hrs, can't remember for sure, it got put away with appx 11 the other day:(

[milkmania]

I ordered a 06 197 mcx with the 1to1 tranny PP heater, shower! Can't wait these boats are sweet. I noticed someone said the mcx is not an aluminum block(excuse the spelling). Is it cast Iron? What kind of break in period do you recommend. Can you pull skiers? This is going to be a long winter. Excellent website you guys have great information.


welcome to the board:)


and yes, you are going to see that statement (above in red) many many times ove the next few months:(

[Ric]

think I took my first pull at 7 or so hrs, can't remember for sure, it got put away with appx 11 the other day:(
your warranty is void

[Ski-A-Rees]

You know it's funny you say that about break in periods because about two years ago are ski team did a road show at this marina that was reopening. We came up with all of are skis and ropes and used there boats basicly to show the public what there inboards were capeable of. Well they gave us two boats and both of them we well under 5 hours. One of them was a wakeboard boat and if you know anything about show skiing, you don't really use wakeboard boats. So they put in another boat which looked like they just took all the plastic off and we did three shows that day with brand spanking new boats. Human pyramids, barefoot, and boat-O's! Some break in period huh?

[Leroy]

The whole break in period is funny to me and has a lot of legend to it. I love my Honda's and the dealer says GO from the beginning, no break in required.....and 200k miles later the engine is fine.


So what goes on during those first 10 hours that is so critical with GM engines? Is it really to have an out RIC?

[RobertT]

Congrats!

There is no need to be concerned, by the time it gets warm enough to ski you should already have twelve hours on your boat.

As soon as the lake or river turns to slush, put it in. Grab your hottie, and a bottle of champagne and go for a spin with a blanket over you both. That should be good for 3 hours of perfect break-in.

Repeat until 12 hours.

Have fun!

[bigmac]

I ordered a 06 197 mcx with the 1to1 tranny PP heater, shower! Can't wait these boats are sweet. I noticed someone said the mcx is not an aluminum block(excuse the spelling). Is it cast Iron? What kind of break in period do you recommend. Can you pull skiers? This is going to be a long winter. Excellent website you guys have great information.

The MCX is a cast-iron GM short block, with cast iron Vortec heads. I believe the only major aluminum components are the ETX exhaust manifolds.

MasterCraft owner's manual will detail the break-in period specified by Indmar. There's a lot of voodoo surrounding the necessity of the break-in period. Probably the best reason to follow their recommendations is that failure to do so MIGHT void the 3 year warranty. Of course, every third line in the owner's manual specifies something that might void the warranty... :rolleyes:

[Ric]

The whole break in period is funny to me and has a lot of legend to it. I love my Honda's and the dealer says GO from the beginning, no break in required.....and 200k miles later the engine is fine.


So what goes on during those first 10 hours that is so critical with GM engines? Is it really to have an out RIC?
hell I dont know, my post was in jest fellas :D I go thru no specific breakin period on my gm vehicles so I dont know why boats would be different. (boats run more constant rpms? Boats run farrrr less hours? boats are open loop systems?) Just a few I could come up with

you will never get the same answer twice regarding breakin and that's no joke.
I'll defer to mymc, but how on earth would a warranty guy be able to tell anyway?

For the record, I followed the Mastercraft manual breakin instructions to the letter

[east tx skier]

The whole break in period is funny to me and has a lot of legend to it. I love my Honda's and the dealer says GO from the beginning, no break in required.....and 200k miles later the engine is fine.


So what goes on during those first 10 hours that is so critical with GM engines? Is it really to have an out RIC?

My Honda dealer told me to break in the Honda by varying the rpms. In other words, if you're on the highway, don't hit your cruise control and forget about it for half and hour. Bought my second Accord used with 110K miles on her. Runs like a top.

[fskof]

You cant compare a car to a boat. You have to remember that when driving a car you have wheels, you are going down hills and coasting alot and that puts on no strain to the engine now with a boat you are plowing water there is no coasting and if you are going down hill you better hold on tight because you just went down a waterfall.
There is much more strain on a boat motor then a car motor.
Try this- deflate your car tires, add a plow to your car and see howmuch stress you will put on to your motor.

[east tx skier]

I'll try it over lunch.

Main difference, as I see it, is you're either at idle or at 3K+ rpm in a ski boat. But I'm not doing near the maintenance on my honda that I'm doing on my MC either.

