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Ski MC
11-08-2005, 06:27 PM
With my boat (96 PS205) in for winterization this week, I was told by the dealer that both my water pumps are leaking, and should be replaced. One pump is $90 and the other $180, plus labor. I told them to hold off and that I might do it myself. Has anyone had experience changing either of the pumps? Any literature, or procedures available?

88 PS190
11-08-2005, 06:35 PM
Its fairly straight forward to do the work, much easier than on any automobile due to the lack of radiator, and the convienient seat, Only thing that really gets in the way at all should be the pylon.

If you get the parts and look at them a bit and then look at what's on your engine you should see what needs to happen. It'll mainly involve removing the pulley on the front of the engine (4 bolts) and then any periferals, then cleaning the seal area, and bolting it back together w/ a new one. I take it your raw water is leaking too, never worked on one but i'm sure its all simple bolt on stuff.

Last one I did was on my 91 BMW 318 and that was a pain, had to remove the fan, all sorts of belts and stuff. Much harder than on the front of a ski boat engine. And much easier than doing a Datson Z, where you will cut all your nuckles on the radiator and or the cooling fan before getting it done.

JimN
11-08-2005, 06:39 PM
The raw water pump has 3 bolts that hold it to the crank and one at the bottom that the bracket attaches to. Loosen the bottom one and the two on the block that secure the bracket. Remove the 3 on the crank and finish by removing the bottom one. There is a rubber sleeve on the bottom of the pump and you may need to put it on the new pump. Don't overtighten the small bolt on the bottom, it can snap off.

The circulation pump should be pretty straightforward, just by looking at everything connected to it. There should be 2 bolts holding the pump onto the heads and you'll need to clean the mating surfaces well before putting the new gaskets on. Get yourself some Permatex black gasket sealant(silicone) and don't overtighten the bolts going into the heads. IIRC, 30 ft-lb is the torque spec.

88 PS190
11-08-2005, 06:43 PM
Permatex Blue works better for water applications imo. The Black is formulated for oil.

JimN
11-08-2005, 07:34 PM
That may be, but these motors were assembled with black and it generally lasts the life of the boat. If it's not oil soluable, it won't usually dissolve in water, either. Personally, I like the Ultra Copper but anything other than black will show up unless it gets painted.

JDK
11-08-2005, 10:58 PM
Can't the shaft seal in the raw water pump be replaced for about $10.00?? As far as I can figure, this is the only place it can leak.
(....just asking)

88 PS190
11-09-2005, 01:18 AM
Really depends, Most water pumps i've seen leak once they start to wobble and wear at the bearing. And most I've dealt w/ require sending in for a rebuild. Never seen a seal for sale actually.

Love it if you find a link.

ski_500
11-09-2005, 07:20 AM
I replaced the seal & bearing of the raw water pump on my 88 Prostar at the beginning of the summer. Then one day after it got really windy and we were pounded by chop, the pump started to wobble (Possibly due to the amateur install job). So I just replaced the whole thing. It was $150 from SKIDIM. Installation is very straight forward just like JIMN described.

Tom023
11-09-2005, 08:13 AM
Mine was leaking and I just replaced the shaft seal and it works fine. All the pumps will have a bit of a wobble, but I was able to adjust mine on the bearings easily. After having the whole thing apart and off the bearings, I can't really see what would wear out that would require an entirely new pump, unless the impellor wore the housing out. Everything else looks replaceable.

88 PS190
11-09-2005, 12:23 PM
the raw water pump or the main engine water pump. The raw water I could see as being easier to replace the bearings and seal.

Tom023
11-09-2005, 01:40 PM
Raw water pump.

ski_500
11-23-2005, 01:34 PM
Tom,

My original bearing/seal replacement worked great for about 3 months. But when I saw how much it was suddenly wobbling and leaking I got concerned :eek3: about damage/excessive wear inside the pump.
ergo- new pump = peace of mind. :D

Sodar
04-15-2006, 01:27 PM
I just replaced my whole water pump today... I just pulled it out of the garage to test it and I have ALOT of wobble in it. What can I adjust to get the wobble out???

JimN
04-15-2006, 03:18 PM
Wobble meaning it's off center or the shaft is gyrating? Center the pump better on the crank.

Sodar
04-15-2006, 03:33 PM
Wobble meaning it's off center or the shaft is gyrating? Center the pump better on the crank.
The flange and shaft are spinning perfect with the crank, the pump housing is wobbling a lot though! It is a brand new pump... could I have gotten a bad one?

JimN
04-15-2006, 03:47 PM
Sounds like the shaft is bent, to me. Yeah, it could have been dropped in transit or ?

Sodar
04-15-2006, 03:53 PM
well, I just took everything apart and remounted it, but the same thing is happening. The wobble and vibration seems to disappear once I get to about 1,000rpm....