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View Full Version : Wiring Diagram for 2012+ Ballast Switches


lentiman
05-01-2014, 11:31 AM
I just placed and order for X2 bags and Jabsco pumps but discovered that I don't know how to correctly wire up the new Mastercraft switches to my new gear. I bought factory starboard, port, and center switches from MC to keep my additional ballast switches looking stock. However, these new switches only have 3 prongs in the back for connections. The switch itself can be set for fill or drain or can be centered. I've attached a pic of the ballast switches (center 3 switches). Can you help me with a wiring diagram for this project? Thanks.

lentiman
05-01-2014, 12:19 PM
So being a go getter I wonder if this solution would work:

This thread has a wiring diagram, can I sub in the 3 connection switch with the Carling switch as follows:

center connection to main breaker
top connection to relay 1
bottom connection to relay 2

But there's no ground so this wouldn't work, right? I'm lost here.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=40934

Also, couldn't I just buy the MC part on eBay below and wire it up accordingly? I think I'd just need to cut off and manually crimp the 6 position connection for the 3 ballast switches (2 connections per switch) and attached the ground (black) and positive (red) connections to the battery. It looks like the 2 position connectors are for each of the jabsco ballast switches but could be cut off if I can't find the matching female connections. Thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190567703780?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

bcd
05-01-2014, 02:16 PM
The 2012 switches actually go to a Lenco controller, not a relay, so don't use the factory wiring diagram as a reference. You need to send +12V to the center, and then the other two connections need to go to your two relays (fill and empty). The ground will be connected to the relay. The switch connects the +12V to the relay which completes the signal circuit, causing the magnetic field to pull the main circuit connection closed.

lentiman
05-01-2014, 02:49 PM
Feels wrong, but I have NO idea what right looks like. Thoughts? Got Visio? I'll send you the file.

wiring diagram removed: all wrong!

Jeff d
05-01-2014, 04:04 PM
You don't need ground to the switch unless it's an illuminated switch. I'm guessing it's not since you have only 3 pins. It looks like you have it right on the diagram you made but your relay pins aren't labeled so I can't tell for sure. Wire it up like the attached diagram but ignore pins 7 & 8 on the switch (Just go straight to pin 2 with +12v).


You don't need the mastercraft/jabsco box that you linked above with the timers and everything unless you want to really complicate things and make it perform worse due to the stupid "Artificial Intelligence" that many people go out of their way to remove.

Edit: Yes, you should have a breaker on the +12 volts prior to the switch and prior to your +12 volts split to the relays. Jabsco recommends a 20 amp on the pump breaker.
http://www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-CB41230-Resettable-Circuit/dp/B00144DDRI

To avoid problems I'd get waterproof relays. These worked well for the last 1.5 yrs in my friend's X2 (My boat has distinct drain/fill aerator pumps so I don't need relays for the ballast system):
http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-waterproof-5-pin-bosch-style-relay-spdt-30-40a-with-metal-bracket--330-079

These sockets make for a cleaner, easier wiring job vs. individual connectors for each pin:
http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-5-pin-relay-socket-for-bosch-type-relay--330-075

Jeff d
05-01-2014, 04:28 PM
And yes, you likely have a +12 volt bus bar under the dash. You can do the actual wiring several different ways to accomplish the same conceptual goal in the diagram.

There's minimal current draw on the + 12 volts going to the switch itself. All it's doing is "sending a signal" to the relays. So the thin wires in the diagram don't carry much current and can be small. You can pickup +12 volts from another accessory in the area that already has a breaker on it. Or you could run a new small gauge wire from the bus bar with a small (Maybe 5 amp) inline fuse (since it will likely never blow) to feed the switch and ultimately the #85 pins on the relays.