[rodltg2]

if you have to wait till 10 hours , how are you soppposed to ski the boat before buying brand new. i dont think TT members wait 10 hours before it pulls tournament.

[Ric]

if you have to wait till 10 hours , how are you soppposed to ski the boat before buying brand new. i dont think TT members wait 10 hours before it pulls tournament.
6balls does the break-in.

[rodltg2]

6balls does the break-in.

exactly, i bet promo boats with zero hours, get dunked in the lake , set the perfect pass and go!

[fskof]

exactly, i bet promo boats with zero hours, get dunked in the lake , set the perfect pass and go!


Thats why they get replace everyyear

[rodltg2]

Thats why they get replace everyyear

actually its not, they need to promote the new model.

[Ric]

exactly, i bet promo boats with zero hours, get dunked in the lake , set the perfect pass and go!
you mean babblyboo promo boats don't you?

All bs aside, the promo owners I've seen are more meticulous about maintenance and appearance since they want to be able to sell the boat at the end of the season.....

[Workin' 4 Toys]

The whole break in period is funny to me and has a lot of legend to it. I love my Honda's and the dealer says GO from the beginning, no break in required.....and 200k miles later the engine is fine.

Yeah, but what does the Lexus owners manual say?

I would as a personal rule more than in writing rule, take it easy for awhile. Even first time out on the water for the season. we will do a slow cruise, get the juices flowing again slowly. After an hour or so, let her rip. Same goes for about anything I have. Lawnmowers, edgers, snowmobiles, cars, trucks, R/C vehicles. Sort of like an unwritten personal rule. Now about 10 hours before being able to use it. I doubt it, they'd have to write me off as void I guess, I's probably do 9 1/2 on the next one.... ;) That last 1/2 hour would kill me.....

[Jim]

The whole break-in thing was just brutal. Sooo glad I'm done with that!

[88 PS190]

break-ins make perfect sense. also post break-in I like cutting apart the oil filter that was on it to look at all the bits and pieces that have circulated out. Try putting a magnet to those and guess where all that sluff comes from.

As for hondas, lots of aluminum, which wears in faster, and also there is probably a period in the construction of the car where the engines are test started, plus cars get started to be moved onto trailers and around the car lot. Boats just get dragged about. Those would all contribute to less need to break it in.

All I know is after running over the rpm range and not up to high throttles for awhile it is nice when you finally pop that throttle, no matter if it is a boat or a car.

Although, you could probably pull kneeboarders and the like.

[SKI*MC]

Congrats on your new purchase! Get some Pictures in here as soon as possible!

[darkbrown]

I think fskof pretty much hit it on the nose. The MC engine is always under load so you really can't compare it to a car. I ran mine pretty easy for the first 10 hours (although initial fire up I handled differently), cut the filter apart, changed the oil, and romped on it. Properly clearanced engines shouldn't need too much time for all the pieces to figure out how to work together. The biggest concern with the Chev. small block is the camshaft. Remember this engine was first designed for 1955 production, and although materials have changed, the design is very similar to a small valve, low rpm, 265 V8. By design the oiling system feeds the cam and valve train last, so that (especially with flat tappet lifters) combined with the exhaust passage crossover in the heads (initial heat), the dry cam lobes experience greatest wear.
Cylinder glazing is not much of a concern with FI engines, and bearing seat should be acomplished in the first hour or two.
I run an additive (STP) in my engines, the film it leaves on the cam seems to protect it on startup, and we see greatly reduced wear upon teardown.

[bigmac]

Ya gotta hand it to Andy Granatelli....master marketer.

No offense meant by any of this, but the oil additive market is just one big consumer rip-off. The first iteration of STP was nothing more than a can of viscosity index improver that they bought from Lubrizol and canned/sold virtually unmodified. It was irrelevant then, and is even more so now with improved catalytic refining and better base oils.

The "decreased wear" claims of virtually ALL of the aftermarket oil additives have been debunked time and time again by petroleum engineers, the API, consumer groups, and the Federal Trade Commission, whose FIRST lawsuit and subsequent fine for oil-additive deceptive advertising was against the STP Corp in 1978. The third and most recent sanction was in 1995 and the subject of that lawsuit IIRC was the "reduced engine wear at startup" claim that STP was making. (ftc.gov) (http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/12/stp.htm)

The current rage in oil additives is PTFE (Teflon) and various zinc compounds. Since those compounds won't "plate" anything except at higher temps than an engine will ever reach, all they do is stay in suspension and clog oil strainer screens and filters. The laughable part is keeping that stuff in suspension (the opposite of what they claim to do) is even augmented by the other major component of such additives - detergent.

