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gweaver
05-11-2014, 10:03 PM
OK, I've done a search through this section of the forum, and after doing the Pertronix upgrade, I know I need remove the ballast resistor, but I'd like a little clarification on how.
Here's what I'm dealing with:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VtFGrCqjAPs/U3AO3z-QeyI/AAAAAAAAC8U/ctoNo38Zun8/w506-h380/20140511_165713.jpg

On the left of the image, there are two orange wires. One is part of the wiring harness and disappears in to wire loom, the other goes to the coil negative.

On the right side of the resistor, there is a purple wire that goes to the electric choke (?) on the carb and a pink/red wire that's part of the harness. Like the orange wire above, it disappears in to split loom.

The Pertronix instructions say for my coil (1.5 ohm resistance), remove the ballast resistor. How do I do that? Do I remove the orange wire that connects to the coil, or do I remove all four wires from the resistor and connect them to each other? If I'm supposed to cut and splice, what are the new connections?

I did find this thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=24831&highlight=ballast+resistor) that suggests I can pull the wires from one side of the resistor and connect them to the other side, but after reading that thread, I'm still slightly unsure if I can just put all the wires on one side of the resistor.

Thanks,
Greg

Table Rocker
05-11-2014, 10:55 PM
The red/pink wire on the right is your running voltage source and will need to be connected to the positive side of your coil one way or another. Moving the wire that goes to the coil to the right side would accomplish what you want to do. That post on the resistor would serve as a terminal block, albeit a rather ugly one.

The orange wire that goes back into the loom is probably your ballast resistor bypass from the starter solenoid. You would need to tape it off and make sure it doesn't short to ground by accident.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-11-2014, 11:00 PM
Yes just connect all 4 together at ballast. 1 orange is for coil the other orange was used as a 12v during starting so it had a hotter coil while starting from the starter solenoid. You could probably just ignore the second orange wire. Or if you wanted you could simply add a wire between both posts essentially bypassing the resistor, so you don't have to mess with trying to tie 4 wires together.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-11-2014, 11:04 PM
^^ table rocker beat me to it lol

gweaver
05-11-2014, 11:05 PM
OK- I went out and removed some of the black silicone from the resistor. I don't know if it matters, but the two orange wires are connected to the same ring terminal. i.e. unless I cut one of the wires, if I move the wire that connects to coil negative to the other side of the resistor, the second wire (the possibly resistor bypass from starter solenoid) is going to get moved as well. Hope that makes sense.

On the other side of the resistor, both the purple and red/pink wires have their own ring terminals.

I'm prepared to move the orange wires to the other side of the resistor, because it makes sense in my mind (just bypassing the resistor), but I'd hate for things to go wrong at this point.

edit: so I'm going to just tie everything together on one resistor terminal. It'll look bad, but I'm going to leave the resistor in place for the time being. If I need to go back to points in an emergency, I'd like to be able to.

G

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-11-2014, 11:15 PM
Sounds like a plan.

gweaver
05-12-2014, 10:36 AM
OK, it's a done deal. I'll be water testing this coming weekend. Hopefully there are no unexpected surprises.
G