The wires going to pin 87 are where the heavy lifting is done. They need to be sufficient to carry 20+ amps (Gauge will depend on the overall length of the circuit) and should be protected with a breaker prior to where it splits off to the two relays. This could occasionally trip during normal operation so I'd recommend a resettable breaker instead of a fuse so you don't have to carry spare fuses and hunt for them if one blows.

lentiman
05-01-2014, 04:45 PM
Thanks for the wiring diagram! The eBay part I linked to is just a set of relays and breakers, it's exactly what I need and it's all put together already. No timers or anything. It's already wired up correctly, though I'll check before doing anything. I'll tie my new switches into the same 12V source that the existing switches are tied into. I've ordered Deutsch connectors for the pumps and the switches so I think it's going to just be a matter of digging around to run the wires correctly at this point. I'll just need a good place to tie in main 12v and ground for the relay box. When I get everything together I'll take pics of the install process.

And yes, you likely have a +12 volt bus bar under the dash. You can do the actual wiring several different ways to accomplish the same conceptual goal in the diagram.

There's minimal current draw on the + 12 volts going to the switch itself. All it's doing is "sending a signal" to the relays. So the thin wires in the diagram don't carry much current and can be small. You can pickup +12 volts from another accessory in the area that already has a breaker on it. Or you could run a new small gauge wire from the bus bar with a small (Maybe 5 amp) inline fuse (since it will likely never blow) to feed the switch and ultimately the #85 pins on the relays.

The wires going to pin 87 are where the heavy lifting is done. They need to be sufficient to carry 20+ amps (Gauge will depend on the overall length of the circuit) and should be protected with a breaker prior to where it splits off to the two relays. This could occasionally trip during normal operation so I'd recommend a resettable breaker instead of a fuse so you don't have to carry spare fuses and hunt for them if one blows.

Jeff d
05-01-2014, 04:47 PM
The eBay part I linked to is just a set of relays and breakers, it's exactly what I need and it's all put together already. No timers or anything.
Oh, I didn't look closely at it. The box itself looks identical to what they used to put the Jabsco AI modules in. Upon closer observation I see that it's got normal relays in there.

bcd
05-01-2014, 06:41 PM
Here is your diagram corrected. I'll give you some more information explaining what's going on a little bit later tonight to help you check your wiring. The push buttons on the box are the breakers for the relays. You will need to make sure that the +12V from the battery that you connect to the 3 switches has either a breaker or fuse to protect it. Otherwise you can add an inline one during your install.

CantRepeat
05-01-2014, 06:55 PM
I was going to suggest that a breaker should be added into that schematic.

bcd
05-01-2014, 07:42 PM
Here's a description of what's going on to help you understand and follow the wiring to make sure you connect everything correctly. I've never had one of the boxes you bought, so I don't know what connectors/pins are what. You'll have to follow everything from the relays to the connector to verify pin outs.

You'll need to connect a +12V supply to the switch, again make sure it has a breaker or fuse protection. If I remember correctly, you want that to go to the center pin on the switch. You can verify that by hooking up an ohm meter and measuring the resistance between the pins. Measure the resistance between the top and middle pin. It should read open. Flip the switch to the top position and verify that it closes (resistance should go to essentially 0). Now measure the resistance between the center and bottom pins. It should read open, and then read closed when you flip the switch to the bottom position.

Assuming that testing came out correct here's what happens: when you flip the switch to the top position, it connects the +12V to the relay signal wire (85). This flows a small current through the relay and into the ground (86). That current creates a magnetic field and pulls the relay to switch. The relay is normally closed to ground, which means the pump motor (30) is connected to ground (87a) when not powered. The magnetic field pulls the connection to switch to connect the pump motor (30) to +12V (87). Since the other relay isn't powered at the same time, it is still connected to ground, and the circuit is complete for current to flow through the motor.

Hope this helps. You'll have to sort the wiring out for one circuit, and then realize that there are 3 separate circuits - one for each pump.

Also, since you have separate pumps for the extra ballast, make sure you only fill the bags after the factory hard tanks are full. Full bags on empty hard tanks can cause them to fail.