Sorry for the rant...STP has been a standing joke in the lubricant industry for over 30 years.

[stevo137]

Mac, PTFE is not a good additive? :confused:

[bigmac]

Mac, PTFE is not a good additive? :confused:

First article that came up in my google search... (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm)

...sums things up nicely IMHO.

[stevo137]

Good article Mac. It's obvious that compounds containing solids in the average particle size such as PTFE could cause problems when filtration is involved.
It does make me wonder if it warrants further testing at smaller particle size though.
Hats off to DuPont for having the ethical standards to not just give in to sell more product.
Once again, they find other companies trying to sell an inferior copy of a very successful product...

[Jim]

First article that came up in my google search... (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm)

...sums things up nicely IMHO.

Could'nt have been stated better. Great article Mac!

[Farmer Ted]

First article that came up in my google search... (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm)

...sums things up nicely IMHO.


bigmac,

what's the scoop on this stuff?


http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/synthetic_stabilizer.pdf

[bigmac]

bigmac,

what's the scoop on this stuff?


http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/synthetic_stabilizer.pdf


Same category as all the other consumer oil additives IMHO. The reason this stuff sells at all was best described by P.T. Barnum...

The lubricant industry is VERY organized, VERY profitable, and VERY aggressive marketers. Ya gotta ask why, if this kind of stuff is so good, they aren't putting it in their oil themselves and charging extra, or marketing it separately under their own name? Or why the automanufacturers, who set oil performance specifications, aren't spec'ing this stuff when they submit oil performance requirements to the API.

The oil industry isn't much like other industries. To be sellable, lubricants have to meet rigidly controlled quality standards as set forth by auto manufacturers and rigidly controlled testing procedures spec'd by the American Petroleum Insititute (API). They CAN'T get by with a substandard product, and virtually all oils (within each category) are the same - literally not a WHIT of difference between them that your car/boat/snowmobile/lawnmower can manifest.

[Farmer Ted]

Same category as all the other consumer oil additives IMHO. The reason this stuff sells at all was best described by P.T. Barnum...

The lubricant industry is VERY organized, VERY profitable, and VERY aggressive marketers. Ya gotta ask why, if this kind of stuff is so good, they aren't putting it in their oil themselves and charging extra, or marketing it separately under their own name? Or why the automanufacturers, who set oil performance specifications, aren't spec'ing this stuff when they submit oil performance requirements to the API.

The oil industry isn't much like other industries. To be sellable, lubricants have to meet rigidly controlled quality standards as set forth by auto manufacturers and rigidly controlled testing procedures spec'd by the American Petroleum Insititute (API). They CAN'T get by with a substandard product, and virtually all oils (within each category) are the same - literally not a WHIT of difference between them that your car/boat/snowmobile/lawnmower can manifest.


Figures, but it looks good on the little demo of gears they have at Auto Zone doing a side by side with regular motor oil.

[bigmac]

Figures, but it looks good on the little demo of gears they have at Auto Zone doing a side by side with regular motor oil.

I always liked the engine that ran for 20 hours without any oil, and I also really like David Copperfield.

[Workin' 4 Toys]

Figures, but it looks good on the little demo of gears they have at Auto Zone doing a side by side with regular motor oil.
Yes, and you should get a set, set it in the freezer for an hour, then try it. See what happens. Nice and sticky goey stuff. I'd bet I could get soap to do the same demostration.......Hmmm....

[bigmac]

The lubricant industry is VERY organized, VERY profitable, and VERY aggressive marketers. Ya gotta ask why, if this kind of stuff is so good, they aren't putting it in their oil themselves and charging extra, or marketing it separately under their own name? Or why the automanufacturers, who set oil performance specifications, aren't spec'ing this stuff when they submit oil performance requirements to the API.



There are HUGE dollars at stake, here.The auto industry is on the hook for millions of dollars in warranty claims every year. They spend a fortune on investigation of lubricant performance in their drive trains, and if they thought, even for the briefest second, that requiring some kind of oil additive would do anything for their vehicles, you'd see it reflected in the very next API service classification. Yet you've never seen any automobile manufacturer endorse or require any kind of oil additive for their vehicles.

[PendO]

So ... what about Techron ... just a gimmick?

Also, does Indmar test each engine for a while before sending to M/C?


Same category as all the other consumer oil additives IMHO. The reason this stuff sells at all was best described by P.T. Barnum...

The lubricant industry is VERY organized, VERY profitable, and VERY aggressive marketers. Ya gotta ask why, if this kind of stuff is so good, they aren't putting it in their oil themselves and charging extra, or marketing it separately under their own name? Or why the automanufacturers, who set oil performance specifications, aren't spec'ing this stuff when they submit oil performance requirements to the API.

The oil industry isn't much like other industries. To be sellable, lubricants have to meet rigidly controlled quality standards as set forth by auto manufacturers and rigidly controlled testing procedures spec'd by the American Petroleum Insititute (API). They CAN'T get by with a substandard product, and virtually all oils (within each category) are the same - literally not a WHIT of difference between them that your car/boat/snowmobile/lawnmower can manifest.

[PendO]

Sorry for the threadjack ... congrats on the order, with an 06 just broken-in, in time to put away for the winter:(, you are going to love it! What color scheme did you go with?

[Leroy]

Great article! I rememeber a similar, but great article about recycled oil being as good as new oil.



First article that came up in my google search... (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm)

...sums things up nicely IMHO.

[Workin' 4 Toys]

So ... what about Techron ... just a gimmick?

Also, does Indmar test each engine for a while before sending to M/C?
I assume you are talking the fuel additive.
I personally recommend its use. I use it, and have never had injector issues with anything I have ever used it in. I have a two friends that are techs and GM dealers, and that's what they use. (It's the same as the GM product with a different label, and about $10.00 a bottle less)
I even bought a used engine with clogged injectors. With the use of the Chevron w/ techron never had the problem again. I "manually" cleaned the injectors, and reused the once clogged ones, never had an issue again.
I am sure it too is the same as alot of differently labeled products, but it saved me a few hundred bucks. So I am a believer.

[bigmac]

So ... what about Techron ... just a gimmick?

Also, does Indmar test each engine for a while before sending to M/C?



I don't know anything about gasoline additives, but here's what little I do know. http://mccollister.info/gifs/school.gif There are basically two categories - the additive packages that go in at the time the gasoline is blended, and the ones that line shelf after shelf at Autozone and that they hawk at Rapid Oil Change.

Almost all of the oil and gasoline additive packages in the US come from Lubrizol Corporation - a kind of revered, legendary name in the oil business. They will formulate, manufacture, and custom blend all the additives that an oil company wants for their fuels or lubricants into an "additive package" and ship it to the oil company for adding to the base stock being used at blending. These additive packages are all very similar in each category, lubricants or fuels. In the case of oil, things are very rigid - the specs that they all have to meet are extensive and quite well defined by the auto industry. In the case of fuels like gasoline, the only driving forces are regulatory agencies like the EPA and CARB, and they aren't nearly as detailed in their requirements as, say, General Motors or Ford. So theres a lot more variability in gasoline performance than in oil performance. Techron is some kind of chemical designed to control engine combustion deposits. That's especially important these days when so many vehicles are fuel injected - injectors are susceptible to getting plugged up by those deposits. All gasolines have this deposit control to some exent, but they were never actually required in fuels by the EPA until 1995, and even then there can be a lot of variability in how much of the stuff is needed. Some cheap gasolines will have the minimum amount to keep the cost down.

Because gasoline has a much wider variability in some of these additives, aftermarket fuel additives aren't necessarily the same scam that oil additives are. Adding a "fuel injector cleaner" like Techron to your gas tank every so often is a good idea.

Personally, I use GM's "Top Engine Cleaner" periodically which I buy at the GM parts counter, and which my petroleum chemist buddies tell me is the best. I started using that stuff back in 1979 - back when there was ZERO combustion deposit chemical in gasoline. I had a 280Z that would hack and cough about every 7th or 8th tank of gasoline from plugged injectors (poor intern buying cheap gasoline, I guess). The problem wasn't well recognized then and the dealer must have replaced 3 sets of injectors on warranty on that car before the Datsun regional service guy stepped in and sent me over to GM to pick up some of that stuff. All gasolines have some kind of deposit control now, at least enough to prevent severe enough buildup that can cause pre-ignition. If you buy quality gasoline from a quality oil company, you probably wouldn't have an issue, but preventing pre-ignition and keeping your injectors flowing well are two different things, and I do use a fuel additive every so often, and Techron is probably as good as anything.

[BIGBADBLUE]

This is awesome information. Not something you would read in the daily newspaper. My buddy runs gas additive (STP) in hos boat to reduce the water in his gas. I have never had an issue with it missing and I know the gas we buy at the marina is not the high quality stuff. What is everyones thoughts on additives for water in the gas?

[88 PS190]

I personally use a dry gas product on occasion in winter to prevent fuel line freezes and such. These products are mainly methanol (an alcohol) which is missable w/ water and as such suspend the water in the gasoline and prevent frozen gas problems.

During the summer i've never had a problem w/ water in boat gas. Although fuel water seperators help to keep this at a minimum, and I pull those periodically through the summer to drain (put it into a clear container so that you can look to see how much water was in there. If it fills up the water will make it into your engine and cause poor running.

I think it is pointless to use such a product during summer if you are careful about not getting water into the tank. If you do experience poor running check the fuel filter and run a bottle, but otherwise you'll be fine.

[rodltg2]

one guy at the dealer told me that the fuel stabilzer may be causing the fuel pump failures. i dont know if he knew what he was talking about.

[bigmac]

This is awesome information. Not something you would read in the daily newspaper. My buddy runs gas additive (STP) in hos boat to reduce the water in his gas. I have never had an issue with it missing and I know the gas we buy at the marina is not the high quality stuff. What is everyones thoughts on additives for water in the gas?

Interesting issue. Most of the "water treatment" chemicals or "de-icers" are usually just isopropyl alcohol. The problem with straight gasoline is that it will only hold a very small amount of water in solution before phase separation occurs. Alcohol is soluble in gasoline and will hold substantially more water in solution than gasoline alone. Phase separation is bad because it means you might suck up a slug of water into your engine's fuel system. Theoretically, that could result in damage to connecting rods or crankshaft, but it practice this is very rare. Mostly, water in gas that has separated will just make your engine run like crap. It's probably more of a problem in a high performance - high RPM two-stroke engine like a snowmobile's. The downside to alcohol in gasoline is that the alcohol actually attracts water, so theoretically gasoline with alcohol will attract water to the fuel, but the good news is that it keeps it in solution. IOW, it kind of creates more of the problem that it's trying to solve. The real value of those kinds of chemicals is in preventing separated water from freezing (gas line freeze-up), which usually isn't a problem in a boat, but can be in a car or snowmobile. Personally, I wouldn't put the stuff in my boat - I'd rely on the on-board canister water separator instead. I go out of my way to put non-oxygenated premium in my boat (no ethanol), but that fuel is easy for me to find around here.

The other three problems with alcohol / water removers are that a) they are pretty strong detergents and will often release a lot of crap from the fuel tank and lines promoting clogging (not really a big problem if it's used regularly, b) alcohol will degrade some fittings and components (like rubber) in older engines. Not usually a problem in modern engines. And c) alcohols and ethers in fuels contain a lot more oxygen and a fuel injected engine computer has no way of knowing whether or not the fuel has that higher oxygen content (especially an open-loop EFI like is on our boats) - so the engine could be running leaner than is optimal. Again, probably not really a problem in practice in a 4 stroke V8.

STP has its All Season Water Remover, and also a variety of gas treatments. Most of the latter are cleaners like Techron for combustion deposits. I don't know about the "STP Water Remover" - I can't find a MSDS on it anywhere, so I'm guessing that it's some kind of alcohol or low-volatility ether.

[pflcjl]

What about this stuff called Sea Foam?? any good?

[Farmer Ted]

bigmac,

can we get a 3x5 on stabil?

I really enjoy reading your informative posts on this stuff!

Thanks for the info!~

[BIGBADBLUE]

Agreed. This is great information. Thanks bigmac for the posts!!! I think I will take Rod's approach and do not run it unless there is an issue. I was always worried as the 94 350 tbi does not have a water seperator stock or am I just totaly stupid and can not find it. Has anyone added one after market?

[martini]

And to bring us back on topic. I have found this method to be very effective. Every engine I have torn down and rebuilt was broken in this way and they have never had issues. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[bigmac]

bigmac,

can we get a 3x5 on stabil?

I really enjoy reading your informative posts on this stuff!

Thanks for the info!~Lots of voodoo in the fuel stablizer biz. The chemistry is really complex and I don't understand it well enough to really grasp the pros/cons of SeaFoam vs Stabil. The fuel "stabilizers" work two ways - by inhibiting oxidation of the fuel which contributes to gum and varnish, and by cleaning gum and varnish that already exists. SeaFoam is more of a cleaner than a stabilizer, Stabil is more of a stablizer than a cleaner, but both do both jobs to some extent, and AFAIK, for storage situations of less than a year, the performance is about the same. Some oxidation of stored fuel always takes place, but the break point is about 45-60 days - storage less than that and fuel stabilizer is of less benefit in terms of preventing gum and varnish. My impression is that using Stabil in storage concentrations impairs perfomance while it's running through the engine more than SeaFoam does and that Stabil's solvents tend to be harder on fuel system components like rubber. I don't think this is a big deal. Both will also help to control combustion deposits.

Stabil is naphthene-based (like Techron) whereas SeaFoam is isocyanate-based. I've never really understood the relative merits of the two chemical approaches, but I'm told that they are kind of six-of-one / half-dozen-of-the-other as fuel additives. My personal approach is to use either one for storage and I have used both over the years. I do note (this is my impression only) that I get a lot more coughing and smoking in the spring when first starting a Stabil-stablized boat, lawn mover or motorcycle than with SeaFoam. If I understand it correctly (and I certainly may not), the antioxidation process accomplished by Stabil impairs combustion more than SeaFoam.

Bottom line, personally, I think fuel stabilizers for storage are OK and I use either SeaFoam or Stabil, whichever I have sitting around. I don't use them on an ongoing basis during the season when they're being used, but if I were going to put a fuel additive in my boat during the summer, I'd use SeaFoam rather than Stabil.

[Kevin 89MC]

Bigmac, that is essentially what I have heard about them as well (although not in such detail-thanks!) Because I use my boat infrequently in the summer (sometimes once a week but sometimes it can sit for a month or two), I usually run a can of Sea Foam with every fill-up, and stabil at the last tank. I usually let the tank get to 1/4 or less, mainly because I like the feeling of (mostly) fresh gas. I fill up only 2-4 times in a year, so I think "old gas" can become an issue for me. It's used almost exclusively on a private lake, so I put on very few hours. I actually miss just cruising around sometimes! Now that the kids are getting older, I see more boating in my future!
FWIW, I run Stabil in the gas cans of all my small engines, motorcycle & "fun" car, and have been for the last few years. Before that, I'd occasionally have some driveability issues, but for the last few years, I have had no issues at all. Possibly coincidence, but I like to think the Stabil does help. Not to get too far off track, I do believe that running all my engines dry before off-season storage (except vehicles) is the big key.
OK, enough blabbering from me, just wanted to share my personal experience to this educational thread-jack!
Kevin

[the legend]

Its best to follow the break-in procedure, this allows the piston rings,pistons and cylinders to seat and wear in. Worst case -you void your warranty. Just so you guys know, the software we mechanics use to communicate w/ the ECM allows us to see exactly how many times you've started your boat all the way to how long you ran it @ certain rpm ranges. Just don't lie to your mechanic,he'll know. If any of you were @ the Double-up Del Noche you saw the red '06 X-Star pulling the event. That was not the original boat set up for that. I actually rigged it on Sat.(two days prior) Took it home and was only able to get three hours on it before the contest. That boat came back to the shop after the contest w/ only 9 hours on it. There was probably over 3000lbs of ballast in the boat. Indmar does a good job building tough engines.**Always break in your engine** Actual break in period lasts up to about 100hrs.

[the legend]

Sorry, some how I was off the topic. That's what happens when you chime in on your lunch break.

[PendO]

Its best to follow the break-in procedure, this allows the piston rings,pistons and cylinders to seat and wear in. Worst case -you void your warranty. Just so you guys know, the software we mechanics use to communicate w/ the ECM allows us to see exactly how many times you've started your boat all the way to how long you ran it @ certain rpm ranges. Just don't lie to your mechanic,he'll know. If any of you were @ the Double-up Del Noche you saw the red '06 X-Star pulling the event. That was not the original boat set up for that. I actually rigged it on Sat.(two days prior) Took it home and was only able to get three hours on it before the contest. That boat came back to the shop after the contest w/ only 9 hours on it. There was probably over 3000lbs of ballast in the boat. Indmar does a good job building tough engines.**Always break in your engine** Actual break in period lasts up to about 100hrs.

So, is the warranty void on that 06 since you ran it w/ only 3 hours of break in (Also, where in the manual is the disclaimer about anything being "voided") or do you just reset the ECM so that the guy who buys the promo boat never knows?

Part of my comment is toungue in cheek, but I would like to know ...

Come to think of it, I bet Rod would like to have looked at his ECM's history before the dreaded TT fiasco!

[rodltg2]

i dont think a proper break in period would have made any difference in the problems i had since they were electrical issues with the fuel pump and other minor stuff like broken coolant tank and snapped perfect pass cable. however my boat was used as the awsa approval boat at shortline lake. i dont know what kind of testing they do for that so i wonder if it wasnt properly broke in. i bought my boat with only 9 hours on it.

[the legend]

I've never had to void a warranty for anybody in nine years of servicing MCs,basically if there was a major engine failure during the break-in period(or any time during the warranty period) Mc and/or Indmar may request a data scan or eng history print up ,if the failure was in question. Based on those findings they have the option of voiding the warranty, or turning down the warranty claim. In the case of the '06 X-Star, our rep gave me the "order" to rig that boat for the contest, I did have concerns about putting the boat into service with such a huge load with practically no hours. I stood next to the Red Bull truck (in the water) during the whole contest bitting my nails and crossing my fingers that there would be no problems. Im happy to say the boat still runs perfect and is for sale with only a few more demo hours on it and a bit of wakeboarding history in it,history at least for us midwesterners

[the legend]

Im not familiar with the TT fiasco, care to clue me in?F.Y.I. As mechanics we do not have the ability to clear an ECM of engine hours.

[the legend]

To answer your question about the owner's manual stating the voiding of your warranty if break-in is not followed.Section 8-1, second paragraph in the '06 Owner's manual.

[rodltg2]

Im not familiar with the TT fiasco, care to clue me in?F.Y.I. As mechanics we do not have the ability to clear an ECM of engine hours.


sent you a pm/

[Scot]

You know it's funny you say that about break in periods because about two years ago are ski team did a road show at this marina that was reopening. We came up with all of are skis and ropes and used there boats basicly to show the public what there inboards were capeable of. Well they gave us two boats and both of them we well under 5 hours. One of them was a wakeboard boat and if you know anything about show skiing, you don't really use wakeboard boats. So they put in another boat which looked like they just took all the plastic off and we did three shows that day with brand spanking new boats. Human pyramids, barefoot, and boat-O's! Some break in period huh?

Oh yeah, and when this beautiful "show boat" goes up for sale with hardly any hours on it, some unsuspecting soul who thinks they are buying a professionally owned and maintained boat just got stung in the arse and never saw it coming. IMO break-in only means something if you plan on keeping it for hundreds of hours because that is when you start realizing problems. Unnecessary wear on all critical parts during poor break in can cuase strange problems that you just can't seem the figure out, like loss of power, burning oil, poor runability, etc.

If you are going to burn it and turn it, and don't care.... Let er rip! Why care! That is why it is important to do the best you can to buy from some anal retentive, who took great care of the boat, that would NEVER think of running it hard with nearly zero hours.... (Thanks Diesel..., BTW I meant that anal retentive thing in a good way)….
:twocents:

[PendO]

To answer your question about the owner's manual stating the voiding of your warranty if break-in is not followed.Section 8-1, second paragraph in the '06 Owner's manual.


Hey, if they fix pink seats out of warranty ... they will fix the boat ... plus the consumer protection laws would likely require an acknowlegement (signed) stating this consequence ... regardless, couldn't be happier with mine ... also, the hour meter runs with the key in it, so just put it in the garage the first night you get it and leave the key on and radio going ... then what (aside from a dead battery) :)

[the legend]

MC does extend themselves quite a bit for out of date warranty claims. Im no lawyer but I believe when you sign the warranty registration card you are acknowledging said warranty conditions.The hour meter now only clocks when the engine is in the "run mode" 300+ rpms.

[PendO]

Im no lawyer but I believe when you sign the warranty registration card you are acknowledging said warranty conditions

Swiss Cheese!

[bigmac]

Swiss Cheese!

I've never figured out break-in periods. I understand the concept about "mating surfaces" and wear-patterns, but there's a wide variation of opinions out there by some learned people - the engine manufacturer on one end to some smart automotive engineers and techs on the other end. I guess I tend to, at least, make an attempt at some kind of break-in that's at least in some proximity to the manufacturer's recommendations, figuring that a new boat/snowmobile/motorcycle/car is going to have more drag and friction after assembly due to variations in tolerances and the stiffness of running gear such as axles, shafts, belts, tracks etc. That must play some role, since I think it's clear that lugging an internal combustion engine is generally a bad thing.

As to MasterCraft warranties, I was a little put off reading the owner's manual that on almost every page there is some variation of the statement "if you don't do this, your warranty will be void". I certainly believe that MasterCraft bends over backwards to stand behind their product, and those frequent disclaimers appear to be distinctly at odds with the reality of MasterCraft's warranty attitude in practice.

[rodltg2]

you gotta cover your a$$

[baedriver]

Boat should be here in Late Jan I am pulling my teeth can't wait. I will post lots of pics thanks for the info.

[madmax]

Very good choice! I almost chose a 197 but ended with an X-7 2006 MCX . I love it. About the break-in, we didn't ski until about hour 5, but were able to try free slalom at 4000 rpm permitted in the manual. You will enjoy the wake for sure. Welcome again.

[the legend]

As far as the warranty issues go, MC has to cover their own ***, as do I as a tech.Im sure your all aware of the lawsuit MC had to deal with. In short, a kid was teak surfing, inhaled too much CO, kid passed out and sank to the bottom. I don't know if he died but his family tried to sue MC. MC has put warning decals on the transom and @ the driver's helm on the windshield. The kids father was driving and allowed this to happen not MC. NOw the decals are pictures of a human head w/ CO fumes around it, in case you can't read. The law-suit didn't go anywhere for the family. My point is my Chevy truck doesn't have a warning decal near the tail pipe, so I should beable to run my truck and hang-out by my tail pipe, right? Let's all do it and sue! Nevermind this post, Im a little miffed today.

[rodltg2]

if this is the case that happend here at folsom lake, the boat wasnt even an mc.

[Ric]

i dont think a proper break in period would have made any difference in the problems i had since they were electrical issues with the fuel pump and other minor stuff like broken coolant tank and snapped perfect pass cable. however my boat was used as the awsa approval boat at shortline lake. i dont know what kind of testing they do for that so i wonder if it wasnt properly broke in. i bought my boat with only 9 hours on it.
It's what happened during the 9hours that has me concerned. You've all seen that boatfull of Heineken pic, I'm sure :friday:



It's enought to drive you straight to a cute bottle of rum :rolleyes:

[PendO]

if this is the case that happend here at folsom lake, the boat wasnt even an mc.

Here is the article I found (http://www.boating-industry.com/output.cfm?id=1009045)

Regulatory Review
MasterCraft wins carbon monoxide lawsuit

Boating Industry
Friday September 16, 2005


Email this article to a friend!


VONORE, Tenn. – MasterCraft has successfully defended itself against a lawsuit involving carbon monoxide exposure, the company reported in a recent release.

The case centered on the design safety of MasterCraft’s boats, effectiveness of CO warnings and the responsibility of boat owners.

After hearing testimony from both sides, the jury unanimously decided that the MasterCraft boat was not defectively designed and that the warnings and owner’s manual effectively educated its owners, operators and passengers concerning the dangers of CO. MasterCraft said.

The undisputed verdict also confirmed the position of MasterCraft, the United States Coast Guard, National Association of State Boating Law Administrators and Water Ski Industry Association that teak surfing / platform dragging is an extremely dangerous activity and should not be engaged in under any circumstance.

“We let this case proceed to court out of principle and to validate all the work we do to promote safety,” said John Dorton, CEO and president of MasterCraft. “For years, we have led the industry in informing our public about proper boat operation because we want the MasterCraft experience to be fun and safe. The outcome of this case affirms we are doing a good job conveying that message.”